15 thoughts on “Toyota tundra timing belt replacement part 2/3”
The Timing Belt was installed incorrectly (backwards). The Crankshaft Pulley Belt Timing Mark did not line up with the sprocket "Divet". The reason the truck started without a problem and had no Cam/Crank timing alignment/correlation issue, was because the Sprocket TDC mark was lined up with the the crank engine block TDC timing mark.The marks on the timing belt are referenced from the drivers seat. The Left labeled timing mark on the belt is for the drivers side cam, the Right labeled timing mark is for the passenger cam. The reason the left with respect to the right cam were referenced correctly is because its symmetrical configuration between the left and right cam. Thats the reason the Belt mark on the crank sprocket did not align with the "mark" on the mark on the front of the sprocket. And you were right, as long as the cams were referenced together with the belt marks, then all you had to do was line up the back of the sprocket 0 TDC mark with the engine block crank 0 TDC. Thanks for your video !!!
1. Belts On backwards 2. You need to advance the crank pully 50 degrees before you remove the crank pulley 3. the timing marks should then line up with the "T" notch (ATDC) not the TDC mark 4. You need to compress the old tensioner and hold it in place with a small allen wrench 5. Leave the slack side of the belt on the tensioner side to make room for the belt to slide on 6. The white dot on the crank gear should line up with the crank gear marking on the belt 7. After everything is installed, turn the engine over manually (clock wise) a few revolutions to make sure nothing is binding 8. Rotate the crank to zero degrees on the timing cover and make sure your cams are now at TDC 9. You fucked up big time 10. Use a water pump that has a metal turbine (never use a pump that has a plastic turbine because they fail at around 70k miles) 11. You should have replaced the cam seals 12. You should have replaced the crank seal
First of all, great video with lots of details and thanks for sharing. For the people that are learning, the belt "appears" to be off a tooth, but as long as the timing marks on the pulleys line up with the block, were good to go. In the video, the timing mark on the belt, labeled "CR" was off a tooth because the belt was installed backwards (by mistake, the "R CAM" mark on the belt was actually lined up with the mark on the left camshaft pulley). Before even starting up the engine, it's strongly advised to turn the crankshaft by hand (two full rotations) and recheck that the timing marks on the pulleys line up with the marks on the block.
First of all your belts on backwards but that doesn't matter. Your tensioner is easier to put on if you compress it in a vice and put a cotter pin in the holes. Once you insert the tensioner, remove cotter pin and it'll tighten using it's hydraulic pressure. You should have put a new one of them, too.
In the future compress tensioner in vice and install hold pin into provided hole. It will make tensioner much easier to install. After install pull pin to release piston. Thanks for the video.
Kinda scary when one of the marks don't line up, huh? I wonder if the tensioner took up the slack in the wrong place? I guess I will see in the next video.
Good tutorial.
The Timing Belt was installed incorrectly (backwards). The Crankshaft Pulley Belt Timing Mark did not line up with the sprocket "Divet". The reason the truck started without a problem and had no Cam/Crank timing alignment/correlation issue, was because the Sprocket TDC mark was lined up with the the crank engine block TDC timing mark.The marks on the timing belt are referenced from the drivers seat. The Left labeled timing mark on the belt is for the drivers side cam, the Right labeled timing mark is for the passenger cam. The reason the left with respect to the right cam were referenced correctly is because its symmetrical configuration between the left and right cam. Thats the reason the Belt mark on the crank sprocket did not align with the "mark" on the mark on the front of the sprocket. And you were right, as long as the cams were referenced together with the belt marks, then all you had to do was line up the back of the sprocket 0 TDC mark with the engine block crank 0 TDC. Thanks for your video !!!
Good job so far.
Would've been helpful if you didn't talk so much
1. Belts On backwards
2. You need to advance the crank pully 50 degrees before you remove the crank pulley
3. the timing marks should then line up with the "T" notch (ATDC) not the TDC mark
4. You need to compress the old tensioner and hold it in place with a small allen wrench
5. Leave the slack side of the belt on the tensioner side to make room for the belt to slide on
6. The white dot on the crank gear should line up with the crank gear marking on the belt
7. After everything is installed, turn the engine over manually (clock wise) a few revolutions to make sure nothing is binding
8. Rotate the crank to zero degrees on the timing cover and make sure your cams are now at TDC
9. You fucked up big time
10. Use a water pump that has a metal turbine (never use a pump that has a plastic turbine because they fail at around 70k miles)
11. You should have replaced the cam seals
12. You should have replaced the crank seal
First of all, great video with lots of details and thanks for sharing. For the people that are learning, the belt "appears" to be off a tooth, but as long as the timing marks on the pulleys line up with the block, were good to go. In the video, the timing mark on the belt, labeled "CR" was off a tooth because the belt was installed backwards (by mistake, the "R CAM" mark on the belt was actually lined up with the mark on the left camshaft pulley). Before even starting up the engine, it's strongly advised to turn the crankshaft by hand (two full rotations) and recheck that the timing marks on the pulleys line up with the marks on the block.
First of all your belts on backwards but that doesn't matter. Your tensioner is easier to put on if you compress it in a vice and put a cotter pin in the holes. Once you insert the tensioner, remove cotter pin and it'll tighten using it's hydraulic pressure. You should have put a new one of them, too.
In the future compress tensioner in vice and install hold pin into provided hole. It will make tensioner much easier to install. After install pull pin to release piston. Thanks for the video.
in my opinion they are the best,,
@mustie1 Ford Chevy dodge Nissan have been using chains for quite some time. Is this toto sienna reliable
not in a 2004
tundra doesnt have chain?
@mikeinatexas I thought about that after, thinking that I am looking at the engine backwards,, thanks for watching,,,
@jamesfreddys the supension was killing ya wasent it,,,
i use ky-jelly to lubricate o-rings, save to use on rubber……..
Kinda scary when one of the marks don't line up, huh? I wonder if the tensioner took up the slack in the wrong place? I guess I will see in the next video.
Good tutorial.