Hey guys how's it going. I just bought the best toyota ever made, but it's 38 years old and it does need some love. So we've got to do some work on it, but first, let's go for a ride: hey, let's go for a little putt i'll point out. Some things first is about to give a description of what the car is.

It's a 1984 toyota celica gts. I believe they made, i don't know if there's anything below the gt, it's a and gt supra gt is kind of, in my mind, is more of a plain, jane body style. The gts is the supra. Without the straight six engine, it's running the 20 r or 20 re depending what year it is once carbureted ones feel injected.

It's running a five speed, this being the gts. It also has a moon roof. The flip up headlights, fender flares mag, wheels uh rear spoiler. I'm sure there's a bunch of other stuff that i'm missing too, but things that don't work.

I already know of gas gauge yeah. You got to guess on that. It's got remote control mirrors, but they don't work so they got a piece of paper wedged in them. Try to get them to go on a straightaway i'll show you in a second and you'll, see that the steering wheel, yeah she's, not straight, i don't know if you have to pull the wheel off or you can pull the wheel off and just change this little Location and be straight again not sure on that the exhaust is a little drony and it does rattle it's okay, if you're putting around town, i want to be a little sporty, but after a while, like if you drive a car for a couple of hours, it Just vibrates your brain, i know i'm getting old anyway, so i like to try to quiet that up a little bit see if we can maybe change out the muffler see what's going on.

If there's any leaks in it, the car is a original paint. I don't believe it is from new england, because everything in new england is rusted to death. Nice view huh. This is uh.

I forget what they said. It might be like a california car or down south is definitely by looking around it. You will notice that it's not our typical new england, toyota, that's rusted to the door handles with the frame falling out of it same drivetrain, essentially as a 84 corolla, and is we're pretty much the number one reliable car for that time frame. So that's why i feel this is actually even better than the toyota corolla, because it looks much better than the toyota corolla.

It's got a sporty look to. It got some style. Let's go pull up here and we'll do a quick walk around and we'll take a look at the outside of it. That looks like a quiet place to go.

Do our building, let's go in there, all right pulled over in areas a little on the quieter side. Hopefully, we'll just do a quick walk around the outside of it. It's a good. Looking car.

I really like the way it is uh color, i probably would have preferred something, maybe a little different but being original paint i'll. Take it well so hard to come by in this area. You know west coast might be a different story, but on the east coast, all this stuff is rotted out to death, got the hideaway headlights mag, wheels, moon, roof, fender, flares the visor or louvers over the back window, and it's got all the options on it. For an 84 cars fairly decent, it's got cruise control power, steering power, brakes ac, rear, wiper, rear, defrost power windows, uh power mirrors kind of five speed, which i like over an automatic, and it's got a nice bulletproof engine yeah.

It's got some boo-boos on it. Tail lights, whacked on the right-hand side there, so i'm gon na put some red tape over it. The crappy job glue on it, the exhaust - i don't know what they got on there for a muffler, but it kind of rattles and uh again a little noisy side for me for a four cylinder car all right guys with that. Let's go back to the shop and bring up on the left, go see what the underside looks like any issues under there we'll start doing some rushing.

Hopefully you can get some of the stuff accomplished there. You got her up in the air. Let's go. Take a look underneath and see what we got and it was confirming with a friend of mine, the backstory on, and they did drive it out from california, so it's originally a california car.

I believe it's been here about five years now on the east coast. I don't think about a gts and a supra. I got some moisture going on. There is, it's got independent, rear suspension.

You should be a live axle in the rear. Now you see, it's got cv joints with the pumpkin in the middle yeah. They come with independent rear suspension on the gts and the supra. Here's that aftermarket muffler, that's on there.

It's rattling away, probably on that tin right there and the body looks good all the way around. I really don't want to repaint it because, as cars get older, if they have original paint on them, they are worth more than ones that have been repainted. Looks like we got. A bunch of oil dripping down looks like we're missing a clamp right there that can make for a rattle or possibly break it.

We're gon na go find out what that oil leak is looks like it's all over the place. It's free, undercoating, right, yeah, the rest of it looks pretty decent, though i don't see, hits anywhere. Hmm, definitely really clean. All right.

Let's go bring her down we'll pop open the hood and take a peek inside there see if we see what that oil is coming from, it looks pretty much as good under here as it did under the car. No rust, no shock towers tops of the fenders hood looks decent got a little bit going on the lip right there, so you could find that oil leak. It is a 22 re. 22 r, i believe, is carbureted and re.

I believe is the fuel injection and see - hopefully it's not a head gasket that would suck that's why it was cheap, see a vacuum line off sure. If that goes to anything, it looks like it's kind of running down the back, i'm going to say it's the valve car gasket. I don't know if you guys can see there better than i can and it looks like it's. It's wet even up this location right here.

I see, i see it on the manifold right here, so i guess it generally is not going to push it upwards. It's going to have to run down if there's an oil pressure switch. That could probably do it too. So this uh has a mechanical adjusted valve, so we might as well take the valve cover off and get a new gasket for it, we'll go through adjusting the valves and going from there so about cover gasket i want to grab a muffler, should probably grab an Oil filter tune up parts i'll wait on.

We may go chase some of that later, though, all right, i'm gon na do a little bit of shopping and we'll get into it got ta find out that's a hot or cold setting too on the valves. These are a tapered washer uh, not a washer, but a bushing, a seal, i'm trying not to tear them up. You see, that's the angle, that's around so and we're free looks pretty clean, like it's. Had the oil changed fairly decent in its lifetime.

My guess is the oil leak. Is these guys right here? They kind of shrink up over time, get brittle, so i'm hoping for anyway, all right. Let's go adjust the valves all right, so i'm getting ready to adjust the valves. Get the valve cover out of the way they are adjusted hot, it's 8 and 12 thou.

The valves are kind of easy to see where the engine is because you can actually see where the lobes are on this one's an overhead cam, so you're able to directly see what you're doing uh you can put a ratchet on it and ratchet the engine over. So that the lobes are facing down, essentially what you want to do on each cylinder, the loads are offset something like that. You want both of them in the down position along roughly along those lines that the lobes are not interfering. As i said, you can put a ratchet on it or you can kind of cheat.

This is called a remote start and all it has is two wires coming out of it. One goes down to the starter: the starter has a heavy lead and a little fine wire lead. The heavy lead is the 12 volts supplying the starter with energy. The little lead is the signal coming from your ignition switch, telling the starter when the turnover so one of the ends go to that and the other end just goes to the 12 volts on the battery.

Hence you pull the button crank's over, make sure it's in neutral. That's that's going to hurt, i'm just going to go! Look at those lobes and i'm going to bump it around until i get these two lobes out of play just a hair more right about there. So both of those lobes are facing down. We can now adjust that cylinder and that cylinder, let's go get a feeler gauge a wrench and give them a tweak.

Let's go see we got in there for someone it's kind of noisy, so i would suspect it's got. Some issues, the intake is the eight actually that one feels pretty good and the 12 on the other. One actually feels pretty good too, not saying that we're not gon na find one, but those seem to be okay, so i'm gon na go to the next cylinder. Go bump it again around.

You, don't have to do what i'm doing a lot of times. If you just like certain valves, you can adjust, you can put it in one position. You can get like these two valves, one valve here, one valve there. I rather just look at it, though, and make sure i got the lobes in the right position on each one that i'm trying to do and take.

She looks good on that one that one's loose, the other thing that you can do, which helps. If you don't have access to get a say, a wrench on the front of the pulley and the car is standard, you get the plugs out of it. You can take it and put the car in like second or third gear, leave the emergency brake off and you can actually roll push the car forward and back a little bit and it'll bump the engine over and make sure that well, it'll have no plugs in It so it won't run, but the no plugs is so you're, not fighting compression and i'm just gon na roll up on that one you get a nice drag difference between hot and cold adjustment, usually about a thousand depends on the engine like if this energy was Cold, i'd probably go a little tighter. I could probably still go for a little more a lot of times too.

When you you feel like it's okay, you tighten the jam that down the measurement changes so yeah that feels pretty good. Now it's got some drag, i'm gon na do the last two cylinders. I found one that's way out i'll, bring it back, yeah, so number three super loose on that one. There's no drag at all and the same thing on the intake.

Both of these are really loose yep. The further back i went the worse. It is that one's super loose that one's okay, that exhaust valve is super loose. That's probably where a bunch of the clacklin noise was coming from all done, took longer to take the valve cover off and it took to adjust the valves yeah so as it was good in the front progressively worse as it winch at the rear.

I don't know if that correlates to anything, maybe the last guy that adjust them was short. Just couldn't do the back ones. So that's all set. The issue is not so much with the valves being loose that just kind of makes for a noisy drivetrain.

The problem is: if they go tight, the other way wants to go burn a valve, there's not enough. If it gets too tight, where there's no gap, the valve doesn't close all the way and then the escaping gas, mostly around the exhaust valve, is gets hotter and hotter, and it that that gas flowing by the edge of the valve will overheat the valve and burn The corner of the valve away a little bit and let's say we'll see here you get burnt a valve. Well, that's what it is all right. Let's go get that valve cover gasket swapped over get that changed, and we can put all that back on and see if we could stab that out of there.

That's probably the original one yeah it's kind of stiff - and these are, i think, are the uh. The culprits for the most part and our new one, nice even give you the grommets for the top of the valve cover the two half moons will get set in the crankshaft. Let's make sure we have no rolls in this. We got to make sure that all right come on there.

You go just wiggle that around perfect. It's much prouder too. You can see how much higher it's sitting than the other gasket probably is about an eighth inch, sixteenth of an inch from the surface in the two half moons. I'm just going to go push right down on the cylinder head block them up like about putting a sealer on them.

Let me literally regret that we'll see all back together shoe, but i'll just turn the key on now. It won't start because they have that wire. Disconnected but we should just hit the remote and have it fire it up. Let's go give her a listen, then there's that a little better, not quite as cranky they got ta get put somewhere.

That's not how they're supposed to be. Let's go with that. Does look decent? I don't think the ac works all right. We want to work on next.

Let's go finish up. Let's go finish up engine stuff kind of give her a once over just check the fluids. I got a new oil and filter i'll, throw that on there. That'll take care of that.

Take the air cleaner, just all the basics, normal stuff, then we'll get into uh, maybe poking underneath and see what we do about that that muffler system that's on there. Let's even get ourselves a little urine sample here and we are looking for how many balls float. That's that'll be your protection. It tells you right down there one to four, i think all, but one was 40 below.

So that's more than fine kind of looks really decent in it. It's not like it's nasty, so i'm not going to bother changing that. What happens if you buy higher grade stuff pop the air cleaner off, there's, not even a mouse nest in it kind of unusual for everything i drag in here. So i think i talked about the fact that once in a while, the battery will be stoned yet on it and other times, it'll it'll stay just fine.

So it's just a regular test light. You can go, make it a positive position. Negative delay will light up. It doesn't matter which polarity you do doesn't care, i'm going to look for a drain on the system and one way you can go about doing that.

Take either terminal off. It does not matter, and if you go from the terminal to the one that you took off it lights up till the light is coming on and it kind of goes dim more than likely. That is just going to be for radio the memory of the radio, but it will get brighter the brighter. It is the more of a draw.

It has me i'll, open the door, so the interior lights come on see. If that light will stay, see how we got brighter, that's just showing you how much of a draw is on it. So if the key is off and the interior lights are off, radio is disconnected, and you have a light. That's on there generally that's something running the battery down it's staying on when the car is not running and a good way to try to determine what circuit is causing.

That is pull one fuse out at a time. Wait for the light to go out and whatever circuit that fuses on will more likely tell you what is going on. Unfortunately, this one's in a minute it seems like it. Doesn't it doesn't do it.

So i don't think that's just a draw for the radio. If it stayed that bright, then i definitely know i would have something on sometimes like with it being intermittent. It would be like a relay that sticks when you shut the car off. The relay doesn't turn all the way off and again we still have a problem with the headlights on this.

Is it related? I don't know, but as of right now, it's not doing it and just to follow up on that. It will run the battery down eventually like if you leave a car for a month, and it's got a radio, that's especially the older ones that they draw a little bit more for the memory will run the battery down. A lot of people put battery disconnects on it. A lot of new cars can't even do that because it holds the memory for the computer go power it back up later on.

If it's been sitting and the computer needs to get reflashed. That's why i like old stuff. I know the ac doesn't work, but i want to go see if i can push on the schrader valve and see if we have any kind of pressure in there see if you hear any kiss or you know if it dumped all the the fluid that we Know it's gon na leak in the system. Yeah.

I don't think we have any. I don't have any gauges to hook up to it, but it may have ruptured like the condenser or something if it had a hiss to it. I would just probably just try dumping a can in it a freon. I think it's gon na need a little bit more love than that yeah we're not getting anything.

Nobody help him. I could disconnect that starter wire, so this the jumper that we put on it. I know the shadow is getting you i'm just going to replug that lead back in that's the signal coming from the key get that right in there done. It's got a lube sticker under the hood.

That says: oh six, seventy thousand miles. Hopefully, somebody else has done something since then, or else it's got twenty thousand miles and 16 years or so on. It definitely needed it should be 3.3. Hopefully it doesn't overrun my bowl now i just got to figure out where it goes, we're out back, i'm going to go jump on that muffler.

So look at that swapped out, unfortunately, they welded it on. My hope is that the other muffler can kind of come. This way a little bit, maybe we can cut it right here and sleeve it right over. Don't, oh, my god, create the other muffler and take a peek at it.

So we have to work with. So what are the chances? The thrush hush will be quieter than what's already on. It almost looks like the same thing. Doesn't it i don't know what we're going to do for, i think the other one you can see right through.

At least this one has. You know a bit of a baffle going around through it. Let's see, there's another direction to it, it's physically, actually, when we want to go something like that right. So if we get that on, there we'd have to go in about that far and i think if we cut the old tailpipes off, we butt weld.

Let me get the setup, i wonder if we slice this right off and we just butt weld it to the edge of it instead of trying to sleeve over it again, i'm not sure what the diameter is off. I'm gon na go check this one too. Let's go get a caliper there's a diameter of that and diameter that see if it'll fit all right. So this one, i don't care what the number is we're just going to use as like a measuring tool is that wide and that, hopefully, you can drop into that one yep good, let's get to hacking slice.

That, probably, would i guess a sawzall probably be our best game in there off with its head, not punch through the gas tank on get started, get my finger out of there he's trying to pinch on it. There we go trying to get unhooked. The hook goes around so far. I can't get the bend out of it, i'm going to bolt it there.

I think we have to use that over anyway, because the other muffler doesn't have one. So i have to cut that hook off and and weld that on there or make a new one. Let's see if we just shove that muffler on there, i wonder if we should fire it up and just see if it makes any kind of sound difference. All right you were there with me.

It showed that it fit. I got what's called a uh, that's the right one right yeah! I got a pipe. You expander shove it here and try to open it up. I'm going to take a some kind of flopper disc or something we'll clean up this outer edge, so it doesn't have the debris on it somewhere over here.

First, shot: that's what these things are little pipe expanders, you put them in the center of it and you crank down this draws into the middle and these open up and there's also a cone, the cones just for the very edge. If it gets deformed, you hammer them in it kind of makes the surface right again. Let's see if one of these will work for us, though right about there. Hopefully there's enough room and it'll hit you in the gut.

Let's see if we can get a little expansion, you can even see right now. It's like it's making it like an octagon, i'm going to back it off, try to rotate it a little bit. Try to put those sections now in there i'll try to push on those areas until it looks around see if it did anything, i don't want to overdo, it probably wouldn't hurt. While we still got it here.

Let's go take that cone. One we'll ring it in there just to get rid of that again that that eight-sided look to it. Let's see if he'll see if she'll receive yeah we're over it anyway, i think a couple whacks with a hammer we'll be able to get us. I don't know if we're going to throw a clamp on that.

If you want to try welding it, we got ta. Do something about this heat shield too, that heat shield's right against it. Oh, if we could just manhandle it away the gas tank a little bit there, it's hidden and that's where i was rattling on before too. Where can we suck this pipe? Can we bend that hanger he's trying to get like a two by four, so we'll try to wedge in here see if we can give her a little bit of push away? I rather get a little bit more air gap from the gas tank all right right now, we'll measure it.

We got i'd, call that an inch from it see if we can influence that hanger. I felt like it did something huh, but i went a little too far. It's about three yeah. I definitely think i was thinking we're gon na get some spring back on it.

I think we got ta find a fine line. Does that do it? That's got it perfect right. There leaves about three eighths of an inch gap from the heat shield. Good, let's go quickly.

I think it'll fall off good enough to run it for two minutes and yes, i did put oil on it, not much different. It's a different sound. I actually kind of like it better still loud, though i'll go with that mike. We have a choice right.

I already cut it off all right, so let's go and cut the tailpipe off the other muffler we'll assemble that before we put it under the car, give that a hack guess we should probably go off the well towards the muffler more break that off there's the Original pipe huh, okay, so on this one i'll show you with the camera. You can see right through the muffler that one you can see right through there's, not much of a baffle doing anything or not, but the other one. It has a couple of chambers that it does go through, so it does give it a different, sound yeah. You can see inside this one.

It's got more of a chamber going to it. No light can't see through it i'm going to butt weld them together, yeah because they're the same size i might drop over it. Let's get that inner ring, though, what if we could punch it now they welded to that back to butt welding. We've got to get that galvanic coating off of there not going to be able to weld to that stuff.

Let's go clean up that edge, let's kind of square it up too. Does it look straight hope, so good attack on it anyway speak now forever hold your peace. I think we're okay, that's ugly, who blobbed that on there turned her down a little bit a little too too much. So we can't forget about that hook.

That has to get welded on there for support, so let's go clean some of this up, while it's out too well, i got the welding cart out and it has the plasma cutter on so i'm also playing with another toy i like to see if we can Go possibly cut right through here, not kill the muffler or the bracket, see how we make out watch your eyes and she's. A little warm watch out for the hot spots go see how that does for us. I should hit it with a rubber mallet, but that looks pretty good. I don't think we're going to weld it yeah.

We could bend it on the angle. We want we'll look at the tailpipe, see how they exit the car and maybe we'll put that hanger on there. What do we want? Well, maybe we just put a couple tacks on. We won't weld it solid case.

I don't like it. What do you think? Go? A little bit more that way, i don't want to get too close, it's a plastic bumper, you know, so i don't want the heat cooking. This i want to leave a fairly good air gap. I think before that was kind of crushed up a little bit more, but it was you know exiting out here should be okay.

Unfortunately, it's a white bumper, so it's gon na show right i'll, try tweaking it a little counterclockwise and we should be able to get our bracket tacked on right there and they could weld the front plan. We got one yeah welded on. Let's go give her. That feels pretty good i'll find out when we go for a drive getting a rattle to it better than it was, though, let's keep picking away at little issues and one of them in fact, there's nothing holding the battery in place.

When i grabbed one of the universal hold down brackets and then one rod has a rod that runs down to the bottom of the battery tray grabs it, and then it's supposed to attach to that we may have to - i don't know, maybe weld something on there. We'll see, let's get this stuff out of the package, see we can do. I see how this looks so that runs down and supposed to have one on each side. That's how these are normally used.

They have a bar as, like i said it runs down the bottom of the battery tray, there's a hole down in there. It grabs on to, and then that would lock onto you wait for me to short across the battery. Aren't you that locks on there to there and now we need to get to that bolt. I know we can just maybe flatten that out and weld it to it.

Probably the best bet, huh yeah, let's go! Try that all right see if we can melt some holes in this, this falls right off so good enough wrong size, 7, 16 on one side, 10 millimeter on the other. That won't fall out at least a little off the top. Please. The next thing you should jump on is the fact that it has no high beams.

It has low beams and high beams when you pull like the indicator towards you. You know you're flashing, somebody that they have the highs on or warning somebody cops coming uh. So i don't expect the bulbs they're working high and low. I don't believe they are a different circuit uh.

Let's see we'll start looking at the obvious first, which is going to be probably like the fuse box, what we got we got listed head like left and right. Well, that's going to be just for a left and right. We have both of one thing out, not a left or right. Let's go pop once you can latch down, the cover's off should probably probe, maybe a little bit.

Actually. What's that that's kind of cooked huh was that the would that say: fusible links, yeah that circuit doesn't say what it is, though. Let's go get a meter and see if power is still going across that or if that's an open circuit. That would do it huh.

Let's see if we get anything check our light first sure that's working always test your equipment, it'll screw with you all right. You may not have anything how it does, let's say with the key off all right, so that still has power going across. That's not it! This thing also had a big uh whooping stereo in it. So it's a possibility that uh.

That may be the issue. I wonder if we can uh, just whatever ones have power. I'm just gon na go see. If there's any opens some fuses wild power, some won't yeah.

Let's go turn the key on turn the headlights on and see. If we could poke around a little bit well, i actually had it wrong. There's no low beams! These are those headlight circuits right. Would that cover go so that's why the high beams work, the left and right can be those two over there, but it could have two blown low beam headlights that would make things simpler.

Uh! That's why we hit it to the high beam switch. It still has high beams. Let's uh can i get to the back of a bulb of one. Let's see how this stuff is kind of hidden in here we even if we just get the plug, let's go, shut the headlights off and go back down.

Let's see if we can get the plug off and then we'll see if we have power on uh two of the different probes, all right can we see the back now yeah. That was easy. The problem is: that's gon na do the rotation. When we turn the headlights back on, let's go see yeah we can get to it.

That's good! All right i'll, get you uh out of my hands in a stand. Let's go probe that and we got ta flick. It over to low beams and see if we got power on one of those all right, we're in low beams one's got power. Why would i have power on all three? I am on negative of the plug, so did that mean the ground went away right can't have power on all three that doesn't make any sense.

Is it feeding back through the other headlight all right? Let's go figure out, i'm going to go put the high beams on we'll do process of elimination, we'll figure out which ones are what just by all right, that's high beams, so that top one's dead and that one. So that is that ground uh. The next best thing we can go: do i'm gon na go shut the headlights back down again because i'm a little perplexed, sometimes they're pigtailed together. So what it does is the bulb on the other side.

It goes through the element and back for you to the side and kind of screw you i'm gon na, go to flip the headlights. Now i'm gon na go probe the headlight bulb itself and see. If we have it open, we got a brand new high beam low beam, not the right shape, but let's just plug that in and see we get. I have a feeling.

We have other issues, though, find the hole been a while yeah nothing. So it's not the headlight headlights. Let's go, keep probing see we can find it's gon na, be another fuse box. I would think too.

I think we started chasing relays. It's saying that that one should be that one. I am going to go pop the headlights on low beams kind of give them a couple whacks, and then i don't have anything to replace this with. Unfortunately, parts stores are closed right now we could possibly open it up just kind of fire it with our fingers, but i would figure one circuit is going to be coming from the switch telling it this to latch and then making a pass going on the other Ones, possibly just jump it out too and check it if not we're gon na go under the dash.

I think it's another fuse box under there, so i put it on so. The high beams are on and they're off right now and they plug it back in the headlights, come on and the relay feels click. So it's not this. Oh my god, the wheel.

Well, it's like somebody's definitely been here before it's huh. Let's just swing open and come off: that's just floating that doesn't make any sense huh going on here. Yeah, it's not a hinge. So where is it hiding it plus out? The fact that that wire is cooked definitely has me kind of speculating that.

Well there, it all is that something is a riot see if we see anything that says fuse or headlights, and you can probe that one radio. What is that what's head, rtr, there's a joke there somewhere. Let's give that a little seven minute. I'm sure that at some point, if we don't find it here, possibly it's going to be up by the uh headlight, the uh switch itself in a column come hoping it's not that, but we'll see all right.

We need to go find that one that's supposed to be there, not exactly a bunch of room. It's working. Let's say we make a little bit of elbow room, so you can get this out of the way wraps all around. You see anything better and i did screw up.

How do you grow up? You ask, i did not have it's the original diagnosis. I have high beam and low beam. It is just no high beam in its normal resting place. You click it towards you.

It does have the high beam come on how i screwed that up, i'm not sure onward right. So we got to figure out what is happening and which fuse it is so which one was it again yeah. I forgot the orientation of the panel first right. Sometimes they give you like the mirror image.

Sometimes you hold it like this, it's the actual. So i got ta go figure out where there's a 20 amp fuse and a seven and a half. I can get my orientation from there as long as somebody doesn't screw it up fuses. So that is going to be.

You guys got a much better view than me. It looks nothing like that. How does this have two fuses going across and that has like four? I don't know why my meat head is gon na, be like that again, i can't see it's my excuse. I'm sticking with it.

I can't see okay, so what's that one right there tell me i'm gon na say it goes like that, and our headlight would be this one man. They can't get in there, something some of them come with like a little tool. You can grab them pull them out. I'm gon na go get a pair of needle nose pop that fuse out.

Let's see, if there's any issues with it, let's go just go see. If we can probe it was that was it that one power on that side power on that side, there's nothing wrong with that fuse. That is not our issue. Ah, i am to the point where either a relay or the high beam low beam switch and also that steering wheel is out of whack too.

So i wonder, if somebody's in there, ahead of us kind of probing some stuff around and didn't fix it kind of like the gas gauge scenario, what is all that that looks like somebody's stereo installation? Maybe then it goes into the regular harness it doesn't. Look like toyota, though, does it it's got two markings on it all right, so probe diffused got power on both sides. It's not the fuse. I do see loose hardware, this thing fell out and we got a bunch of relays and stuff and wires and crap kind of looks like half-hazardly flopped around inside there.

I definitely think we are chasing somebody else's attempts at fixing stuff. So let's go get. This cover. Drop down see if you have a little bit better access to what's going on yep more spaghetti, i don't think that's from the factory they haven't hooked up to again it was there's big wires in the back for something like an amp or something that was in Here and they ripped it out, i am looking for some type of relay or something that runs the hello controller.

I guess it's gon na look something like this. That might even be it right there. I don't think the um. This has an owner's manual, i'm going to go check and see if there's anything in there.

Sometimes the older cars are a little bit better with telling you what's going on well tore apart this side, poked and hoped over to the other side. There's another couple of relays and whatnot on that side, poked and hoped the problem is, i do not have a book on this car and i did a quick online and i was not able to find anything really kind of zeroing in so far on it. So i may have to go back to this. The only thing i found was a old forerunner book.

I was trying to go poke through that, so you can give me some idea where the locations of the uh you know the breakers. Everything is wired, no good. It's uh too far away from this vehicle. I've had like a crawler or something i'm sure would probably be fairly close to the same setup, but i have a feeling it's probably going to be right in the stem.

Just the contacts are not making it. You know for the high beam part of the switch, but i think we're going to jump past that i got to order a book on it and see you know we still got other stuff to go chase. The gas gauge isn't working. I have a low beam.

I have high beam high beam. You just have to hold in the up position again, it's better than not having uh the other way around, so we're gon na go. Leave that b for now and uh, probably going to run into the same thing. For the next item that we're going to jump on, which is just see what we can do with getting these mirrors, they just kind of are floating around.

They don't stay put. They just. You know very hard to work with. As far as trying to see down the road again, i tried wedging a piece of uh plastic inside here, but as soon as you shut the door, the mirrors move on you.

So, let's go see if we can go pop one of those apart and if there's anything we could service on the inside of them. It looks like somebody's already been jumped over to the passenger side, because this is floating this broke off. You got a screw there and we got a controller for it here. Those two screws, even though there's another one up there, even if we can go, get it just so that it has a lot of drag on it to stay.

Put you know wherever you can kind of set them by hand i'll be happy with that, but again that they just pop it around too much and let's go see what we can see. It looks like somebody's already. What is that right? There somebody goober some paper or something in there, stop it the first time that is, i don't know if we could pop the glass off like a a socket and get it out of the way, looks like it's got a little electric motor right there right and Another one see a big spring or something looks like a spring. Doesn't it well possibly can break the mirror, but i have a feeling we might be able to just kind of pull on it and it's got like one of those, those nubs in the center.

Let's go find out kind of good that we're, starting with the passenger, mirror a little come out there. It goes good yeah somebody went and put all that crap in there to tighten it up. So what is these little? Pads must push like. They must come out and steer the mirror.

Did they break off or right? It would just kind of like push on those two things. Wouldn't it. So i wonder if those are make sure you're in frame. Let's i don't know if it's the mirror or not.

Probably two weekend: well i mean why did you get coming out of that just three or six three? We could probably probe that too. Just like turn the switch where it wants to see if we're getting power to it. I'm surprised we can't get these to. I guess maybe they're threaded: will they turn yeah? If we turn them, they get longer, never had one of these apart, so we pop that back in we could adjust it mainly one time.

I wonder like two like if it's running, because there's not much drag on that at all, if um they just kind of vibrate and work their way, all the way in that'd be a pain, yeah, so huh trying to set it up we have to. We will all right, let's uh, screw it around. Let's go get a test light and see if we got any power going to the mirror, see if there's a problem with the mirror or a problem with the car, i got the key on: let's just go grab one of them and there we go there. It goes so definitely i'm trying to rotate the mirror in the center and it's getting a signal on the light.

Let's go see i'll figure, one of them to ground, though right yeah. So that's one another watch, the third one. Do it to me too right yeah. So that's nope.

I wonder if it has to switch back and forth out of one of right. So it's a motor. You got to go forward and back so you're going to need the each post to go from positive to negative. We know we got power coming to each one of those, but then it has to switch over to being ground.

It has to switch the other direction for the electric motor to go back. The other way right. So let's uh put the test light. This end of the test, light on 12 volts on the battery and we'll try it again.

We see if we get grounds going to those three all right so now my test light is hooked to 12 volts on the other end, so any touch part of the body that i touch will, let me know if i have ground going to it or not. So let's go do the same thing: can you see the and plug see if anything lights up now, all right there we go. So that's what it is. It's switching back and forth between hot and ground.

I don't want to jump across these, i'm going to arc them out yeah. So that's the scenario they seem like they're working seems like all the issues are in the mirrors themselves: yep each one has the capacity to jump back, jump back and forth between positive and negative to run those little electric motors. Let's go look back at the mirror. Again see if we can do anything with those see if they're stuck if we get them to move, i don't know so before i go crazy.

I am just going to go plug it back in and with the mirror off of there, we'll just kind of confirm that these aren't doing anything else. If they do anything that one's working - okay, all right, they didn't do that before. I know for a fact: i'm gon na go switch over to the other side, how come they're both working now. Neither one did anything before i don't know if we just disturbed something in the wiring when we're screwing with the other stuff.

Let me go pop that glass back on there and see if it will come back to life and we'll start ranking those little motors apart. That's weird huh, wouldn't it have to have, would think there'd be like a spring. That was that point and that point you would think that there would be like a spring opposite or or something pushing against it gravity did something go on that little tit that broke off hmm see a big sprint. The big spring, i think, is if the mirror itself gets hit and you know pushed on the car.

It springs it back. I don't see anything else missing to you, let's go without that piece of paper in there. So it's like that right before i break it, see how floppy that something's, not right, we're missing something. I'm gon na get cocky break it.

I wonder if we could put something around that to tighten the socket up. Let's go something's got to hold the mirror better than that. We should pop the glass out of the other side, see if we see if there's like something laying in it like somebody was definitely in this one. We saw the paper that was in it right.

Can we go try to pop the glass out of the the driver's side and see if we see see what we see see damage this one? Oh, my god, crap this one's got stuff, stuffed in it everywhere. I don't see anything different, though. Do you think it's just the same scenario as far as the sloppiness of it? I think we could probably get something around the socket. I wonder if that's all it was like this was supposed to have so much tension on it, but what would like so you run both sound noise out right, bulb motors.

You tilt it up like that, so for it to come back, what would pull? What would pull the mirror back towards these two posts like there should be something in my opinion linked from here to here, the hold it against those two, those two pieces, because even if the socket was tight right, if the mirror was run all the way up, Both motors out and then you backed off, what's going to draw it back towards it, i wonder if we could, just like add a spring, i don't know how we're gon na get it on there, though, or i wonder if, like a spring, if we just put A spring up in this corner to give them something to fight against, i'm not sure, i'm gon na think about that a little bit. That's probably our best bet right. Let's go make sure these are moving so that one's not changing. It's not changing its height.

Just staying there, a piece of plastic just broke off of it too. You think they're like supposed the outside's supposed to be glued to it. What are we doing? That's that one, so they they go round and round, but they're not doing anything on this one. All right, let's go work with the passenger mirror and see if we can do like those seem like those two things were working right.

Maybe we could put like a spring up in this corner, we'll try to get the passenger mirror back together and we'll just kind of screw with this one yeah. Looking back at that other one, i have a feeling. That's the scenario that this both of these had like little tits, that popped off of it and locked into each one of those and that's what made it to pull and push. I don't know if we can rebuild that, or maybe we should just move forward with what i was saying and try to mount yeah.

So is that, like, okay, lift that right out of there shouldn't that be part of the it's? Probably this is probably a miniature version of something like this yeah. You can see there's a little bit of a nub there. So can we get if they still push out? Can we do it? Like i said, can i glue a light spring in this corner? They have something for them to push against, won't hurt to try right. So i unthreaded one of those out of there, and i think, what's supposed to happen is these are not supposed to rotate so that the one that's on the driver's side that was just sitting there.

I wonder if we hold them with our fingers and they'll they'll run in and out, but the fact that, instead of them, turning on the threads, the whole thing is turning is allowing it just to stay where they are. So we would have to also kind of come up with something to keep these from turning or else they're just going to sit still yeah. I i spun them out my fingers right. How do you get it together, too? Is the other part of it? I see you popping the frame of the mirror on there right.

That's what one looks like was that all one piece no pain. Yes, i rather just have mirrors. You can just grab with your fingers again. It's it's 38 years old shouldn't be complaining, threads already on the inside or the outside, see something on the outside.

So would you be able to push them in? Let's go see like how would you assemble it, and now i'm gon na have to rotate odd huh. Hmm, unless again like they just had like little knuckles like that they just it it popped onto them. Well, i say we got nothing to lose. I think we should try mounting a spring, maybe around that screw and get it in there cut it down.

Some to probably about half of it and that'll give some push against these two and hopefully there's enough push against these, maybe we'll all dribble some like light oil or something inside these, so that the outside, if it's got pressure against them, maybe they won't spin and They'll kind of work correctly yeah. I think it's going to be our best bet, if not we're going to need whatever these guys are and how they attached to their whatever stop them from turning you'd. Think that all they would do is like cut a a slot in them, and then they have like a slot on these that they would just pop them on. They won't turn yeah yeah.

Let's go put that on there somehow and see if we can make it work, it's like the thing behind your door. How short you think it's not a very it's pretty light and i will rather cut a little too long and too short. Let's go with that. Much see if it'll work for us are you in poor enough.

Well that that's where it's supposed to be against the spring and it should it should push it like that far. I probably should have left it. Maybe full that's! No good! We got to come up with something a little more beefy than that something a little bit more zest. I probably again left it long because that you know i was thinking the outside edge was where it stopped.

You know i was thinking the mirror kind of stopped there, but really you rock the mirror comes all the way out to there. So let's go find something a little bit more beefy all right pick one, i'm thinking so the original one is this. You can see the thinnest of the wire. Let's try a full length of that.

Let's see how it does for us kind of snuck it around the corner. There get out there idea that up under there. You know i'm going to stick it under my nail and i should do it. Can we get it to lean? Let's just see what happens with that punches right through the glass.

I bet there's not like a can get like a in a cavity. I wonder if we can get it so the post is there. We are coming roughly in this area right, try to direct it so like that pocket will hold it. You know it doesn't want to slip behind it and go sideways there.

You go so that that's spring we have to get it back up a little hold on so that spring we have to get it to go up in the upper corner. You can get like a flap blade yeah. We can get it to sit. Maybe right here.

It's already better. Actually, i wonder if we run those two cylinders out, will that do it? I feel like it's got like a lot of room to move, though, like that mirror needs to be that far. I feel like those things would fall right out that one that one break right off that sucks yeah. I think that one just got so brittle.

Yeah, look! It's it's shattering. It's just falling apart. We were so close. You got one.

I would have to try to come up with something that looks like that right, yeah, this one just turned to dust, nothing left of it, there's all the pieces of it. So these things are like almost like a wax there's not much to them. You know, i think, what they did was they put the when they put the glass on and they just started both motors and they ran it in and it kind of cut its own threads is my guess, but what i found i found a bolt that a Thread into it again, i have a feeling what's going to happen, is this thing just sits in the motor and this is not supposed to spin, but i have a feeling what's gon na, even if i cut it and it's got some pressure against these little pads. I still think they're gon na kind of instead of the bolt getting longer and shorter.

I think it's just going to go spin. How we go about getting all that together. I don't know i'm going to go cut this one, i'm going to go cut that part of it off thread it in and then just kind of hook it up worst case, i'm just going to go, take them and i'll turn what i have here, i'll dial It in so the mirror is in the right location, location and doesn't move around. I ain't letting anybody drive my car anyway, so the mirrors will be set up for me and at least work.

They won't be flopping around like crazy. So let's give it a shot. This will give it a fighting chance, we'll put a little bit of lube on the thread, part of it. You know so that it doesn't that's still hot, which one's more important up and down left and right.

Stop it. That's gon na be our one that down almost all the way we'll leave that one about halfway out. What's your thing, third time's, the charm, the mirror's not going to be white anymore by the time, i'm done all right. There we go yeah.

It looks good if we got ta go if that motor will run out for us. I probably should have set that one a little bit more find out. Hopefully that's enough pressure against it where it'll allow it to do its thing. I think what happens, though, when it runs all the way in then it's kind of screwed so and see if it does anything, make a noise yeah.

I think it's just rotating around. That's the problem that way it works. That's this way.