moving forward with this 1969 boat car that was found in a barn. we start patching the holes in the body so it can float. then we wrap the exhaust to keep the heat down in the engine compartment.
one mans junk is another mans treasure…
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You can use ordinary metal hose clamps on the exhaust wrap. Even for temporary "shop-aids" to hold in place. There are other types(configuration and brand) of hose clamps for that high temperature environment. Particularly for turbocharger ducting. The "T-Bolt" variety comes into mind. If they don't hold, atleast they'll crush the pipe and won't slide down.. Hey it aint rocket science…don't try to reinvent the wheel… there's other ways of doing anything…which ever you choose I'm sure that it will be just fine…and entertaining to watch!
The resin (poly-ol) doesn't go bad for atleast 5 years, if it has a tight lid. But the hardener(isocyanate) will lose its effectiveness about 6 months after opening the cap. The hardener is hydroscopive: it absorbs moisture from the air. As the hardener ages, it becomes crusty, chunky, and loses its properties. Even brand new unopened containers can go bad. So it's best to check the manufactured date on the can, box, or blister package. Don't purchase anything more than a few months old. When storing, keep the resin and hardener separated. I spray paint or mark the lids/caps so there isn't any confusion. I also keep the chemical containers clean and enclosed inside of additional ziploc bags(really thick name brand). Finally, the hardener can be kept in the freezer, if it is double bagged in ziplocs or some kind of additional glass capped container. Remember, the hardener absorbs water..ruining it. The resin absorbs moisture also. The sign of moisture in the resin is little bubbles or a cloudy color when the two parts are mixed. Regardless of age, brand, etc., TO BE DEAD SURE ABOUT THE COMPONENTS PERFORMANCE/QUALITY…TEST BEFORE USE! If the ratio doesn't "kickoff" (set or polymerize) try adding additional hardener. Aside from that garbage, this video series is really interesting and enjoyable!
The Beaver isn't red… it's definitely orange… Chevrolet engine orange!!!! Engine paint would look great!
soak exhaust wrap in bucket of water first……..
great video to see thanks take care
I "play" with motorcycles a lot. I dislike wrap on pipes. It discolors quickly. And also holds moisture, which causes pipes to rust out. Seems to me that would be a consideration in a water craft.
The bumper sticker should say. "Eat more beaver".
I would be tempted to bolt a lawnmower gas tank externally
Why don’t you just use a hose clamps instead of Metal Thai wraps
Hi Mustie, I'm watching from Birmingham UK and loving the vlogs, i'm a little behind the game here as I've recently found you on you tube, you're right there is a proper tool for it that tightens and cuts them but you're doing just fine, one tip would be, to stop the ends of the wrap fraying is to fold under the last inch or so, keep the content coming 👍
I had to laugh so hard when he noticed the tiewrap is too short but the audio was still fast forward
I soak the wrap at least 20 minutes in warm water. If it's colored wrap the dye will come off on everything, Wrap it over grass to prevent a mess. WEAR rubber gloves to keep the glass fibers out of your hand. If you have a partner it's much easier. After 20 minutes remove wrap from the water and begin at the exhaust not manifold end of the pipe. Fold end of the wrap over about 1 inch and wrap once around pipe and secure with a screw clamp. Then start wrapping over the folded end at a angle toward the manifold end with a about a 50% overlap. Keep wrap even and tight as you work. When you reach the end one again fold the wrap over about an inch wide where it stops at the manifold and secure with a screw clamp. The wrap will become tighter as it dries, then once it's dry spray with exhaust wrap sealer (5000 degrees) to prevent it picking up dirt and oil etc.. this is important if your pipes are going to be seen such as on a bike. Insure screw clamp screws are on the back of the pipes and can not be seen when looking ta the exhaust.
that air sander reminds me of the old Mutt and Jeff cartoon
The transom on that Beaver needs to have a little outboard engine on it, to get you to where you want to adventure, sooner. The prop shouldn’t be lower than the keel, to keep it out of harm’s way. The short glass fiber Bondo, with hardener is easy to work with, and you work it until it grabs under the spatula, and you quit working it immediately.
I was always told you're supposed to put that exhaust wrap on wet?