Hey guys and how's it going. This could be part 2. On this uh 1969 1970, a monte gt kick car based on a vw. Chassis type.

3 is what's underneath it. It has been sitting since 1977. It's an old inspection sticker on it and i bought it, as is with a stuck engine in the last video we kind of went through the car. Take a quick look at it and ended up taking the engine out of it, tore the engine down and found out that the engine is locked up.

It seems like it's seized on all the cylinders can't get any of the jugs off and at that point decided to move forward with something else and that something else is another engine that the car actually came with, which is this one right here, so we took All the tins got all the rusty sheet metal off of this one. This one looked worse, but it did spin most of the way around. We took the cylinder heads off and found it was a bunch of crud first in the intake and exhaust ports that went into the cylinder and then the piston just couldn't come all the way up. It was squeezing that crap between the cylinder and the head took the heads off cleaned them up.

Real quick put it back together did a compression test on it and got a decent uh bottom end to work with, so we're going to move forward with that now i think we're going to go and pop the cylinder heads back off. Let's get the valves out of them see if we can clean that stuff up and just kind of give everything a once over and move forward with getting an engine in the car. Let's do it and on the last video i was wrestling with starters, trying to find one that would operate for it. We had one that was okay, took the one out of the car kind of go check to see how that one wasn't.

That seems much better. So, as you know that one's good and we'll use that for the testing of it in the stand, it looks any different after a run. Look pretty good! I'm running the old head! Gaskets too, i didn't put new ones on. We were just doing a breakdown run plus i got the heads on the wrong side.

This is actually one for the other side, because it's got the head temp sensor that goes on the driver's side, not that it really matters that doesn't get hooked up on this. You guys you can get a valve or two out of it. This is a homemade spring compressor. I mean it's just a c clamp.

I don't know if it's gon na work for this, we are going to find out right about now. I guess i hope he opens large enough, so so actually looks pretty good. Of course, all the clarity, the crap. We can clean off the stems and all and we'll lap them in.

So i'm going to go, pull all the bowels out i'll bring you back when i have them all out. We take a look and see if anything looks extraordinarily kind of weird. So far so good, i was expecting to see a bunch of pitting. We haven't looked at the uh, the seat yet on the head, but we will shortly cut them all out now.

Let's see they look, this is the first one we took that they already saw see that one's got some crud going on huh. That's not making a very good seal, hopefully that's just crap on the end of the valve and not metal. If so within that valve is really hammered. I think it's just a bunch of carbon and crap we'll take them unaware, we'll clean them up, guys feel pretty good one's got a little bit of slop when the intakes have a very little bit of side play.

Let's see what we got going on here, a little rough see the texture of it again, they're just from sitting too here's some rust on this one. Let's definitely get some, so it's good because it means if we clean it up. Our numbers are just gon na get better and they're already good enough to run, and it should have so. I hate gaskets in it i'll get rid of them.

I'm going to go out my way with it with a wire wheel, clean some of the crap off bring you back, see what we got now lap some valves. What is your iron nose? Aren't you, those are awesome. Oh one, take it see if i could do this handheld without shaking the camera too much so i cleaned it up the seats. Look pretty good, that's the intake.

I don't see any pitting really. They look really decent all the way around. So no issue with that. I see a little bit of coining on the head.

This is where that head gasket is, and you can see where it's made a little bit of a step. That's literally from the head kind of moving around a little bit a re-torque help, also, especially if it was overheated at some point not terrible again. This one's a head, gasket a beetle, doesn't have that it doesn't have that compression ring. It's just the steel cylinder right on the right on the uh aluminum of the head, magnesium.

I think it's aluminum this the valves. On the other hand, you can see some, let's get you make sure it's in focus. I don't that orange is helping or hurting us. The exhaust valves aren't too bad, but the intake valves, if you look towards the stem, see that pitting it's like rust.

That's happened, valves don't like having deformalities on them because it they have a tendency to crack break in half and make a mess. So that's not great, it's not terrible. It's not a great way to wheel them off and also the surface has does have some pitting in them. I've had a valley, a valve, cutting tool, it'll be awesome, but we don't.

What i was thinking is. We have the other cylinder head. Why don't we take the valves out of that? They look newer. They look much fresher.

I don't even know if they're the same size, the engine that we are working on, see that one's got some pointing on it down below. On the on the ridge, there there's a slight step at the very edge, so the engine we're working on it's an 1800 out of the porsche 914 and the original engine that was in it was out of a bus and it's a 1700. So the head, the head, the jug's, a different size, the head, won't fit. I can't put those heads from the 1700 on the 1800: they just won't fit.

Let's go see if the valves are the same size. Is that, if that's the case, maybe there are better options, turn around take a peek? What we got they just look like about to turn shinier yeah. They look like they possibly have a little bit less hours on them, although they are cruddy, get a couple of them out got the valves out of the other head cleaned them up. They look decent, probably about the same same amount of pitting slight, possibly maybe a little bit better improvement, but not much, but there's also.

Another issue is that the valves, so these are the intake valves, so the original one. Actually this is the original one is larger. The one on the 1800 is larger than the one on the 1700, but the exhaust valves are the same size. So what do we got right? Large one goes up there.

That's that one and the exhausts are the same. So i think what we can do is if we're going through them. We find the exhaust valve that's a little on the questionable side. Maybe we'll steal one out of this head, if not we'll just go together with what we have.

Let's go over to washburn cleaned that up a little let's laughing compound flopping laughing compound is like liquid sandpaper, the best way to put it, and it makes it so that the two mating surfaces alright. So we are on that intake valve and when you spin them together, it marries one surface to the other as far as there. Well, that's not going to work now. Is it hitting the vice? Will you readjust that's better and the idea see if we can do it without whitman is to marry one to the other they're mating surfaces so that there's no slight voids between them and that very fine sandpaper action? Does that you'll hear it kind of change to the sound we'll change over this thing sucks, but that's what we got to work with.

You could actually put a piece of fuel line underneath it too and hook it to a drill. If you want, let's try it dry, get back on there, get get we're losing everything operating difficulties. Please stand by. I got ta fix this hey that should be good enough.

Go clean them up. Look at those surfaces, see how they are. They wiped it off. You can kind of see the contact patch is pretty good.

It's pretty wide wider, isn't always better, but i'm essentially i'm looking for a good seal going all the way around which i do the a lot of times. It's a smaller contact patch over time. It wears down, it seems like that laughing compound i have is a little bit on the coarse side and doesn't have any rating on it. I don't see any number as far as like sandpaper, so the color is a little bit darker than i would normally see.

Usually it's a little bit more polished when you're done, but we're going to go with that, like you can see on the other ones, the the sheen that's on them, but as long as they mate together and make a compression i'll be happy with it. Not that i have a choice anyway, nothing's open at one o'clock in the morning. You can hear it. You hear how pushes all the material out you hear it growl at first and then it gets polishy.

So when i lift up it kind of draws the material back in again and then it's shiny, so that's all i'm going to do i'm going to keep working that for a while there's the aftermath. They look pretty good and then the bells are the same thing. So i'm going to reassemble them, get them in we'll pull the other head off check them out. Do the same, i didn't replace any valve.

I just went with what we had now. This is the side that had the lower compression, and i could definitely see that that intake one there. You can see all the the color running across it, no impurities or slight passages of leaks same on that one too actually on the exhaust. So i can see the numbers being lower on this one.

Actually, i see rust going right across that one right. There see it a little chunk right right there, so this one will definitely benefit from a clean up and lapping in. I can see the crap. The intake valves don't look too bad, but that exhaust valve shows a lot of what i was just talking about that those little patterns going across it all right.

So i'm gon na do the same to them, get all that carbon off of there clean them up and check the guides. Real quick, look, fine, hey foreign, not sure, but i'm thinking that they're they're scratches and the reason why i say that is like the one that goes through the s. It doesn't continue in the middle of the s and in the vw. The scratch doesn't go through that vw, i think it might be like it got scratched digging off of it.

I don't see anything on the back. Should you want any kind of cracking back there, but if it blows up, i think that's what we're going to blame. It on i do not have another one to put in there. If i did, i would, but i can't so.

I won't - and i am really questioning scarface here, and this is the one out of the other head. I thought it was a big difference in size. It does come up to the seat and you put them up to each other. The one is a hair bigger, and i know the bore was bigger.

Let's lap this one in and we'll see where the pattern appears on it, if it's really ridiculous to one side or is it, you know contacting fairly decent, where it'll make a good seal, trying to figure out which one's just going to be the the better of Two evils: maybe that's way overkill hold on i'll, get you there and that's real high. In the valve. I mean it's got a good contact patch all the way around, but it's high on the valve decisions decisions i kind of want to go with this one. I know you're shaking i got to move this hold on.

I think it's a judgment call, but i'm gon na go with. I think i'm gon na go with the smaller valve, i'm just just not liking that i'm gon na go. Look at this a little bit more decisions, man, it's like it's like in the center of the heart of it. You know it's not like it's a piece on the outside.

Well, that fuel pump will go. Try that it'll work. We change it out now we're going to go for what's dead center, the most everything you got to take apart to go, get to and make a decision. So i don't know how many times i've gone back and forth, but i'm putting it back together.

One last time i was going to go with the small valve without the cracks in it and i'm looking over here and that's what it is. I think somebody had cleaned it at one point and scratched off some stuff and i think they scratched some carbon off the center of the valve, because there's witness marks here too, so that's uh, making me feel much better he's just throwing telling myself right now. So does the whole true, like the liberty belt you crack, it doesn't sound, have the same ring. I think they sound the same between the cracked and non cracks where they're, both cracked so well.

The heads are ready to go, but this thing needs a bath. I'm gon na take a coffee, can little minimal spirits give it? What for it's not going to change much of the color right? You won't get all the crap knocked off of it. You know that stuff, it's actually the next day, but i did go through the trouble cleaning the block and it looks fairly decent and we're not going for a restoration or more of a restoration kind of shop here all right, so i'm gon na get that oil Filter off of there, i'm gon na check my stash see if i have one and we got ta, get the oil cooler off. It's got new seals that go on the back.

We i think we have a uh crank seal for the front and for the back and get them in there. We can start reassembling the heads i re, i painted all the tins. They are hanging out in the corner over there on the pallet and we can start getting some of the bits and pieces on it. I think clean or dirty.

I do have that. You know new oil just a couple of quarts of oil sitting in it, not bad. I don't see any chunks coming out of it anyway. My plan is to run it for a little bit with the oil that we have in it, we'll let it flush itself and then we'll run new stuff again through it all right, you'll get another filter for that.

Shouldn't have done that yeah there you go. Those are the two that we need to replace right there. They usually get brittle yeah, they're, pretty hard and over time, they'll uh just start leaking. Sometimes the oil coolers leak themselves too.

I'm not sure about this style on a beetle. They do. This may not be the same situation, essentially it's a little radiator and right out the same way we go see if i got new ones of those. We could pop that back on no they're, not the same color i feel like they might get yeah.

They get stuck on the block, not not on here, there's more of a recess all right! Well, that's! Fine! Let's uh! I'm gon na go clean that up a little bit bolt that back on. We need a little grease to hold them in place, or will they stay see how that does you'll know if you don't got it right. Was that what you want to do next, we can probably do this seal. Do the crank one when the uh when it's off this stand, because you got ta, take that flywheel back off the other end.

All right, i screwed up. I got one extra washer that one nope no one's got one. Here's your problem, let's go see if you have that crank seal front, pulley seal, i don't know what it's called just lock them down using a speed, wrench speed, wrench kind of keeps you out of trouble with this tiny hardware. What i mean by speed wrench, that's the speed wrench make you over torque stuff.

Let's go find that here's the kit that came with it called gaskets for the head. I don't see them. Do you well that sucks? Hmm, i wouldn't think i would have had to order them separate, especially the crank seal too. Hopefully, it's i'm gon na go check.

I think i have a beetle one and not that that's gon na help us for the the front seal, but well i didn't see that coming in at all i'll look again just in case it magically reappears like when you look over someone, you lost it all Right, weren't work, so that's the burned up engine, here's one for a regular beetle. It is nope, it's too small, close but too small. That sucks. I think that would have sucked more if i were to take and rip that one out with a screwdriver and then went looking for the new one.

Now we're just going to run what's in it for now, i actually think the front one we can get off. No problem: we could actually get that off uh in the car, it's not too bad, but the back one. You have to pull the motor again, not that that's terrible. Neither on this but kind of thing.

You want to do it while you're in there right, plus that flywheel is a different spacing slightly in the back, so you may already have an issue there. I think that heads ready to go on we're going to suck that on torque it down and do the same for both sides. Don't they look pretty, we need the ones that go underneath and i was having a problem when i was taking it apart. I was hanging up on these.

I kind of bent them down got the cylinder heads off the pushrod tubes are not like a beetle where they get squeezed in between the head and the block as you're assembling it. They actually get inserted later so you're able to pop these right up now put the push rod tubes in that one. In that one, i think anything else can i was hoping they were the same, that one's got a little extra appendage figure that out to get those pushrod tubes installed, get one. I like this setup better than the beetle ones for sure the other style is you're.

Trying to finagle the head-on and get all the head bolts started, it kind of fights. You eat their crush tubes. They have they take like a preload they're, not solving like this, give them a little bit of the assembly lube, let's go tap on it, so so for those push rod tubes, i guess that's what this spring does it goes down, so you can get it in There and holds tension. That's a little bit of light pressure on the end edges of those tubes.

Just they don't lift out. I don't think they're likely to do so, but i don't know and then the little cutaways that are in the rocker assemblies, that's what they lock into a little screwdriver to pop that one in actually wasn't too bad got to make sure i got them in the Right spot make sure they're pushing on all of them. What we'll do is we'll spin, it up haven't adjusted the valve yet we'll spin it up and let them settle a little bit and then we'll go around adjust the valves. Let's go give her a little spin.

Yeah, when i'll everything to settle a little bit before i adjust them, that did not sound good. I don't like that. I think it was a starter. I hope it was a starter, we're gon na find out, and he put my keeper in on this side.

Yet for the pushrod tubes, too, everything looks like it's moving. Okay, i'm gon na put that keeper in because just the valves that line right there, that's number one cylinder. So if i make the rotor point at number one close enough to go back it over here now i can adjust the valves on that zone. I'm going to both be for six now tight tight because it has all new.

You know new head gaskets and everything. So all the dimensions are going to be off now that stuff is going to stay the same. It's also why i kind of wanted to spin it a little bit. I'm just looking for light, drag on it a lot of times you go, you think you got it, but when you tighten the nut down, it'll change on you, so you just have to if it got tighter, you go the other way.

If you got looser, you fudge it a little. The other way before you tighten it that one's pretty good, not bad, they're gon na. Do that to all four cylinders, all right, they're, all adjusted. Let's get some numbers and as long as you stay above 90 and even is good too sometimes a big difference between them is not healthy.

It'll give a lopi idol, but let's see what we get my tool popped off: hey when that happens, joke there somewhere all right, try that again, 120., which is good. We had 145 on one before which is kind of weird being on the older side. Oh, that's starters, hey! I don't know if that flywheel that started it just does not sound healthy one. A little over 125.

we're gon na call it 125.. The other side was the side that was low. Before i did have the cylinder heads on the opposite sides. The driver's side is supposed to have the the temp probe on it, not that we're going to use it anyway, but are swapped, so that can make a difference, and hopefully, as long as these numbers are up around 100 we're good lost power hold on uh, 110.

115, which is i'm happy about we'll call 115., make me feel better. You see the other side. Barely huh batteries flashing we gon na make it come on. You could do it.

The pressure's got me. It said zero. I was like oh no walk in a 110 perfect nice throw within 10 pounds of each other 15 pounds i'll, go with that. So the first time around that we didn't have it spinning very fast.

We got like, i think it was 80 75, 75 and 70 and then we got a better starter on it. We got 125 140. I forget what the last two were before i think they're around. In the hundreds.

Now we swap the cylinder heads around clean them off: we've gone 120 125. This still is the strongest cylinder 110 and i'm more than happy with that. It should be. It should run just fine now that jinx myself all right.

Well, that's good! I'm going to go! Take some time and start chasing a bunch of the tins, putting all the metal work back on it's kind of boring if something is interesting to bring up i'll turn the camera back on we're gon na start, putting all the sheet metal, uh bits and pieces back On we should have to do the carb to at least pop the top and take a look at that and see what's going on with it. One last thing i want to do before we get too much further assembled. This is the oil pressure switch and that should that's the oil light being on. Like you turn, the key on the oil light would be on where's.

My crank button. We're gon na go crank it over see that light goes out see if we build oil pressure. Well, that's good! No huh! I'm gon na go! Maybe my oil level's not up high enough. I did dump two quarts in it, but it's been leaking a little out of the sides from turning on side to side yeah.

I got nothing on the stick but, like i said i had it leaning from side to side, so i may have dumped some out. Let's uh, throw another court court in half see if that registers no sense going forward. If you don't have oil pressure right and now we're on it, yeah a little low side, but that's okay should be enough to get it though there we go. Tell him comes it back on yeah.

Let's go: do it again come on in the hole and what afterwards is how much time it takes for the oil pressure to squeeze out of its little cubby holes and the pressure to drop back down? It's a little on the long side there it goes yeah. Usually it comes off fairly quick. It kind of tells you how tight the crank bearings are and everything, because the pores inside the block, where all the oil is able to squeeze back out when it's building pressure up that or the oil pressure switch, could just even be a little slow to respond. But it is getting oil pressure, i'm happy for that.

So i'm picking away putting the tins on there going through the pieces, the sauce one of the pipes are blown out, but the fan shrouds, let's take a look into them, start cleaning them up. One is the original one that was on the engine in the car, which was this one, and this is the one that came with the spare motor that was all rusty and crappy. So what the purpose of this is has a fan in the center of it. The fans right there runs right off the engine draws air in through the center blows it out across the cylinders, blows that across the cylinders - and it's got a thermostat set up on it.

It's a little linkage right here, a couple of paddles if it uh restricts i'll, show you this one, the flow of air. So when it's cold it'll be like that it's kind of blocking everything off so slowing stuff down and then, as it warms up, it opens the passage up to a full airflow. It's got a linkage, rod that goes across it and it's so you just as well stabbing my finger. I let go pops right back.

Well, here's the one that was on the car that was in there the rod is bent. If you try and operate it, it was just during the second cup. It was popping and hanging up. So if we got full thermostat, it would uh jam in one position.

The bars got a pretty good tweak to it. Let's just go down pop out. I got ta, do it two-handed straighten that out, so that we get a little bit better response out of it, so i'm gon na screw with that, but there's another thing too: i want to show you it has the thermostats that are underneath it. So this is the one that was on the engine in the car again and it's essentially an accordion as it heats up.

It expands as it cools off it shrinks down. Well, that was expanded. All the way out, like the car is hot, so that one is b, the uh beetle type engines have it too different setup, but this is the one that was on the parts engine. That's how it's supposed to look when it's cold.

Now that would make it run cold, all the time not run hot, but there still could have been a. You know, an issue with what was going on and the there was actually a knuckle. I forgot to mention it: there's a knuckle on the left hand, side inside that was popped over and hyperextended, let's see if i can crash everything onto the ground, so this knuckle was popped the other way and was operating in the wrong capacity and kind of jammed Itself up so that could have played a major role in it too again, i'm not quite sure, i'm just guessing, but it's interesting that we found it anyway. I'm gon na try swapping those thermostats around.

It's not gon na leave it in the cold position and i will have to hunt one down they're. Not i don't believe they're they're the same as the beetle. I'm gon na go. Take this one apart, possibly and see if i can save that, and it has to be able to encapsulate a cable.

This is the cable right here and that's runs through a little wheel underneath and hooks to that floppy door as the temperature changes, and this is in the exhaust flow uh, the not the exhaust flux, the hot air flow. So this would be right roughly down in here, and what happens is that fan is blowing air across the fins down it aces exits it that flow out underneath the engine with heater boxes and other heat shields and all well. This is in the path of that air. That's gone through the jugs, so, as the jugs are putting off more and more heat, this will open up, get hotter, open the vents up top.

Let more air flow across the drugs cool it back down as it cools back down this shrinks back down and it you know it finds its happy medium. That's how it operates. You can get it with a nine problem. Is you can't really put heat on it? It's a thermostat you're, not enough heat to cook it up to get a glowing because you'll kill it.

It's a sealed chamber on the other side. So far, so good, let's see if the ascendant want to come loose, we need a 13. For that. I was expecting much more of a fight good.

These things are expensive. I know on the beetles there i'm sure on this. They really are. It's got a different end on it than what a beetle would have.

So i'm gon na go clean, that up i'll gut that bracket and i'll swap everything over put that underneath. Well, i guess they should make sure it works before we put it all together. It'll be a good time. If i want to put an oxygen sensor in see, if i can weld that up make a patch for it, it's blown out down there too.

It's like somebody tried welding it with something coat, hanger, not sure so just got done, bolting up the front fan assembly and that's got the with the heat ducts in it. We were talking about earlier and now that everything's kind of hooked up and lined up, you can see how you know spring loaded. It wants to bounce back and the cable comes up from the bottom from that thermostat there's a little pulley on the bottom. So right now is in the totally hot, so you want flaps like this.

It will make it so that all the air is blown over the top of the cylinders and then, when it's cooler you're more this direction. That's what this cable is coming up, i'm just going to go clamp that on roughly in that position, as that thermostat opens up the vents open up and as it cools off, it draws them back, shut again, pretty simple actually, and it should fail. If there's a problem with the cable or something break, it should fail in the wide open. You know open thermostat, get ready to throw the intake on and took the car off, because we're gon na have to go through that, but here's the center of that plenum.

Definitely looks like water got into the intake and it's kind of what i'm i was talking about on the first one, where it looked possibly down the hatch where the hatch, the roof line came down. There was a break and then the air cleaner. I wanted sitting on to the top of the air cleaner, with two bolts were maybe pooling to the center of the bolt running down the center of the carving it was parked outside so make a white that was so cruddy and the intake when we took the Heads off too had all that crap on them, so there's a different bottom end, but this is the original. You know feed system because we're not going with fuel injection, i'm gon na throw that in sandblaster.

You get all that crap out of there i'll paint the box get some tubes on there, and i know i keep promising we'll cut into this thing and see what the insides of this look like. If water went through it there's a good possibility, maybe even gotten into the float poles. Oh time will tell plenty plenum time. Yeah checking out the intake.

You actually see where water filled up the center of it and ran down, looks like it only did the one side that'd be the one that we saw that flakiness on top of the piston. Maybe i don't know i'm just kind of jumping in and showing little bits and pieces here, but the wrenching part of it i'm trying to get us up to the point where we fire it up: j-tubes but tips and tricks i'm going to throw in as we Go along j-tubes are connected by little rubber bushings adapters. Wait. What do you want to call sleeves all right, we'll go with sleeves.

Our petrified is a rock kind of same as like a intake boot on a motorcycle yeah hard as a rock. You soak them in hot water, they will come back, you can work them get them installed. They'll stretch out what they need to do and clamp down. They will go back soon as they cool off.

They will go back to almost rock hard again, but it allows you to work with them without tearing them up and you know cracking them or breaking them and just plain fighting with them. I'm pretty sure that's where they go took each one. I see them blasted. It rained water through it then they're in compressed air.

Through them they had a bunch of crap inside them too. One of the tubes is really rusty internally and we think we need them all facing. I get it start them on that first laughs. It would help greatly you took the clamps, make sure the clamps weren't all the way, closed kind of defeating the purpose.

Let's try that again. Well, so so you think the chances are no they're going to have sparkling. I'm gon na go upstairs and see. If i got ta, i might have a pair.

If not, i already drew a vacuum. Now i get a piece of vacuum hose: there's a vacuum hose on there and if i draw on it, it'll make the plate on the bottom turn as a diaphragm inside here and whenever you're, trying to rev an engine or give it more gas. You have to advance the timing, and that is part of it. It's a vacuum advance underneath there there's a set of weights essentially and as it just mechanically spins faster they come out and they also give it advance.

You usually grab the rotor and, however much that rotor moves. That's how much advance is on the bottom side. That's yeah, it's that is for when you let off the gas and it kind of helps with. I think the idea is for emissions and possibly backfiring, i'm not quite sure, most of the time you just leave it unplugged.

If your system has it fine, but i think it's more, i'm pretty sure it's for admissions when you let off you're bogging down a hill, i'm gon na leave that funky rotor on there. I stopped to do the points, but i'm gon na leave that goofy rotor on there with the uh rev limiter. It comes out and shorts out someone's saying, it'll say right on it. What rpm it cuts out heat's coming on! You see it.

I don't see it 58.50, it's pretty high. This was in a uh. This was this. Is the 914 engine i keep getting screwed up all right, i'm gon na go.

Do points i'll be back. I think we're down to the last piece of the puzzle, and that would be carb. It's already had evidence of water going through it. It kind of depends on how the inside of the football looks.

Don't have a carb kit for this. It's got a good and i would suspect that the accelerator pump diaphragm is probably going to be no good. Just because that's what they do, we got a little linkage here. It has to come off.

What's that held on by a little tiny, tiny clip i'm going to launch across the room? What's that one? It's got the tag, at least that's good! You order carb kits they want that number! That's on there. I think, there's water that needs to come off. You think we got it, we take out five. Let's go, give that a crack judging by the rotten fuel leaking out, and it's not looking like a good sign.

Is it let's give her a thorough beating? I goes take your bets. What are we going to find? Okay, that link is you got me get up. I can turn it sideways choke there come on out of the hole jesus there. We go a lot of rusting in the bottom and say that's terrible.

It definitely needs to be cleaned. Let's get and see. I need a punch for that. Do i, okay, get it with a little little pliers.

It's just gon na slip right off of there. It is give her a push. The needle looks really good, not a bunch of crap, on that at all, it looks like it was last used when fuel was still fuel before i start putting booze in it get some jets out of it. Just having a conversation today, someone see those cards, you can just kind of take a part get back together in the same stuff.

It doesn't fit. Well. Here's an example right here, so these jets - and i bet you those are the same physical size. You can remember that that says 132, i'm sure you're not even say the same thing, yeah one four, all right so now for now, i'm going to lay them out.

Why would they be different? Oh, that's why yeah they're not firing at the same time, and then we got one on top 170 to the right sounds good huh sounds like what i sound like when i'm waking up he's out of bed yeah, it's a 170 on that side or holy crap. How many are yelling at me right now to put lube on it? Yes, there is a joke there, too, all right just already mixed and mixed them up today, the more corroded one was on the left. Yes, i did i'll look back at the footage. Let's go get our squirters out of there, so when you stomp on the gas, that's where it squirts out of those little two windshield washer, looking jobs there, your accelerator pump, because you need an extra shot of fuel when you're punching it or a little bog.

It'll fall on its face. That's what the accelerator pump does and that's that little diaphragm. I was talking about earlier. That goes bad.

It's probably an idle jet. First, one of these i ever had a part so that one's clogged that goes on that side losing my balls, don't only be losing my balls. Little check balls did not see where they fell. Out of.

Do you, i think they made. It came out of the squirter that meat is totally clogged down below too. I don't think they had to crud in it. Is there another access to that? No and that's what we got.

Let's go. Get our accelerator pump off. I'm gon na leave the choke components together. I don't see really a good reason to remove all that.

I think we'll soak it in the ultrasonic cleaner with that facing up this, on the other hand, is going to be weather whether we get a squirt or not. I bet you, this is gon na, be petrified, it's my guess now, there's a spring underneath there and that's what every time that you stomp on it that pushes down it gives a shot of fuel up to those jets. I think that is gon na end. Up being junk, but we're going to run it anyway, let's see if i can get a little there, we go kind of don't rip yeah.

That was a rock. I need one of those. Maybe what i will do. I was thinking we soak it for tonight.

I can come back tomorrow, put it together, so you can grab it carb kit anywhere, all right. That is totally clogged huh. Although i still want to fire this engine up tonight, i think we'll uh, so you have the capacity to get us a carb kit. That's what was getting me that linkage yeah i want to move, sounds not too bad a soaking.

She will go. I was able to get those last two pulled up. You can definitely see that one's supposed to be blocked off. You see the the hole size difference in the metering.

That's why it's important to keep likes on like side that annoying noise in the background is the ultrasonic cleaner, doing its business on our curb rotator. So the biggest problem with this whole setup is it's sucking in its own hot air. So essentially, air comes in through this fan blows across the tins across the um fins on the cylinder heads and the cylinders and exits out the bottom and the mufflers right here. Also, there's a lot of hot air exits.

The back of the car, mostly like under the car like if this was in a bus there would be a seal that goes all the way around and then comes down here and seals this part of the engine away from this part. This is totally sealed off. The muffler is totally sealed and there's fins in the side of the bus up high on each quarter panel. It sucks cool air in through the fan, heats everything up and it's expelled out the bottom, and this is all pretty much the muffler sitting right here.

There's no guarding there's nothing in between. So the hot air that's coming out from underneath is getting sucked right back in and that's more likely what cooked that first engine that was in here. It was just not segregated good enough with the temperature, so we got to come up with something to fix that. So it doesn't happen again: let's go take a peek at the car, so the car does have like vents up here that appear to go down the quarter panels and you see oh there's a hole.

It's like airs to get allowed to get in with that again. The base of that is right about here and on a bus. All this would be sealed off now. This is just open to itself.

We either try to maybe seal that off better when we get it back in possibly what we can do is like on a it's like a square back, there's a rubber boot that goes from that inlet to the back of the car and draws cool air in That way, we do not have that on this, but possibly we can maybe even do something. If we take this out of here, maybe we could punch a circle right dead center and make like a you know. We could do like the uh, the batmobile, the cone that comes out for the uh thrust. Maybe you can get something like that if it especially if you're able to match, we want to match those that look kind of cool actually well we'll get to that.

A little bit later, i just want to show you that, where the ultrasonic cleaner is humming away, see if we see anything else, i'm not sure what he uses for a voltage regulator and where it is i'm guessing. I don't know if that's it right there. I think so it feels like that's the plug for the then it might have wiring out back. I see this battery terminal.

I would think that looks like a battery sits right in that location. Over here we have some fun ahead of us figuring all that crap out huh, so well digging through the parts pile this build. I did find the rear tin. I guess that was on the actually on this engine, which was 9 14..

So this is the piece that would block the difference between that muffler and cut off that whole area. That was not on the car. I don't know if that can fit in there, but we'll screw with that. First and as you can see, it's drawing air from a different direction and we can separate it and then again it still needs a seal.

That goes all the way around missing. Something here goes all the way around and seals that off and i think when we first took it out, it seemed like i had a decent amount of uh, not that happening, let's just say so, we'll see possibly at least it's something to work with. Maybe we can work with that and you'll make some pieces to fill the panel out. You got to remember that the the engine shakes out moves, so you get whatever it is, has to be a like a foam or a rubber that ties the two together yeah.

I don't think much fuel was going through that yet well, i'm a tad bit surprised, but i was able to find the carp kit in stock and the main seal for the crank. So i'm gon na just go knock that out put it back together and let's go speed this up a little bit and get to the good part. I thought it showed up, but there is a diaphragm that goes into the choke on an angle like that and there's a pull-off. It also has a temperature spring in it that gets power and, as it heats up, it'll pull the choke off.

There's a big coiled up spring inside there as that spring gets hotter. It changes its position, but you can find tuna. That's what these notches are for here and you see there's no choke a little bit more. I'm going to set it probably about right in the middle, it's a good spot for me and we'll we'll see how that does over time.

When we go to run the car and you can kind of fine tune it from there. The distributor is not going to work. This carburetor does not have an exit port for the vacuum, advance that i showed, i'm not sure would have been plugged in probably on the base somewhere, possibly that plug right. There may have had a tube coming out of it to grab vacuum and there's no place on the intake manifold.

That distributor was the one that was on the uh, the fuel injected motor and i had different ports for that coming out. So we're going to swap the distributor over to the one that is still on the other block that was in the car had this carburetor on it, and that is just that. Just has centrifugal advance, that's it! I am looking for that's where a throttle cable hooks into. I actually think we were out of pieces all new goodies.

That's not for it all right, we'll get her installed. Well, we are to these points, putting gas in it, see where that goes too. Eventually, it should stop. I think we're good.

Let's get her up to about that much. Let me get the jumper pack hooked up. We have to hook so the point side is already hooked to the negative side of the coil and we got to put 12 volts on this side and you got 12 volts that should go into the carb. That will help warm the choke up and turn that off, i'm going to leave that disconnected for now, and maybe we'll just jam a screwdriver or something not too concerned about that.

This is going to put power out so we'll keep this away from harm's way. This is the alternator output. I think we're good. I don't see anything else.

That's in our way speak now, forever hold your peace all right. Let's get some power and make some power. This is gon na go really good or it's gon na suck, i'm hoping for the good all right. This is our 12 volts to the coil.

I just cleaned those points that i put in there. I did not put new ones in because i couldn't find them, so we may or may not have spark. Shall we give her all right sounds good, dude and out of gas sounds awesome. Let's go fill it up.

Try it again see if we can back that choke off until we get out of play, you can get it with two nope. I don't hear any valve stopping not that you can hear it anyway, but let's go that way and our gas is filled all the way up to the top. We have an air fuel mix down below. I can try and dial in and see if we can get to clean up a little smoother, but i think it needs to kind of warm up.

You can do that more in the car. You want to go right about here. Jason shoots that on fire, let's go: let's go over round. Two looks like i'm forgetting so find out.

Yeah it's out of gas again sounds awesome. Huh burn off some paint. I don't see anything dripping out of it and no valve tapping noises. No knocking noises.

Awesome. Awesome awesome, i'm psyched great and i literally did not use any new parts, the carb kit and the engine gasket set, and that's it. Everything that was on was between the two engines that we put together from the um here from the uh, even the plug wires. Everything plugs kill power to it.

It's going to burn off a bunch of paint too awesome. Awesome cool. Is that so we're in it for cheap, and i got a good education on these type 4 motors, how they kind of go together, they're, not bad at all. They really aren't it's just getting used to compared to a regular.

You know beetle type engine and again, like i said i swapped the distributor over to the other one. It doesn't have the vacuum vaping, because that carb doesn't have a port for it and we'll see how that operates, and she just burned off some crap. Oh there's a bunch of cleaning fluid, that's on the inside of that cover and all too nothing's on fire. Hopefully, all right guys, i think, with that we're going to sign off.

We got to the point i want to get uh on the car. The next thing is probably we're going to go, prep it and get it ready to put the engine in. So we got ta, you know change the transmission, fluid look at the motor mounts for the trans, that kind of stuff; anything that we need to go. Take care of we'll go jump on uh clutch pedal, clutch cable, throttle cable, that kind of stuff, and that will probably be on the next one, because i got to get this off the lift.

I got some other stuff that my daily drivers need a little bit of love, i'm going to take care of them, but i want to get to at least a point where yard drives. After that, really you know we just got to go: go through breaks and drive chain components clean up the body some, but there's you know, i'm not gon na go paint this right away. All right, i'm babbling! Now i'm psyched, i'm just like that ring good guys until the next one i'll see you soon. Thanks for hanging out take care.

You.