That's the old, colin chapman. The mantra is making them lighten up and blow enough and they don't get any horsepower good good. So you think it's probably like the 70s kind of thing it's been there or uh. Well, i can ask i'm gon na there was no uh inspection sticker on the windows or anything, no okay.

I have no idea, i would say at least since the 80s or 90s, but it may have been the 70s as well gotcha um. So here's uh another picture: where was being stashed, yep there's about five thousand square foot, that's an austin in the background, correct kind of that yeah looks like it was there for a little while yeah are you taking pictures? Is this just a video video? Okay? That makes it easier, uh yeah. It was there quite some time, certainly long enough to gather a lot of dust and parts get things stuck on it, hey guys and how's it going. So i grabbed this 1970 amante gt kit car based on a vw chassis, not a beetle.

It's a type three which is karmann ghia, squareback, fastback style, they're wider than what a beetle is and uh the back story on it is. It came from an estate that uh gentleman passed away and his family was cleaning out all the cars that were on there. This guy had a lot of cars, actually ended up, buying two cars, i'll show you another one and another date. But again i got this about three months ago and it's been packed over here in the corner.

I've uh been working on the car with which i just got done getting finished and that got off the lift. So i think we can kind of go jump over to this one. This one. I know the engine does not turn it is locked up, so you know 95 chance that we are going to be pulling this engine out on this video and getting into it.

But let's start getting into the car and seeing what it is and what it has to offer, and you know just the dynamics of it. It is a door slammer, a lot of times, you'll see them where the it has like a goal wing door on them, and they flip up pulling me in the door goes up on an angle on the side like that and closes. This is a regular door. Slammer, i actually prefer these better.

It uh operates a lot nicer, those it's a fiberglass body and on those they kind of have a tendency to get all kitty whompus and not close well, and you know it just they don't hold up over time until you. You know this car is 50 years old, so you can still see the door jam and gaps are fairly decent and it you know you open and close, and they slam just like a regular car. Does the hideaway headlights is a mechanical bar that comes down under the dash? You lift them up, they open and close the headlights and hide them got some funky interior. I don't know if we're gon na need a light, does not have external external door handles.

I think you're supposed to put the key in, and maybe the key is how you pop the lock so for right now, there's a pair of vice grips on the inside, like i said it opens just like a regular car door that big old 8-track player. That's in the dash, you see we'll come back and we have some light. Get a better look at it. I would consider a sports car yeah.

It's a body lines of clothes. Is nice huh body lines of uh. I don't know maybe like a 240z or actually kind of reminds me of that. The prototype mustang almost had to look something like this bumper's a little on the ugly side.

Yeah sandal looks a little like a uh, a cobra. Doesn't it the taillights look familiar? I want to say they may be there. Impala bumpers are kind of powertrain is so you can get it open there. That is a two two-liter engine out of a 914 porsche that is locked up so and the other thing is, he just has no history about it.

Neither he doesn't know you know, was he driving it and it was locked up, and you know the person who owned it isn't around anymore. They asked those questions and the guy that i got it from was more of a middleman who was hired to uh um. You know liquidate the estate, so that's why i came along made an offer for it, but it's pretty straight. You know it's got, you know scratches and stuff, but i don't see any busted fiberglass anywhere on it.

Everything looks fairly tight as far as that's concerned. All right enough, gavin, let's get this thing up over on the lift, we'll get it up in the air and take a look at what the other side looks like and we'll start getting into what its issues are and see what it takes to fix. It. Don't stop them.

Let's go see what we got. I have not been under this other than crawling around on the floor. I've not seen it up on the lift. We have to look at.

That's where the master cylinder is. I would probably suspect you're leaking stuff out drum brakes in the front. That's a bumper! Let's try! What that is! Got coil overs to help the front out different the front suspension on a beetle or a type three is inside these tubes. There's springs that go across the floors.

Don't look terrible, i do know there's some soft spots. I remember from up top pushing down on some spots and it was kind of crunchy there. It is, and there's your crunchy, i wouldn't say that's terrible though air shocks in the back got suede control. That looks like it's broken off.

It's just hanging supposed to grab the axle on the other. That is that for suede control. Is that out also to help with the rear suspension, yeah type 2, with no mustache bar? Usually this engine, this style engine it bolts to the transmission? The transmission has a mount on it back on the back side and then there'll be another bar that goes across here and picks up some of the way the engine it does not have would be right here. Here's the mounts where it would go.

I do not have that it does not look terribly beat up. I do not see a bunch of mouse damage, i'm kind of surprised that it's stuck, it may be it's stuck just from sitting. You can see it leaking some oil, the rest of it, looks fairly decent and drum brakes on the back swing axle, so that is 1967 and older chassis. I think i looked the numbers up on it actually came out.

The 1965 karman gear is the pan. That's under it little steel reinforcements for the sides, all right: let's go, i'm going to roll back a little bit, so the engine hangs off the engine, the end of the little duct tape. I'm not sure why there's a window here cut open for the sway bar there's a trunk in the front that you can open and there's a gas heater up there too, so they did not use the regular vw feet. Normally the heater boxes right here where this header is there would be heater boxes on on this side of the engine that are not there.

They would pump heat into the car up by those tubes right there. They have been removed and there's a gas heater in there, everybody figured they didn't need it. You can go with a bunch of different drive, transit uh. I looked up the uh corvair engine.

Six cylinder can go in here, a regular beetle edge. You can go in this trance. You could actually take this right out. We just put a 1600 upright.

If this is totally shot, we can't fix it a little funkiness going on with. I haven't seen that kind of starter post set up all right. Let's get her back off a little bit and these all hanging, oh they go to uh get the valve covers off pop. A couple of valve covers i'll.

Take a quick peek. It looked like it was putting all that along there. The hardware for the bolts, oh the lights, came in the hardware for the bolts is clean. It's new, it's not all cruddy and rusty they're, all kind of squeezed up inside here.

Let's see the valkyr off looks like somebody's already had it off. I can see marks on it right there. My guess is that i probably would have dropped a valve on number. Three is the common area that they fail number three.

This is number three cylinders. Number four cylinder right here from the driver's side of the car. Let's get, did you see some funky corrosion up inside there? I don't know where all this crap is all this stuff. That's growing on the inside of it, i would have had water in it.

I'm looking, i'm gon na need to move. You i'll show you a little bit. This there's looks like water in the bottom of the valve cover, let's get the rocker assembly off on this side and what i'm looking for is if the valve stem keeps coming. So if i pull these rockers off, if that valve keeps coming out, then we know it's got a bad uh drop.

The valve has to chew it up and that's the most prime cylinder. I was expecting to do that. You know you can see it's like a rusty crud, that's sitting in the bottom, the rest of the uh cylinder head. The metal is pretty clean.

All this area is all nice and clean. That's hard to show you it's really decent. It's all prodded up, maybe somebody just got a little overzealous and over-revved her, but let's get ahead of herself all right. Let's get these out shoot we got so so that's a good sign.

We said i didn't drop a valve, nothing saying that the bottom end isn't locked up, but what has me concerned is the amount of corrosion that is up on here and i'm wondering if this inside the cylinders look the same. I put the car in gear and rocked it back and forth, and it just skids the tires. It is definitely locked up. It's not going to move pretty much at all.

We may try opening it up a little bit uh. I think we're still going to go forward, we're pulling it probably pull the heads off. If the cylinders are all kicked up, then we know that that's what we need to do take them apart, probably clean them up, but we have to get new, pistons and cylinders, but i think i want to see if i can access the front pulley and we'll Get a breaker bar on it, we'll just kind of rock it back and forth a little bit see if we get anything uh, it's been a little while, i think possibly they said they even may have put oil in it and tried it. But let me get you a little better view of what i'm looking at.

You can kind of see. You see the rust on things, so i'm kind of wondering because it looks like it's fresh. The engine looks like somebody put it in there not that long ago. I don't think it was rebuilt when they put it in there, because you know the paint's all crappy, but even just like looking at like where the muffler is, it's all new hardware to get the engine out, you got to take the muffler off because it's it's Right up against the body, so that would have to get dropped down out of the way first, anyway, all right, there is a cover right there, i'm going to get that cover.

Often we can see some a little bit more daylight from up above i always even get a breaker bar on that there you go we're back up top you're saying what do you got for oil? I know seem to remember being okay, but again that was a few months ago. I could be mixing that up with something else. That's fine clean, overly clean, so the cover i want to get off is right in front of you. It's that black.

This is this one right here: you could turn over the generator, but then you're kind of working with the belt, and i think i think, there's a nut in the center there. Let me get this out of the way, so i popped that cover off and i'm looking at it look at the setup of this. The way the hatch is and the roof slopes down onto here, and i see the style of air cleaner that is in here. I'm wondering if water kind of came down went into the air cleaner and filled up one of the drug jugs and caused it to rust.

Up, i just a hunch. Now i would have to go uphill. It had to go uphill if the throat was level. I could see that happening or possibly running into where the where the screws are, but even with that doesn't look like there's enough room for it to go up and around it looks like a web or two barrel.

That's on there, too. I think i peeked down there see if i see anything that looks like water again, because the inside that valve cover had all that that moisture and crud that looked like it was growing on. There actually has three bolts on there, so we can't get anything on it. I kind of wanted to not have to deal with the belt part of it.

You know, because the belt's just gon na slip, let's pull a plug or two for three or four see. If we can peek down inside the cylinder, see if you actually see anything so that's the plugs, i do not see anything funky on them and they even had never seas on them. So whoever was taking care of. It was looking to really take care of it and no rust on any of them.

One, two three and four cylinder they'll look pretty good. I know we're taking a picture of a picture, but that is the spark plug hole and dark. Actually that that's the light reflecting on itself that is in that is sitting in liquid, whether that is water or somebody put oil in and try to get it to turn. Maybe that's what they did, but that is a reflection and the spark plug hole is from the top straight down into the cylinder, cylinders laying on its side, and it's got some kind of fluid in it could even be gas.

Let's um, i wonder if i can get a little uh squeezy bottle in there will suck out whatever the contents are. I have a feeling somebody probably just put oil in there to see if they can get it to turn. That's my guess and go take a look at the other cylinders, real, quick and i'll. Let you know what i find yeah, that's the top of the piston there's a score square.

Hatches then, there's rust sitting on the bottom, so maybe it may be just rust seized to the cylinder uh. I don't know why. There's fluid only in one: let's go again like i said: let's go probe that maybe stick a q-tip or something down inside there and see what comes out of it. Probing.

I believe i hit the bottom of the cylinder yeah. That's a oil. Somebody put oil in there to try to get the turn. That's not water, but it didn't work well.

We either have an issue where the cylinders are just rusted up and the pistons are froze in their location or the crank is seized, and then you know somebody just tried shooting oil in there because they weren't sure what was going on either way. I think we should probably just pull the motor out anyway get a good look at everything pop the cylinder heads off. It would be, you know, advisable to get them to get honed out. If we pop the cylinders off, we get them free and we find out that it is not moving.

Then we know it's the crank on the bottom end and then we have another avenue to go chase all right. Well, i'm going to get into it. I'm going to start pulling this motor. I don't know if i'm going to show all that part of it be able to get to the point where yanking it and throwing it on the bench and getting it into it.

Jimmy's pulling a bug motor, not much difference. It's been a process, i'm both in the engine and i'm trying to figure out why this is the charging system wires. So is that and they're not even hooked up doesn't even look like they were ever hooked up. The throttle, cable.

Is there? It's not hooked up and then the fuel filter is not hooked up and it has new bolts in it. I'm having a feeling as a guess on my part that i am wondering if there's a mismatch between the engine and the transmission and they have the wrong clutch in it possibly and it is locked up and maybe when they bolted it up it never spun. After that, that's just a guess on my part, i got two more bolts left in, but i do not see it wired up. None of the wires are hooked to any of the coil, nothing that from the external part of the car is tied into the engine.

So, possibly again, look how new that hardware is like it was literally just put on there and it was never run with that engine in there. I wonder if that's what's going on, possibly uh, just a mismatched clutch that'd be nice, wouldn't it! The other thing, too, is uh. This chassis is a 65. If that transmission is a 65, it's going to be a six volt transmission.

You know what does that mean? Well, six volt transmission has a smaller flywheel would have had a smaller flywheel. Now you could put a 12 volt flywheel on it: one's 180 millimeters the other one's 200 millimeters, but you have to clearance it. So if that wasn't done up a little, if that wasn't done, then the flywheel's just gon na jam into it too. Again, that's just to guess: what's going on right now, but go see if we can drop that down a little bit that'd be about one of the easiest cars to swap engines on is vw's.

For the most part, some of them are a little on the tricky side, but let's get that down a little bit, i'm hitting on the lift. Let me go see if i can turn that we can go put a wrench back on the motor again real quick. No still my turn wishful thinking. I do have a problem where i have the car stuck between the engine and the lift i'll show you yeah.

That might be an issue. It's not going to come down any lower like that uh. I could probably just wiggle the whole hand truck back a little bit so that that clears. Let's do our best, not to drop it.

On the floor. That's gon na be tight. Car has to roll back a little bit. You got it.

Oh, she comes. Let's take a quick peek at look at that flywheel. What it'll do it'll grind a bunch of metal from the teeth clearancing in the bell housing? You have to grind these points down. That's like a 12-volt transit.

I don't think it's a six-volt. Maybe they changed it with it that thraw, bearing was growly, didn't want to turn. What's that, hey, let's go get it in the engine, stand we'll get a better look at it from there. That's a lot of rust come on.

Let's go wheel that over to where the tool boxes are. The big bench gives us a place to stretch out and take a bunch of parts off. The exhaust is looking a little crowdy huh. We got some rust kind of happening inside there.

What if it went a little underwater, i don't see any you know you think the interior would have a funky funky myth. It's got a funkiness to it anyway, but you know funky funkiness to it. Well, we got it out and all the restrictions off of us just shits and giggles, let's see if we can give a little flywheel without breaking a tooth off nope she's stuck start whittling. My way down took the back: pin off got the bolts off the intake, so you can get them to come.

Free might be able to get the. I don't there's a bolt in the center holding that plenum yeah. There is, as you can see, we probably could have took it all together, but not happening. Oh boy.

I think i found a problem, one of them anyway, i'll bring you there in a second. Let me get the other intake off hey this side, doesn't look too bad, i do see, looks like either oil or something inside that one cylinder when we come over here. Oh boy, yeah, that valve is definitely stuck inside. That head water definitely went down inside that one jug, which is number three, not that that was anything to do with calling number three, the one that always fails.

This is due to you know just water. Getting into that one cylinder is definitely oh. Yeah switch. This light around, so we can point there, we go yeah and that looks pretty good.

Let's continue on we'll get down to get that cylinder head off of there and i have a feeling we're going to go. Pull that away we're going to see a bunch of corrosion around those jugs, and hopefully the crank is okay. We still have to drain the oil on it. That'll tell us to have a bunch of water comes out, got all the screws out of this tin.

Let me rephrase that i think i have all the screws out. They put a aftermarket oil pressure switch in and it's a a gauge type with a hose. That's what i'm hung up on, so you can get a little bit a little bit of tweaking room there. It goes yeah that right there they put in normally it's just a uh yeah oil pressure switch which just has a wire going to it.

Let's see blow by terrible on it, but we got to get this cylinder head off. We can get. We can flip it outside, let's get the oil out of it and i think we just can get away with this bracket and then take the screws off and get the cylinder head off and you know go right to the carnage. No, there wasn't water coming right out of the bottom.

That oil looks really thick, though got ta turn that straight up, so it can do its thing there. It is i'm going to continue uh get some of this tin off of here in this exhaust manifold. While that's draining, let's go for side, two, there's a cable for the thermostat on this side, plus all the wires. Nothing jumps out at me.

That is trashed, that's good, so the whole front assembly has to come off so that there's a couple of engine tins right here that won't allow the head to come off. It's not got to come apart, get cleaned up anyway, but i think i have all the bolts out. I guess so that was easy all right. This is one of the tins right here that wraps around the head and get that one out and this one i got to get out, but i got to get the oil cooler.

I can't see what i'm talking about kenny yeah. The oil cooler is blocking me from getting this tin out of the way which is wrapped around the cylinder head, not allowing the head to get pulled back oil cooler, 10 10 get some head all right, we're all unbolted, not meaning that that's going to come off, But it's all bolted, let's give her some little shaky taps wow. Sometimes it's hard to be me. I think it's a little bit here.

You think your chances are now just falls right off there we go. We are in the white powder that poured out of the cylinder yeah somebody poured some oil in it to try to get it to go free, but this cylinder not so much. Let me get you closer here. We go almost like.

There was a fire in there. It's almost it's ash. Well, there was a fire in there literally, but it's like ash a ton of ash in there that sounded looks pretty decent. Now we're gon na go blow that out something's.

Weird, though, why does the top of that look so different? Let me get the light away from a little it just. It looks totally different than that cylinder as far as like carbon and everything built up on and that one doesn't seem to have any. I wonder if i just had to pull this tin down a little and it would have came away. That's still on there yeah all right.

Let's go blow that off of there. We should probably get the one off the other side too. Now that we know how to do it and uh maybe try to get the cylinders off and see if she'll turn my turn now. Actually, let's uh grab a little screwdriver.

What i mean by that is because this cylinder can move it can lift up off of the uh kind of which way it needs to go. No, not yet. Let's get that second side off of there see, i already did take that screw out. So that was not the issue, but i got ta pull down on that tin wherever it is, but i'm stubborn i'll deal with it later that way.

Ah, we're in the head doesn't look too bad, don't think anything jumping out at us there a little bit of blow-by right there, not terrible though, let's see we got cylinders, yeah somebody definitely shoved oil down in there huh, that's not enough yeah. They look decent that that one's got that same kind of i don't know if it overheated. It's got like this weird flaking of the carbon off of it, but i don't see anything, that's hard to say, go see if we can get a couple of cylinders off. That'll really start telling the story see how well they want to uh cooperate.

Now they get. These out of the way, and then i can get to the two screws that are on the bottom, you get a screwdriver on them. You just couldn't get when they're stuck, you couldn't get any torque on them. So that's where the shaking break can get the shaking break down in there.

This is an air hammer and a hammer is on the tip of the screw. You get it to turn, but now i get it and then, when putting it back together, it's easy because they're already loose. So i took a punch and i numbered them just punched on the jug one dot and one dot and cylinder two dots, two dots. So, just you know the orientation when you go to put them back together, so they're a match set: okay, i'm trying not to break the fins.

I'm trying to hit square down on them get a little bit of rock out of it. If i can, i'm not seeing that one move at all, so i'm gon na work on this for a while. So i don't have to go fast forward and make it sound like woody woodpecker, i'm gon na try to work them off, get one off get one off and get an idea. What happened as you may notice.

I was beating on it a little bit and trying to get it to go, and it's just not having it. I was able to get a metal wedge, something like that. There's another one laying around over there and i kind of hammered it in between the two back and forth. I can get this jug to rock a little, but that's about it.

All of them are really seized into the bore. I don't know if it's the piston being stuck to the cylinder, not allowing it to come out at all or if it's just the cylinder is stuck into the case, really bad, so i'm gon na let them soak overnight. I got some kerosene in there we'll let that do its thing and run down. I have a feeling, possibly maybe it overheating they locked it right up from overheating now that i'm kind of getting into it and that's why all that ash was in there.

That cylinder was just literally burning up and that's the one that gets it uh, the most, i'm not sure, on two liters, but on all the upright vw engines. This is a cylinder that runs hot due to the fan shroud, how it exits around it and just kind of looking at the color of the jugs. I wonder if it was cooked. The insulation on this car was not that great.

It did not look like. I had a good area for cool air to come in on a bw air cooled engine generally. It takes the air in from the top the cool air and deposits it underneath the car and out, and then the bottom of the engine is sealed to well about midway around the engine is sealed so that any of the hot air that comes out of the Exhaust and gets exit at the bottom does not recirculate back in and come in on this one. It wasn't like that was all open, so that may have been what the issue was and it just cooked itself, i'm just yeah kind of just guessing we'll.

Let that set up see what happens well, guys it's the next day, and i let it soak, and i tried coming back with my little wedge, tapping back and forth on it and i'm able to run that in there i get a little bit of movement out Of the jug on the right, but still not feeling like i'm going to be able to get that out of there. I was thinking if we can kind of make a wedge that can catch the fins and make something we can crank up off of there and push off of it. But i decided to look into it a little further and i also found out that this is probably a 1.7 or a 1.8. But if you look down, one of the lifters fell out of the bore and i could see a bunch of rust.

I think that's too much light come out right there. There is a bunch of rust down around that camshaft, whether that's crap that just fell in or it is all rusty, i'm starting to think what happened was. Maybe this thing got water in it. Somebody drained the oil and put fresh oil in it was trying to get it to move, maybe put it in the car, rocked it back and forth, but could not get it to turn over and it crapped out.

So i think, possibly, instead of us taking all the effort to try to figure out get the jugs off with condition there in let's see if we can get the oil strainer off. If there's a way we can kind of peek into the bottom end. Just take a quick look and see if it's all crowded up, it's all crowded up and being a say, a 1.7 liter i'd rather just build a beetle motor instead of trying to put all the effort into this one, but before we get there, let's go open. It up see if we can open it up and take a peek on the bottom end, a little bit better down below.

I did not see too much corrosion or water damage rust out of these sitting in the bottom again, where that cam is, you can kind of see a little bit of crap? I don't know if that fell in or it does have some water that got in i'm still undecided on what happened to that. Unfortunately, i've been working on this. I don't know another half hour, 45 minutes trying to get those jugs to move and i can get a wedgie and i try to work on the other side and get a wedge and get it to kind of rock just a little bit and it's super tight. I think the pistons are just welded themselves to the cylinders and they're locked up uh and that's.

Why he's getting a little bit of twist because you're getting the the conrad down the center is getting a little bit of twist to it. But it's they're not going to be able to get them off without destroying them, and at this point i don't want to do that and probably let it soak. I don't think that's gon na do it. I know someone's gon na say why don't you split the case and be able to get it apart? That's not going to work because you would have to have two of the cylinders already off where the pistons can come off and allow two rods to go with.

One side of the case, both sides locked up - you bolt that apart, you still can't get the case to come apart, because the pistons are stuck on the cylinders. So that's where we are on this one and the fact that uh, you know the wind got out of my sails of realizing that it is not a uh like a nice, 85 horsepower 914 engine that was going to make this thing rip along. It's not much better than a 1600 dual port with a set of two carbs on it. Having said that, it just so happens that up in my stash is another one of these engines that i am not sure what it came out.

I'm gon na say it's probably the same too, being a fuel injected 1.7 liter. It's got the same four bolt same four bolt intake on it, but it should be the same block that is underneath. Actually it is different because the oil, the oil fill the dipstick is in a different spot where the dipstick on the other one came out here. So this might be a 1.7 or 1.8 porsche hard to say 9 14..

So let's go to grab this, oh, so the problem with this one is: it came with that car, but it turns about 340 degrees. It goes bang and hits rotate the other way around and bang it hit so that something is interfering or drop the valve or whatnot. I don't know, but at least the bottom end of this turns if it dropped the valve and we need a cylinder head, we got cylinder heads from the other motor. So let's go grab.

This downstairs, we'll start peeking into here, see what we got as far as. What's wrong with this one, we might be better off just chasing this one instead of chasing the other one, and we can convert the carburetor and all the stuff over to this block. Hopefully, and up in my stash that came with that car was this other engine that is of unknown condition. I did at the time when i grabbed it went to go spin it around and it was supposed to be a good engine, but it only turns 340 degrees before it hits.

So you can't turn it go. Bang you spin around the other way bang. So i don't know what happened to cause it to do that, whether it let a rod go or it's got a valve hung up or something is down one of the plug holes and it's causing it not to turn. Or i just don't know.

I don't have the answer to that, but it does turn which the other one does not. So if it has a bad cylinder head or something like that, we could possibly steal that from the other engine down there. This is also the same setup. It's a four bolt, so i don't know if it's a bus or 914.

I think the dipstick is in a different spot, so that may make it a 914 engine because on the other one here's where the dipstick is it's up by the oil fill with the other one. It comes through the front of the case over there. So i want possibly maybe this one's a 914 1.7 or 1.8 liter again, i'm not kind of well versed on these. So let's go grab this one we'll bring we'll drag.

It downstairs take a peek at what we got and see if we can figure out what this one is and what, if this one's worth salvaging, maybe make one out of the two look at the crap. That's on the intake, that's not very promising. Is it so? Let's go get all the wiry bits and chunks out of the way, so that's the intake throttle body the boot off. I don't know if that instills confidence for a good engine keep going boy.

Half of that was wiring harness i cleaned it up nicely. I have a feeling that the engine smoked so go hit, that with a shop vac get all that crap off of it and just more of the intake plenum you can see the the rust that is built there on both sides. So i'm wondering look at all that good thing he didn't ever start huh would have sucked all that right. I wonder if there's so much of that that the pistons just can't look at that holy, that the pistons just can't come up all the way.

That's actually looking believe it or not. It's looking hopeful. Oh look at that holy crap. I have the valve covers off, and i looked at the valve the height of each valve and they're level.

If it dropped a valve, the stem would be sitting farther out than it than its uh neighbors could be no head on it and both sides of that actually looked decent, so it didn't drop a valve. I have a feeling she's got so much crap inside that went down the combustion chamber that the piston is coming up and just squeezing a bunch of that craft together and if that's the case, you know we pull the heads off. Hopefully, the cylinders are okay, because the other engine you know, obviously, is an issue, but i do think we have at least one good cylinder head that came off of that motor that we can put on this one before i go any further. Let's see if there's even any oil in it and actually the plug's loose, i have a feeling it's empty.

I want to get an idea. What we're dealing with is any water or anything. Oh, no good! I wouldn't say it's dirty. You can see through it.

Let's go tilt her a little bit more level. Surprise. The valve cover is off. On the other end, i would have thought it would have ran out that side not seen any sign of water or anything going in it smells a little burnt.

I must say it was easier and harder at the same time to take apart. This one was much more rusty, so the hardware fought that much more, but i learned how to what order to take things off the exhaust ports. Actually don't look too bad. There's water in there from cooling a bolt down.

That's that white! That's down in there. They don't look terrible. The intake, of course, is all pack or rust so that ain't great, but hopefully you know next thing - is you're gon na get the cylinder heads off of this thing, but hopefully, if the bottom end and the jugs look okay, i think we have enough parts between The two of them to make a a decent engine, but we're there where you start getting those head, bolts off and uh, take that one side off see what we got and hopefully hoping for good news. All the bolts are out of this side.

I want to turn it so it hits that might be where it is right now and now she won't turn it off so that whatever pistons all the way up, we will know that's the one that was causing its issues it's time. Well, the head's moving. That's a good sign. I thought it was gon na be welded to the jugs.

It does still have that piece of tin underneath i'm not quite sure the order that they come out. Is that the one that's all the way up? No, but you can see how packed that stuff up the rust, like, i thought, got packed up against the head right. There probably didn't allow it to go the rest of the way over. That side doesn't look too bad and that's the one that's up right now.

Jugs, actually don't feel too bad, neither get the other one off. You guys can want light, throw some light on it. Yeah it's got a the bottom of that one's packed that could have been it right there. Just that there's nothing to pack it, so it wouldn't go through.

I see a little bit of blow-by too see the darkness around where the ring is kind of common and side number two. Hopefully thank you up a little bit. Yeah come to me yeah that tin on the bottom sure fights me, but i don't know where to get it out of there, because the pushrod tubes are in the way to be able to get it. Are you looking at up in the air enough to at least get these out now? It allows you to have the room to pull it down.

On that note, that's that little way, so you can get it now, we're in oh yeah, same thing: there's the one right there that was causing it. You see all the packing around it where it was hitting the piston, so the piston couldn't come all the way up and we just hit a bunch of rust and crud that got built up on it and a little bit of blow by on those two. You can see what i'm looking at is where this darkness is and where it's dark here. That means when the compression was firing it was.

It was leaking a little bit out of those areas. You clean that up and re-torque the heads generally, it kind of stops that sometimes, if it overheats too, it causes that everything stretches out and it doesn't. You don't have the uh the fork on the on the studs anymore, holding it down yeah it does it and there's some on that piston right there. You know it's not too bad.

Let's go see if she can spin over i'm going to go spray. Some oil on all these and we'll see if we get a full revolution. We know, if that's the case, then we know that the uh you know the bottom end is still good, that it didn't harm anything internally. Looking good, though, come on, turn uh-oh promise.

I promise it did turn earlier: let's grab a uh, a screwdriver in the flywheel and give her a little forceful there. She is we'll do it 180, so the pistons that are up are down. The ones that are down are up and get some oil inside there and we'll wash them out yeah. I think, there's some rust behind the flywheel too.

Let's go. Give that a shot, that's pulling jugs off to be careful. I don't pull the cylinders off that later date, i'm going to go, set some stuff up for clamping these, that the cylinders don't want to rise up off of there. I'm going to wipe these out and we'll get a better look at what we got for damage on the bores.

Sorry about the background noise, everybody's getting ready for a snowstorm coming up. I see some pitting on the cylinder walls. I don't know if you can see it all the way down. You see, there's some rust on it.

I don't think it's terrible, it's kind of common for stuff to sit so nothing saying that any of these jugs are bad plus. I don't think we're going to be able to get them off that other engine anyway, he just kicked on. Let's go flip over the other side, we'll take a peek at that real, quick, we'll spin it around it feels like it turns fine again he's got a bunch of craps that needs to be cleaned out of it, but they're not should probably grab a rag. A mostly clean one, you can kind of see the little pattern rust right there.

Let's go flip it over look at the other side. This is probably the worst one. Oh no, this one's the worst one. Can you see the rust? I don't know if i want to pull the cylinders off hone them clean them up that way, or should we just kind of put a bunch of oil on it, maybe hook a starter up to and spin it i'm kind of leaning that direction at the moment You can't see the rust that's on.

It doesn't seem to have an issue with the rings going over it. There's no restriction anymore. The flywheel's hitting that bolt right there, i'm going to go, run some more fluid through it. I haven't done this side, yet i haven't the other side, i at least cleaned up and ran some oil and wiped it down, ran some oil and wiped it down.

Let's see how they come back. What i have here is a part of a bell housing of an old transmission that was cut off and it has the mounting bolts for starter, and then that gets bolted to one side of the engine and you can spin it over. This is a type 3 starter automatic. It does not have a pilot shaft input like this one does and what that does is it goes down to a bushing.

This one will run in anything. You don't need to worry about that and there's some difference between six volt 12 volt, the diameter what's in the center there, so this will run on any car that one has to be specific for a 12-volt with the uh space on it. I'm gon na go spin them both up with a jumper pack, see if either one of these live we'll get that on there. Maybe we'll spin the motor over a little and see how those uh cylinders kind of clean up we'll try this one.

First, this one doesn't need to be mounted in that housing for it to spin the other starter with that style. The one that's over there with the nose cone needs the bushing. It will not spin out of out of the housing because it needs that support. So we're gon na go jump from here to here see if we get a spin and it's not looking good, i want to say that give a little spin try number two, let's see if this one's any better bang crap everywhere.

Let's do the same! Oh, it doesn't sound good though she sounds slow. It should be good enough for us to do what we need to do, though, and we're not trying to start it we're just trying to spin it over. That's what i was talking about. Here's the support the bushing that needs to support it, or else the shaft kicks on an angle and internally on this it'll, the armature will run into the magnets.

So the only support is out here where the other one has it built into the front of it. We're talking about earlier, i was worried about that. You put an engine in that didn't clear that transmission, and this is again a cutaway of a trance. You can see how close that tooth is to the housing it's actually hitting it came.

I can't even bolt it down all the way and then the same right there. It's all doing the same thing. I think this flywheel is deeper than what's on a beetle, so i'm not sure how that's going to pan out for us. I got to go.

Look at that transmission too, and make sure that that can even handle the setup that's on here, because i don't know if we could put a 1600 flywheel, probably not, i doubt it, but a 1600 flywheel or upright beetle on a type 4 engine with this belt. Housing, i was pretty sure that they crossed over. This might even be a six volt one. That's been clearanced, but still you can even see the starter gear and grab a light.

You see that started here, although it's all the way back, it's already engaged in the teeth of the transmission. So when that's not spinning, that's not supposed to be touching, it's supposed to be out of the way and the engine can run on its own and kicks out when it needs to. But it's already, you know eighth inch or so engaged in those teeth and on the bell housing. The gap is even still open.

Just the hair, it's not even bolted. All the way down. I'm gon na go check what we got on the trans on that one. Give it a quick look over probably what we'll do is for now we'll throw a couple of washers behind here, see if we can shim this back a little and just use it for moving forward with the engine.

But that might be an issue like i said not being able to meet up to that transmission. There's one on the trans: let's go take a a caliper. I hope i could do this one-handed we're going to probe how far back it is to that starter. Here, let me touch the teeth on that right there right here, so that's how much distance i have i'm going to go check on the other partial bell, housing and see if that's the same, that's the same, we're going to run to the same problem.

If it's back further, then we should be good with this setup. That's in here you can see where all the teeth were hitting from the flywheel when i bolted it on. If you lay that on there that's the same dimension that we have on the other one making sure it's back all the way too. So i don't quite know what we should do.

I'm afraid that we're going to go through all the trouble of building an engine that we can't use on the transmission that is in there now, not that i i really feel like going through the effort, i think kind of. Maybe we have to go and put that block in the car and make sure it can turn if not it's all for nothing right. That's i kind of questioned even how it was set up before with that the new hardware that was bolted in i first kind of thought that possibly it was hitting is the flywheel. Let's go look at the other engine.

Let's go measure the depth of that fly. Let's go see if this is shallower on this one than that one, it actually kind of looks a little deeper. Doesn't it let's go find out so on this one? We are to that inner lip of the bell housing. Is that dimension? Let's go see what the other one is, there's quite a bit of there's there.

It is right there good, so that flywheel sits closer. Hopefully, it's the flywheel that it's not the crank or something, but let's go find out. We got to go put this flywheel on the other engine. Well, so far it looks like crisis averted.

You can definitely see the height of this one, which is the one that was hitting. I was on this engine that we're working on compared to this one. One thing i do see being an issue - maybe maybe not the pilot bushing or bearing, is in this one not in this one, not sure if we can just tap them and transfer them over, because that's the support for the shaft coming out of the transmission again, Like the starter, we just talked about same idea with that. It's got a roller bearing inside there that we have to get from that to this.

Let's get ahead of ourselves. Let's go bolt. This up make sure everything comes back together that we can spin it with a starter. It's going to work in that bell, housing and we'll move on from there.

Can you see, i can see the clearance nail on the starter. He's got that space here. All right give her a crank see if she does hopefully doesn't blow apart, that starter ain't liking it, but that's: okay, just a little self self-polishing action going on. Do you see sparks.

I think it's that i think it's a ground. Let's try that all right! Let's go clean them up, we'll take a quick look at them, see how the bores look and come up with a battle plane from there. I guess to get you in good and close. This light affects the camera a little bit high.

I can see the the waves going on the screen, but yeah there's that light rust, slash pitting. I don't know if what will benefit us to take the jugs off, like i said, and kind of go through honing them and yeah. I'm not even sure what i have for an engine, it's 1700 1800. I'm sure we could measure things out.

I actually kind of think. Maybe our best bet is we'll just clean the cylinder heads up. We could put the push rods in put the heads on torque them down and we'll just do a compression test, and if we get, if we're up around 100 and all cylinders, maybe we'll just kind of move forward with that and we'll just you know it's a Good used engine we're not we're building it we're just going through the making one out of the two to make a good runner uh. I think the parts are fairly expensive on these setups too.

So if you start getting into it, you might be better off just building a beetle 1600 dual port over trying to put one of these together for this car and plus all the tin work, and everything is just that much more complicated, i'm not giving up. I'm just saying that i don't know if i want to put 800 into an engine that is kind of so-so for its application. I'm still thinking it over in my head. So let's go! Do that i'm going to take a little bit of time, i'm going to go, we don't have to it's going to come right back apart again, but we'll throw the heads on it.

Put the push rods on it, put the rockers on it, adjust the valves and we'll spin it up and see what we get for compression i'll, probably pick the best of the two heads i'm going to clean them up first before i do that, but you get The idea i like to pull the valves out or nothing, but i'm going to clean all the surfaces up and you know all the crap that's been packed in there that caused our original problem. I was hoping to go with the heads that were on the first engine just because they were cleaner looking, but i did a distance across and the distance across and that's how much they're not going to fit on top of the cylinders. So we can't use those. Probably the other way around, but you can't go, can't go smaller, you can go bigger, but you can't go smaller, so these are going to be the ones that get cleaned up and go on there.

She said they look like they got a little more age to them. You can see the amount of crap that's down inside and you looked at that. One yeah looks much nicer, almost like they they possibly could have been rebuilt or something at one time, but they're not going to fit for us that it is, they got all put back together. The valves are kind of adjusted by ear and again we're just trying to figure out what the compression is going to be and what, if it's going to come back, we have to work with and throw some oil in it.

It is going to piss out where the rockers are, because there's no pushrod tubes, but just enough so the crank is wet in the cam - is what it was more than one concern. It'll it'll build oil pressure too, but it's just gon na dump it out what normally goes up to the cylinders, we'll still go there, but the return path, there's just nothing there. This is fine, because i want to flush it out anyway, and we're still on we're. Still in assessment mode check out that rotor, that is a on the buses, they had a problem with.

If you over rev them, they would blow up. It's coming out the front crank seal right now. I should probably put the front flywheel on so they would. Oh, if you over ribbed it you'd blow it up, and a lot of people would hold their gear on a bus, make it scream.

That was on this one, which was the 914, which maybe the 914 came with it too, but what it is the rotor is, it has a spring in it here, bring it close to say it. The rotor has a spring loaded as it spins faster.