Hey guys and how's it going hey we're going to continue on this suzuki ds. 80. I think the years between, like a 90 and a 92, that i grabbed at a yard sale a couple weeks ago, uh 10 year old had it. You know i'm sure he had it when he was six also, but anyway it's been written well written.

I want to say well loved, but well written and put back together like a 10 year old could put a bike back together when things start to break off. So it's been an adventure, we were getting there on the first video we got the uh carb squared away the fuel system squared away the exhaust was ripped out of the head. Both studs were pulled out then re-drilled on an angle and drilled out again, so that kind of stuff was fixed, got an assessment on it. Had oil leak that we thought the case is actually leaking on and they ended up just tightening up the drain plug on the bottom and that stopped this leak.

So it's been sitting for a few days and nothing has dripped out of the bottom of it. So that has been taken. Care of the back wheel is a mess. It's uh.

It's probably the next thing that we should jump on to get this thing. Ridable a couple of things: the spacer between the two bearings is missing, so you can't tighten the axle down, because if you do it binds up on the bearings, so they didn't tighten the axle down. They ran it that way when they did that. The two keepers that keep the rear wheel in place is those guys they hold on to the axle and you have a adjustment nut.

They go here and here and you adjust the angle of the wheel and then you tighten the axle down. Well, if you don't tighten the axle down, because you can't, then it's all relying on these and as you can see it's supposed to be flat, it drew that right in and cocked the wheel, sideways and kind of chewed up some stuff. So we got ta fix that the bearings, i think are okay, the brake hub. There was no rear brakes hooked up to it and it is missing the lever.

It's missing. The bar that supports the drum from spinning the axle does not fit the space. That's in between there i'm not sure what went missing from that part of it. The spacers that were spacing the wheel out were just a bunch of different things.

There is a bearing here's, the little piece of nylon and there's a piece of steel. This one piece might be original, i don't think the other are. So, let's get the back wheel kind of squared away see if we can get a drive to the back tire fairly, decent, also we're not quite sure if that swing arm is racked enough. I think we're gon na do is we'll fix the back wheel.

First, we'll bolt it all back together and we'll see what kind of alignment we get with the chain. As long as that becomes straight, we should be good to go all right. Babbling, let's get the wrenching well! The first thing i think we should jump on is getting the spacer in the middle of the wheel, squared away, let's see if that'll sit in there, so we got to go punch out one of the bearings where it's right about and get an idea. What the depth is between the two of them so in between both of those bearings, we need a spacer, but the spacer has to be pretty exact to the size of the gap that's in between, because it has to tighten say this is the spacer it has To tighten on this inner race because the inner race sits still when the outer race keeps moving as the bike's rolling, so the spacer that's in between, we have to cut right to the right size.

I'd say we probably go down with a mic and a caliper. Rather, on the tail end, we'll run at the end, we're going to just kind of guess, as close as we can, with a probably a sharpie mark on it, we'll cut a little large and we'll trial, fit it we'll just kind of take a little bit off. So we get a nice fit. I'm sure there's a much better way to do this, but that's not working.

What we're gon na do we're gon na guestimate our way through this whole project, i'm gon na call it right there. So that's the gap. We need. Let's smidge more welcome to the metal horde somewhere in here.

We should find something that will fit the bill yeah. It looks like a little that's kind of easy that might actually, i think it might be too big, but as long as it touches on the the inner race, it'll be fine. Yes, i just want to make sure that i only touch on this inner race. I actually think that'll be just fine should work out for us.

You want to be hitting on the cage dragging on the cage, all right see what we get and if i screw it up, i even got another piece left over to go. Try yet all right. So we need all of this stuff together in a straight line. Let's do it.

Probably what you should do is take a measurement right there right now and see you know what let's go see. If there's any pressure on the yeah, it's got pressure on it. I can't push it out with pushing down on it. Let's we pop that right back out again, let's drop that in without the spacer see how far down it drives.

Oh, we got a lot to go all right, i'm going to sneak up on that, i'm going to go measure the difference between the two of those the higher and the lower, try and try to knock it off of here, get as close as we can without Going under new toy well, when it's 75 years old anyway, you're going the wrong way so go call that for a win, look to the four bolts for the sprocket are missing. It's got little keepers that you're supposed to go across and hold them from backing out. Let's go pull some out see what they look like is we're going to need more bolts that are that size that can't be good? Let's go see, we even have threads down in these two. If that's the case, we'll leave that one alone, if it doesn't want to move, let's go clean that up on a wire wheel.

First, it was the one across them all right, let's go try. What we'll do is we'll feed them in by hand we'll just kind of see what we got a feel for thread, see if anything boned out if it tightens up that one's good good dig up some of them. So out of all that closest, i found where those twos are slightly over, i'm going to cut them down to the right size and we're just using them, and i also found some metal strapping and whatnot. We need to make some kind of keeper, so the bolts don't want to back out.

So those are good. I was thinking about trying to make some metal straps. You know hammer them flat and make a tab going each one of them. You bend them up, so they won't turn, but that one i don't want to try to take it out.

I think we're going to snap it if we screw with it. I don't think it's going to move anywhere, the other three. What if we take, maybe like a fender washer and we'll notch the fender washer to the inner hub and then we'll bend over a lip on it, so each one could be independent of each other instead of having the one that's supposed to scab the two of Them i think, that'll work. Let's give it a try, see what happens.

Hopefully, one of these will do it there's three of the same size. Maybe those these are gon na, be too small right, not that we can't drill it, let's go screw with the ones that we have. These three see if they'll work for us that should do it for us use this to shave a little bit. So the washer can't turn you'll mark that with a sharpie i see we go about that's about what we need right there, i'm gon na go notch them on the grinder and something like that might have to take a little bit more off.

Let's go see actually as long as it bolts down right, that'll be good and we can kind of bend it over to stop it. Could've been a lot smaller too there's a joke there i'll go all the way right. I ain't backing off. It may be ugly but she's big boned yeah somebody's got to come apart anyway.

The sprocket's, all you know getting cooked, so teeth are leaning and wore off. So at some point that's gon na have to go come out of there, but at that point we'll deal with it then for now i think that'll stay just fine onward and hopefully upward. So that's what's inside the wheel, although the axle doesn't spin gives you an idea what will be in there. So it's supported in the hub - and this is the the section that's turning.

Everything else is stained still, but that gap has to be pretty damn close, because what happens is if i left it alone over time from the wheel, pushing back and forth, and the aluminum being stops being in a little bit further it'll start pounding itself to death And then the outside of race of the bearing will be loose in this surface. That's why it's got to be pretty close to no movement. Let's go put that together and we got to get the spacers figure out, what we're doing for spacers and the swing arm. So let's go start working on that getting the chain to track straight, but first so this goes in the frame.

It looks like the square part of the frame, and this is your jack screw for your holding your tension, the one that was on the chain side, which is where all the torque is, looks like. Either it probably broke this or is missing, and then they put a washer there and, as you see it kind of tucked its way into place, i'm gon na do my best to straighten this out. Get this apart. We'll fix this one up and then we'll put this one on the heavy load side, the one that's still got its original bits and pieces to it and we'll come up with something a little bit better supported for the other side, foreign so break it just make It stronger so there's mocked up on the bike with just about the wheel in there and our adjustments we'll cut this later once we know how much we need for adjustment actually, probably just run it all the way in and whatever the length is we'll nip them Still not uh sure that that swing arm is not tweaked to the side.

I do know it. This side has an extra kick out, probably for the sprocket, but this looks like it's a little bit too far that way we'll find out once you put the wheel on and see if it tracks with the uh sprite. As long as you get everything to go in a straight line and track it'll be fine, you know the bike, might it's a dirt bike, but before we go any further, this opening is way too sloppy on that axle like it's missing a bushing or something. So let's go try to make something: probably that will take up that space.

I think you can tighten down on everything. It'll keep the brake drum kind of square, but just seems like that. That's way too much, you know, although, like i said when you go to bolt it down it, it'll it'll probably lock the drum straight, but i don't want to rely on that. Let's go see if we can go find something to go.

Take up some of that gap, i got a thing of miscellaneous bushings. We could try if we go anywhere we'll take a quick look up here. This is where i do when i take something apart, i throw it over here. It doesn't even have to be brass.

Steel could be in that one. What's that take that that i think that first one probably looked better, though huh man, i think they're all the same, actually not too bad, that big one's going to be too much right. Yeah, let's go see what we get all right, it's gon na be a little over. Of course it is, i could take it down and lathe is that one to go get punched out yet i probably like to leave whatever is there there? It seems like it's got a aluminum to steel, pretty good fit on it, so i measured it out.

It's only 30 thou difference between the two of them. This is actually like a a split. I don't want to call it spacer. That's got to split down it, but if we take a cutting wheel, we just take a cut and we'll zip down.

There make a little bit more room, see if it'll just kind of crush up and fit in there, because it is got some play on the axle too so that'll take some of that out, see how it works out. Uh, oh yeah, right on the money. Awesome we'll cut the length that we need i'll run that flush i'll take one last look at the wheel, make sure there's nothing funky i'll run that flush and we'll just cut it off on the other side. So that surface in there would touch the bearing when it's in right.

Now, it's touching on the wheel, that's how it was actually no. I had a bearing in it. Let's go pop the bearing in we'll see where the height of this is. We can probably adjust this a little bit.

If we need a little bit of space, we can tap it down a little bit. That's just pretty good! There's a justin here, i'm gon na go a little go a little proud of that. A little more give me some a little bit more space. That's pretty good! That's about sixteenth! You mean eight about eighth of an inch away from robin, so we'll leave that as our space.

So i got rid of the the plastic bushings and bearings and crap they had on it. There's one heavy spacer is in, and i just left that length sticking out that we had to work with. It actually looks pretty good the chain's kind of crappy. I don't see a mining if anything, it could probably kick the tire.

Probably kick that way. Just a hair either that or like we said the swing arm is out a little bit, but i'm going to try eyeballing down the tire to the front wheel and see how we track him thing, get that lift out of our way. Again, it's a dirt bike. I don't think we're gon na have to get that picky with it, but we're trying to get as close as we can.

I got to make a spacer for the inside here, because this is going right into the inside of the frame. So i got to come up with like another washer or something for there to take up some space. I say next on the agenda is rear brakes. It's kind of tight, so there's drag on this arm.

We need to make this arm stop from turning when you hit the brakes. Something has to stop that energy from wanting to spin that brake drum and usually either keyed into the swing arm, or they have an arm that attaches from there to there, which is missing. But i have this parts wheel off of something i think it's a moped and we'll go. Take this out of here we'll see how this kind of lines up for this dimension.

Possibly you could use it and then we'll come up with a brake lever to come around and hook to the brake pedal. Well, we definitely got to throw a bend in it because it kicks that side pretty far. If we were to go, we could rotate this without changing its length. Actually, that's not too bad.

Let's see what we can do for putting a lever actually quite through the old bolts that came with this on it. There you go. We get that easy, so close, but so far in that lower section there there you go right same size. There we go so that can be the lower one and we could shorten this one up too.

I don't see why not why we can't redrill a hole we'll just work with what that bracket has for now. That's got to get opened up too we're going to drill through that it's got to offset. Can i do that? That's probably what i'm supposed to do right as long as it doesn't have play in it, and it's got a little because you don't want it to every time you hit the brakes to have a little bit of room to shift. I think what we'll do is i'll drill that out, how does that fit on there good yeah, all right, let's go see about getting some kind of lever up on here and going across and hook into this.

I just flipped it around. So the spacer is on the other side of it. Should we get us no play in the system forwarding back now. We need a brake lever to do something like that.

Let's go shopping. This is a parts bike for future chop it up of this. Let's go steal this rod, it's already got a spring and all the knuckle on it and then we'll steal this guy right here i don't know if that is going to be the same size, but we're going to go, find out, make it work. It doesn't wear we'll cleaned it up a little bit.

Let's see where that puts us in for a window there we go, you got to be out by the threads and how far does that pull before the brakes come on pretty far? Let me go sometimes these are keyed they'll, be like one tooth that is squared off, so you can't change position. There's a lot of people do that to cheat when the brakes are failing. Let's uh eyeball that i'm gon na go tap that on one location, see if we can find a happy spot for it and after everything's tightened up that should work out pretty good. I had to kind of bend the rod a little bit to clear this, which gives it a little bit of a springy action, but i don't think it's going to hurt anything.

I don't know if it was a straight shot before or not. I don't know how it could, because that that's the stock location on that side, unless this lever was super long or it curved, you know way down around here again that'll work, so the next thing we should probably screw with is the fact this is going to Hurt smack yourself with the vice grips at the end of the shifter is gone. It's not even there. So it looks like it got sloppy on there.

Then they drilled through it, because you can see a cavity right in the center of it the drill through it. I put a bolt through the shifter and then that warts way and snapped its end off and screwed it even further. So what are you gon na do to fix it? I think we're just going to hit it with heat and glue the two of them together with a welder, because this shaft is already shot. You'd have to take the motor apart and to change this out.

So i think we just go find a happy position that this will be comfortable for on our foot, we'll weld that on later on. If you go to go change, it you're just going to go, come back behind it and just cut it with a sawzall or a whiz wheel, and it's still the same thing: you're not hurting anything. I think that'll be your best bet. I probably should get this cover on and put everything on, because it's gon na be committed.

We're gon na commit when we go to uh put it together, so you guys go get that on there and hopefully maybe we could even leave it in a position where the covers is removable in case we have to get into here for something it's gon na. Be tight cause, it's got that arch right there, oh well i'd, say i'm gon na go, get rid of this and just put my foot up there see how it feels yeah, i figure with the kid's foot too. Is it gon na be too far forward? Guess you could always cut it and move it forward and weld it if you have to this bike, looks small on me: yeah, that's good! Let's just see if that cover can come off, it also probably get easier to get a little weld on it right now. Just barely okay, now i can get in there and zap it right down there.

I think we have everything done. That needs to be done, so it would mechanically ride other than hooking up a gas tank. So i think we can start chasing that stuff now getting into the the little bits, the plastics and the fenders, and that kind of thing i know she's got one good one here. The one on the other side is stripped out for the gas tank mount.

It's got a busted bolt got ta go deal with that air cleaner, set up yeah that one's busted in there probably try doing that out looks like somebody actually tried before us, so gas tank change the oil uh. I want to tighten that up. It's probably how the other side broke over there from that same reason, with sloppy left loose like that front, brake seems like it functions. Okay, i'm not gon na worry about that.

We'll leave that alone again when we test drive it we'll figure out. If there's any other things, clutch has some free play to it, and it does seem to work but again, we'll find out that later, when we go to ride it tires are going to run them like they are living on the edge. That's why i find some other ones that swap me all right. What are we doing gas tank so? Fortunately, a gas tank is plastic.

We don't have anything to deal with. As far as you know, rust, rust is concerned. I don't see anything any cracks or anything in it. That's obvious a little beat-up-ness inside a little bit of dirt down there on that side, too.

Good, it's got a valve on it on off valve, but it is missing the handles broken off of it. As long as it works, you might be able to turn that with pliers, i'm not sure or just leave it alone, we'll just leave it in the open position that it is right now and the mouth the gas tank. It has these two spots and that might be it might have just a strap that goes around. Sometimes you have a black strap that you pull over and you lock down on.

It might be something that was missing right here. Let's see if that'll move on us, it did some kind of weird turn. If somebody breaks off a bolt when they're tightening it, you have a fairly good chance of trying to get it out with easy up. Somebody breaks a bolt off when they're trying to back it out.

Usually, the threads are already so gummed up or rusted or corroded that, even if you, the reason why the ball broke in the first place is because it was jammed in the hole you put an easy out in it. You're not going gon na go get it. Let's go see what happens? Let's go tap one in there see if that'll go for us. Sometimes the reverse drill bits work too.

Let's see we get, i think we got it nice yeah so that got broke when it was getting tightened down, be sure they're. All that easy right yeah, we would have been there a while trying to drill through that one huh good. Now we know what size thread they are too. So we need two bolts uh, roughly that plus another half inch to go through those rubber grommets and probably some big washers for the outside come on come out.

Wherever you are, two volunteers actually went around a little bit of shopping, got a bunch of uh metric hardware. That's gon na be fitting for all the bits and pieces that everything that was tie wrapped on we're gon na need a bunch of stuff anyway. So let's go see how that works out for us. As far as these, they probably had a shoulder on them because that hole inside there is much bigger.

It would have looked something like that. Sorry, unfortunately, it's the wrong scale, but that's what we need to reproduce. So you could probably take a couple of bolts and i don't know, maybe we can get a nut that can fit. I don't know if we can get a nut that'll fit inside there of maybe a standard that we can drill the center through and use it as a spacer.

So we can come up with how about these nuts that should work, they're, probably going to take them down a little bit on the grinder, we'll make circles out of them on the outside. We'll use them for spacers might have to go too thick. Maybe the idea is, you want to be able to to bolt it? Have the bolt crush down on a spacer, but still have the gas tank have some room to go move around kind of think of like an engine on a motor mount same idea? You want to be able to have some flex with it. The the tank and flex around and move around, especially your knees, are whacking into it.

That kind of thing without cracking the tank, but yet not have the hardware want to go back out. So that's the whole idea. I guess behind that. So two of those make for us that's about just right huh and we get two of those ground down for each side and we'll use those for spacers wow, wow wow.

That's pretty good, probably be a little shorter for the two of them. Well, they don't run into each other right i'll, cut them down a little bit. That will be fine. That'll.

Do i guess before we put that tank on there there's a kind of funkiness going on with wiring? I would surmise that they are just going to the headlight over here and again. You can see where that one looks like it's broke off from. Is there an end on there not quite sure, what's happening with that one, this one's pretty much self-explanatory, so you can go, yellow, yellow white. I don't know what's happening with that.

We think one would be a ground. Let's go home it out see if we can find out. If one of these are ground - and you know again - we start to bike up because if you voltage are coming through because only two wires coming out of the headlight, so one's got to be hot. One's got to be ground and i would the third one maybe a kill.

I don't know. Maybe it was some kind of switch or something here at one time hard to say, there's also two going out see so the two for the tail light are solid, yellow and black. With a white tracer like what a white tracer would be. I have a feeling.

That's plugged in the wrong area and we should have the that one should be going. There are the ends correct, so that's female as long as that's a male and then a yellow one goes into there. I have a feeling - maybe one, because this is set up for two - they wouldn't have put this on there unless two wires went in it. Maybe this other one was power feeding it.

I'm gon na get a meter go pro round. Let's go figure out which one's the ground, at least my battery's getting a little low and the meter is kind of dim. So if you just short these two wires out, you get zeros right across the board, but that's kind of what we're looking for. We may get a signal, a bunch of different ones, just go ground out to the case somewhere.

All right, there's a good chance that these are gon na. Give us a couple of ohms too, though it's open. What's that one yeah one's counting off this might be power, because, what's going to do it's going through a coil that makes power down below so you're going to get some resistance on it, the one that was open was what the solid yellow one yeah you got To keep your fingers off at least one side, you got to keep your fingers off because it'll read across your your body and that one was open. If you put your fingers on see, if it'll do it, my hands are wet enough.

There you go. So if your fingers are on the leads, it'll screw screw up your numbers, i'm going to buzz across the headlight too see if the element is any good. This is a 40 year old bike. After all, let's get rid of that.

I think that's supposed to be there yeah, it's open. We should get like across a bulb like six ohms yeah, so that bulb's blown anyway yeah. So definitely something missing from here, because that's a female female female, the only male to female connection is right here and you know just like people male female, so that is a male connector. Female has the receiver.

Male is the emitter. So i have a feeling. There's probably a switch here that is just missing, so i'm not going to be that concerned about it again. It's just for the headlights.

We already had spark as long as the bike shuts off at the kill switch. I'm going to go clean a bunch of this up with my version of wire ties and kind of dress, that up a little bit and we'll see you guys getting that gas tank on top. That's all bolted up! There's that rubber snubber up there. I have a feeling, that's not doing anything, because we have the two bolts holding the front of the tank that may need to be slid to the back because it seems like the back.

Just has you know too much movement. If i grab the seat, i want to see what the how the seat is going to lock into it because, like it's got a key right there and then this locks into that tab on the frame. Let's just go kind of see if um how's that going to work all of it's the same time, yeah, let's go slide up that goes in, i don't know, seems like it supports the tank. I'm gon na go pop that off one more time.

I'm gon na see if i can go slide, that rubber piece back to here. I have a feeling, that's where it's supposed to be, i would say the tie wraps definitely kind of give it away too right. I wouldn't exactly call that factory. It's got kind of a rubbed stain.

I wonder if that's even part of the bike at all. I wonder if somebody added that i would think more likely right there, like i said, there's nothing. The bolts in the front will support the front of the tank. The back is just missing: i'm going to do the same thing.

I'm gon na go reattach that, with a tie, wrap back there see if that helps us at all, that's better! It's not the the plastic, isn't rubbing on the metal anymore. It's got a little bit of cushion on the backside, like i said the front kind of supports it all right now, how's your seat gon na go fit. I think it should be more of the same right yeah that kind of locks everything. I guess i like that better, i'm gon na do a little scrub on the seat, see if it'll come a little and bit cleaner good with that part.

Well, we got the rear fender really to kind of go screw with is about the last of the air box to get to the air box on it. I got the air filter box on, but the filter that came out of was junk and i don't have one so this is the the cage that helps support it, but it's the exact size of the filter, so i got filter material. This stuff is used for uh high-end computers, like a a big cabinet, an office somewhere. I'm gon na go cut that out, and it's really thick, it's probably about three quarters of an inch thick okay.

How was that, like that? That's a fairly decent fit and then this you playing that game right. Is that still wrong? It's still wrong. I know it came out of there we're getting warm we're going to eyeball that one, and it goes like that. Well, is that so difficult, it kind of it's sandwiched in between, and this cover goes on locks it down.

The air comes in through that hole through this cover and down through the intake, that'll work out pretty good for us and that's what we have to work with for a rear fender. It looks like this corner is already ripped out. It's still there. We still have it at least, and then the other side, the bolt holes there, but it had no, it had a tie, wrap, i think in it.

So let's go wash these pieces up. Take this off. Maybe we'll try a soldering iron first, if we just kind of melt the cracks back together, if not we'll just uh drill the holes and do the uh either tie wraps or mechanics wire to stitch it back together, and i guess we'll have to go, find a Bolt of sorts for uh that situation got it clamped together, washed it off real, quick and the old school soldering irons. What i'm going to try doing is putting some heat up inside that we'll just try mushing her together and see if that'll work out for us.

It's not super hot, but see how this does. I don't want to overdo it. You know, got ta draw it to the center, take a little from each side and we'll make like a a stitch kind of like a bureau welding flatten her out. I think the idea is just so you don't mess it up too much on the backside, so i'm going to go continue with that.

I got to get in front of it a little bit where you guys are standing see if it works for us often perfect, but it worked better than using just a regular soldering iron because you were able to move. You know much more material at a time and kind of walk it across the crack to try to feed it, and i didn't want to do anything on the top, because i think it's just going to make it show even more. I won't say it'll just so. Yeah, i don't think it'll survive a crash, but it should stay together.

Just for normal riding, be my guess, i'll just crack right now, all right! Let's get that bolted back on there fender looks pretty good, should hold, got the side cars to go deal with now. Yeah, actually, there's all that much to deal with just get them popped on is that right now it's got to go back. I should line up with the tank right and we got a bolt on that side. We'll do the same on the other side.

Let's look it up the fuel line. I, like these spring loaded, clamps that style you don't want them across the room over the uh once you have a screw in the center of it, and the reason why this fuel line over time will harden up with the ethanol in the fuel. If you have an area where you can get not ethanol fuel you're the greater, but it hardens these fuel lines up, it gets it'll get rock hard. Generally, they won't leak.

They won't break they'll. Just get very stiff like to the point where you got to cut off wire cutters when you're done uh later on. They go change it. If you go to, you know, replace it, but these clamps hold constant tension on them and it doesn't crush them out, whereas if you do a regular hose clamp that has the threads on it closes down, it closes down to a certain point: the line hardens up It kind of pushes the material out around it, and then it will loosen up and start leaking around it with this.

It first of all doesn't crush it as bad, but over time. If it does get a little bit of plague in it, it still takes that gap up. It constantly holds tension on it, no matter what the temperature that it's going through, where the electrics yeah that life expectancy, the life expectancy will go with that it just kind of keeps an even tension on and then later on, too. You actually can take them off.

Your trail riding or something you got to go, kick some water out. You actually just take them off of your hands and wiggle it off and put them back on. I think other than putting some gas in it and oiling the chain we're good and bolting the seat down, get a couple of bolts in that put some gas in it. Actually, we'll leave the bolts out of it for now, because we want to go pop it up and see.

If there's any issues, let's get some gas in it fire it up, see what she does yeah. I can do it without a funnel put two-stroke gas in it or remix. I should say it does have a oiler on it. I'm going to make a mess annoying.

I don't know if the oil works so we're going to run it at some time. At a point, i can actually take the line off of it. It's not getting overzealous, we could take a line off it and see if it's feeding oil to it. I rather let it run a little on the rich side at first then, to not have any oil in it whatsoever.

What'd you do with the cap. I saw you hide it. Hopefully that filled up. We were filling up.

The carb we'll give her a couple of kicks. I got to get rid of that mess. First, though, the crappy vibrating off the bench yeah see we get. Let's choke on need a lightning screwdriver for tweaking the carb.

Now that's got a constant fuel supply, stab myself in the uh, you know. What's i think, that's neutral uh seems pretty good, just adjusted the air fuel mixture on the idle side because it wouldn't want to idle. You know what that means. Don't you smooth? It was a person would have caught mouth, i'm just going to go dribble.

This is barn chain oil or chainsaw. These chains and sprockets are so far gone, but we can help it out a little. I don't even bother putting a new uh new chain on it, because the sprockets are just gon na eat it up anyway, but until they burn out he will try and help it with some of that and the bartender is kind of tacky. It kind of wants to stick around yeah front sprockets had it doesn't even want to roll over you lime, it's good, it's just.

Let's say we get rid of its tail. We don't need all that sticking. That's gon na wipe out that's gon na hurt about there. That's a little dark anyway.

This line right here is the oil feed for the oil injection. Don't know if it works, i'm going to go plug that intake leak right there, i'm going to go fire it up and we'll see. If we get some oil coming out of that and if that's still functioning and that will tell me whether to do a pre-mix on the gas or not because right now, i got pre-mix in it. So i'm 50 to one in the tank and then i'm also mixing 51 50 to 1, with the automatic oil are knocking me down to 25 to one really kind of thick on the oil uh it'll foul plugs and it causes it to run lean because there's Not enough fuel for the air, the fuel is being replaced by gas.

That makes any sense anyway. Let's go see what we get so um. It looks like it's working decent i'll leave. Whatever gas is in there for this round, it's only about about maybe a quart.

In there and then the next fuel that we'll put in we'll just put regular gas in it, so um um um. I don't like the soft stand. I don't know where i ended up. Um, oh um, uh.

That's a lot of fun in a little package. Oh boy, that's a doozy and here's your problem and solution. It takes to go and get it primed again. Hopefully you give it a second: kick it less time than jay had to kick his nose right yep.

Why? I look that big? You got a river uh um, you can rev it more it'll rev real high. We need about like 10., that's good yeah, it could revel. Ah, it's not good for bargain. It doesn't like that kind.

No, it wants to go. Uh hmm get a rapper, though. That's the bomb, that's the one! I'll get you one more. It goes yeah it's a little tiny size.

I think i got you beat, but i think it's going to be a fun competition like a before and after right. There, it's great wait. Did you ever figure out what that was yamaha? I don't have any idea what it is, what the frame is cool, so vw net 1967. we'll be gluing this together and leave with this sun, and then we would do a little trail riding out back yep.

Well, that little thing is fun that worked out quite well for uh what it was. It needs a little bit of love again, you can go for some tires, uh the chain and sprockets can get a new set, but we'll run until they fail uh man. I think seems good. The drive training seems, fine, trans is good shifts, okay, clutch doesn't slip, uh clutch cable is a little on the iffy side.

I think it's starting to uh lose a couple of strands and get stretched out, but it doesn't slip on it. The adjustment's all maxed out on it you can see right there, but for our 31 year old bike, let's see how those uh main china bikes are 30 years from now three years in their junk. So this one's already 31 years old and she's still kicking and didn't exactly have a loving life through that whole time period too. All right guys! Now i'm going to sign off and thank you all for hanging out with me.

A little bit of wrenching have a little bit of fun with some cheap stuff from the side of the road yard, sale and we'll do it again, sometime till then later so.