So i know the whole thing has to come down. Everything has to get taken apart anyway, so i'm not that concerned. I just don't want to damage. Maybe some of the internals all the stuff on the outside is uh pretty much toast or nothing more is really going to happen to it.

I think we should probably see even get the spark plugs out of it. Let's see what that looks like and they're buried in there and get some oil down in the cylinders, maybe we'll purge a little bit of the mouse enough anybody home, there's this hole and she builds up behind the fan too come on baby, more of a b-flat That was going to be an issue. Look at that huh clean break bent was a bent so hidden back in here outer sanctum of the horde under all that snow and car covers these vw engine parts for 1600. Yes believe it or not, i may want to go get a shovel because they're under that right there i'm done digging.

Let's see how frozen it is shut, it's got a lot of ice on it. Hey critters, raccoon jumps out. So in here this is a stash of parts. It's like some old pistons and cylinders.

We got some pistons and cylinders. We have another long walk, which i also think is a b. My memory serves me correct. I think that's a set of heads for the same single four, that's the dual port.

That won't be the same and looks like there might be another single port right. There too. I think the valve guides are gone in them, though, or possibly maybe, between the two of them using four parts put it together in the missing cylinder that we need to steal from there, and while i'm here, i think i'll grab this other vw stuff too. So we have exhaust rear, teen a friend shroud, there's cylinder heads somewhere back in this stash those those mirrors.

I was looking for those mirrors. I just found them. I want those for the orange truck good, we'll go we'll go steal! Those while we're here after being dry, my stash, were probably about 15 years. Mother nature was nice enough to wash it off for me on the way over great and we're still hunting for parts and this old prom, queen, which i guess was red, white and blue.

At one time and she's a stash of goodies and i'm sure, critters. At the same time too, we are looking for a dog house or a fan shroud. That might be more pistons too right there. If you guys see anything, we're gon na go scavenge through here and possibly throw some crap in the trunk and the trunk the truck and bring it back with us one thing about hoarding: you forget all the goodies.

You got stashed away. That's a dual port! Get a transmission axles what's in here that can go with us. If it's got an offset, it's gon na offset oil cooler. We could probably put this offset one on there.

I think we can i'm gon na go look and we can just run the other fan shroud nice little boxing coming with me. I think we're gon na do a little bit of digging and just get stuff back there. So i know what i have there's an intake too: a dual port intake, clean shroud, all kinds of good stuff. What we got in are they new or here or i'm sure, they're old? Maybe not those may be brand new nope brand new.

That's all right! I don't remember if they're 15 or 16, i think they're 16.. I would probably guess right here and stroke on the side, the less used than the ones that i have on it well, after picking the horde and not spending any money, which is the purpose that i'm trying to go shoot forward with putting this engine together. We have uh some cylinders. I actually have a whole another set of used ones, but i found some cylinders by themselves to replace the broken one that would not come out of the head.

Uh cylinder head with good valves in it to replace a broken valve in one and a bent valve in the other. Hopefully you can rebuild those single port heads, some tins that were rotted out the rocker assembly that was rotted and rusted that won't move the front. Pulley or actually rear, pulley fan pulley. That was bad.

We have a new one of those. We have a fuel pump that we found used an offset oil cooler for an offset fan shroud that is delete of any heating hoses coming off it to go cleaning it up and a good use, clutch pressure, plate and flywheel assembly good enough for the purpose that We're going to use it for anyway and top but not least, not but not least. I said a good used wires that i found in the stash and a couple of exhaust systems with j-tubes some fashion of that will get put on that engine again this engine. I'm not showing what's going on yet, but it is when it's all together.

It will make sense as far as why i didn't bother putting a bunch of money into it and i'm not going to go crazy with cleaning everything and painting everything, because it'll all be for nothing anyway. So to speed things up a chat, i think i'm just going to go. Take a bunch of time. Take the junk off of here clean this up when we start getting into fixing the cylinder heads and getting the pistons back in and all that kind of stuff.

I'll bring you back one way to tell the condition of an engine or how it was taken. Care of. I should say when you pop the oil strainer off, is how much sludge is built in around it. You pop the screen down yeah.

That gives you an indication right there, that's uh, she wasn't as loved as much as she should have been. Let's get the strainer down, though, get an idea. What that looks like suckers like welding, not very good generally, you could just rinse them and put them back in together. Just it's a oil filter, but it's more of a screen than anything yeah.

You can see how much mud has built up around that a lot of times too. Just from sitting all the crap in the oil will settle out of the oil, i'm looking where the pickup is right in here. It sucks the oil up through here and then through the screen and up through the center. So it doesn't look.

It was clogged completely, but definitely it means a little bit of love, huh i'll, probably take kerosene after i get done cleaning the block. The block i'll come back with kerosene, probably uh slosh, some of that through it and i'll kind of break up some of the crap. That's in it, so you can see. Let's go zero.

That out! This is a the gauge is measuring in thousands we're going to try to get an idea. How much play is in the crank and go one way you move with the other. So i'm going to say it's about 14, 000, 14 or 15 out. It's got.

You can adjust it. There is shims underneath the flywheel we'll probably deal with that. Maybe a little bit later, there's three shams. You can kind of change the thicknesses of them to take up some of the space and try to make an improvements on it.

It should be around six. I think six is around the max on it, so we're definitely over uh. The clutch beats up on them a lot. Every time you sit there at a light and you're holding your foot on the clutch, you're literally pushing pressure against the side of the crank with uh all that spring force.

That is there you're trying to cancel that out. When you push the clutch in anyway, the crank takes a wear on that. So let's just get a general idea what we have for bottom end, she's a tad on the sloppy side on the bottom end, yeah, making one joke all right, i'm gon na go continue. Let's actually just go flip, it see what comes out of it for oil make sure no water comes out of it, so yeah just a little hint of it.

You see a little bit of different discoloration dripping out no metal, though let's get rid of that nasty front. Pulley it is loose but not loose, but not coming out the nuts loose it's ready to block them with kerosene, let's just soak in a little. Let's get that clutch off of there, let's see what that looks like i'm, not expecting good things, let's just say a little bit of rust, but actually probably clean up looking at the disc, how close it is to the rivets that shot. You see it on this side with a little uh cross, hatches vents go across that's ground away, and it's almost down to the rivets good thing.

We got a good used, one in stock and a bunch of kerosene with a wire wheel on a drill, a nylon, wire wheel, cleaned everything up, pretty good good enough. Anyway, let's go get one of those cylinders back to functioning condition, so we can plug up that hole. I tried cleaning up with scotch brite and still got some like rusty crud right there. I don't know if you can see it.

So, let's go run our hone through it and hold it again. Just try to break that rust off. It's really not doing anything. It's already old rings that are seated.

Let's go, give her a little bit of that see if that did anything for us. I just want to get rid of that rusted really plus we'll get it we'll be able to see what the ridge looks like now, because it'll leave a tail little scratches on that side. Get you closer. You see all the scratches that showed up on that one get the light bit further away and there's the the ridge that's where all the power is being made, so it kind of wears on the end of that cylinder wall.

Let's take the one: that's a little bit more rusty this one. Let's go run the same thing on that see how that cleans up for us take the better of the two. Let's see if that one's any better, i don't see those deep scratches going down the side. I see a little bit right there.

That's where the end of the ring is usually, i think, we'll be fine with either one that one doesn't look terrible, though that's probably the better of the two stills a little bit of rust, staining in it down below. You can see again where the compression happens right there and it pushes wears the tip of the cylinder out a little bit. Scratches kind of the same scenario pick the best of the two, but i think it's going to be this one. I'm going to run just a little bit more of the stone through it get a little bit more of that rust off of there had a couple of studs that pulled so i heated them up, got the nuts off brought them over to the wire wheel, clean The threads up, but i want to run a nut just over them, there's a nut in the socket just to make sure that, like that one doesn't have a bind there.

It goes so that when i go to torque the heads later on, you don't have any any resistance. I'm not going to pull all the pistons and clean the rings and all they all seem pretty good. Everything floats fine. I don't see any binding or any buildup in there, so other than wiping them down to make sure there's no contamination on them.

We're just going to go slide that other cylinder right back on a little air diffuser plate. There goes especially under that fin. If that fin was there, but what they do is the air, as the air blows down between the cylinders, it makes it kind of circulate going around instead of just blowing straight through and getting a hot spot on the bottom. It makes it so.

The air kind of travels around and exits out roughly that direction, what's really going to need. Some love is the cylinder heads. This is the one that had the uh keeper fall off and bent that valve the exhaust valve. Let's go tap that out of there take a quick look at what that seat looks like.

Let's see if there's any damage to it, hang that off the bench there she is. I think i got a wobble to her. Let's go see how the how the seat faired well, this needs to get cleaned up, but i don't see anything standing out at us. You don't see big hammer marks like it where it took on some heavy damage.

I'm gon na get the rest of the valves off out of it. Uh zippo sent me this funky vw, cylinder head valve spring valve removal tool. I'm gon na give that a fire up and see if you get all the valves out. Let's give that a shot.

Surprise you got ta, get the little keepers off of it. That sure is easier than the c-clamp. I was using yeah. That definitely makes life easier.

Doesn't it should come out without having to beat them? I'm also going to feel for how much um guide plate. There is actually feels pretty good that one's fine, okay, still nothing screaming at me - that it's screwed go take a quick peek. I don't see anything and the fact that you get cleaned up almost get some pitting a bit of rust pitting up in there. I actually got a valve grinding machine.

I traded youtuber uh hooked me up with it, but it's missing some pieces. So unfortunately i can't cut the valve with it all right, so i'm gon na go wash this mess up. Take a wire wheel get some of this crap off of here. This is what was holding the the jug got stuck on there and we got also the other surface.

That's an issue to watch out for us right here. I know we had blow-by in one of them and again that's the uh, the exhaust escaping or the the compression escaping out and around it wasn't torqued down too much and what happens if it runs too long. You see it right there, all the black. If it runs too long like that, it'll actually burn that aluminum away, so probably we'll take a cylinder, we'll lap a cylinder into there and see if we get a good pattern all the way around it take some time to get this one cleaned up, pull the Crap off of it and uh move forward clean up those exhaust thread, studs a wire wheel action.

So this cylinder head that i grabbed from my stash. The problem with this one is i'll. Show you the guides. You can rock that valve back and forth about an eighth of an inch until she, as you get closer to that's about where the stroke is.

So that's so bad over time. Every time the valve closes and then it kind of gets drawn into the center, and when that happens, it works as is through the valve away as it works it and it hammers it. It puts stress on the stem right here, eventually, it'll break the valve at that location and drop a valve. That's what's bad about using this! That's why i didn't use this head.

This is the engine. Actually, that came. The headset came with the bus, my thumbnail, the red and white bus lucy. These are the heads that came with that engine and that at that time they were no good, but the valve is good.

We're gon na go use that in our cleaned up head right behind you, i got that cleaned up pretty good. I used up a roll lock wheel with a scotch brite on it, and it should be this cylinder right here and that one has a little bit of play. It's nothing like on the other head. Let's go lap them in so there's a set up going to go with.

You have a valve piece of hose and then a drill on the end of it, pull down on it with some lapping compound and make the two very happily surfaces, co-mingle together, let's go get that set up and you should buff it. You hear the sound change here: push out all the sand, so i'm gon na do that to all of them and i'll bring you back. The next surface, i'm concerned about is again where the compression leaks out where it gets blow-by right in there, and this these heads were loose at least one of them was. Let me do the same.

I'm gon na throw some lapping compound on a cylinder. I'm just gon na use the cylinder in there i'm going to keep doing that i'll, probably come back with a sharpie and i'll write, um i'll color it in with a sharpie and i'll see if it erases the print all the way around and when we have A good seal going all the way in so, in other words, i'm going to grind the steel into the aluminum to try to make the aluminum flat as possible going around. I clean them over in the parts washer again to get rid of all that aggregate, because the last thing you want is that going through the combustion chamber and chewing up your stuff, the seat looks pretty good going all the way around with a jug meets up. You can see a good uh mating surface where the compound made a solid line going around them, so they look pretty good and then the valve surfaces too have a nice pattern on them.

The same, don't see any cracks in between. So i think this should recover. Pretty good again, this is uh. I actually changed this valve out to a different one and it has even less play than the other one did.

So i'm happy with that all right, one more to do, i'm ready to put them back on. Actually, you know what i got. I soft to drill out the two screws that hold the tin down. They were not having it so so i'm getting ready to put the valves in the other cylinder head, and these are the two exhaust valves there's one that broke, that i tapped on the stem from the outside it's a spring and gave her a couple of shots And it fell off internally.

I just wanted to show all the pitting that was on that one. It definitely uh contributed to its demise. It should not have happened for what i did. I actually kind of think looking at the stem to kind of see where it had almost like a little bit of a one of them, showed it there.

It is right there. You see the color difference in the middle. She kind of like had partial crack in it. Maybe but yeah pitting is no good just same with the springs.

I'm going to change all the springs on this side too, because they got rust on them. They do not like to hold up to getting pits in it. You see the difference on that one though this is the other exhaust valve that was in it. You could see a little happening right there.

I'm gon na go change that one out too, to a different one. You can see a little bit of pitting right there this. I think this is the cylinder that water had come in on, and this is one that i stole out of another head. That looks pretty good.

I'm gon na go find one more of those and finish this cylinder head up so knocked out a bunch of other stuff, got it all cleaned and detailed and put away the car i'm not going to show the car rebuild. I've done it. Many times, but we will pop the top off and see what it looks like inside and how fuel has treated sitting the last i'm gon na guess. 40 years.

Probably we first went to go. Do this, the linkage was frozen. The throttle plate on the bottom was frozen. I had to kind of tap it back and forth and spray some lube down in there just to get the throttle to move.

So i suspect it's gon na need some love. I think i have a carb kit, a bunch of stuff's getting hard to find it's all on your water stuff, and it shows up two months later after being back ordered. I think that might have come in all right. Let's go give her a who's.

Your daddy! Definitely looks like it's uh backfired through the carb a few times. Judging by how much carbon is up here. Usually this area is clean. There's nothing yeah! It's definitely a not terrible, though the float bowls, that's the stuff that i sprayed into it.

The fuel, let's um, dump that out yeah the bowl's actually fairly clean good. The only other thing is going to be a diaphragm for the accelerator pump, which is underneath here i'll show you that in a second after i take it apart, i need to get brittle over time yeah. It was hard as a rock that accelerated pump, not gon na, do much accelerating all right. I'm gon na get the rest of the bits out of it and the jets and everything and all those crap that is on it and go soak that and we'll get into putting the cylinder heads on the engine.

I think we're ready to rock and roll the new pushrod tubes. Of course, this one's got a dent in it. They have a seam on a welded seam. You want to make sure that kind of faces upward it's a little bit of a juggling match.

To put the cylinder head on and put those tubes in at the same time, uh which cylinder head we want to go with, we want to go with the. This is three and four, so we want the better of the two because, as they wear out three and four burns up faster, all the threads have been cleaned up on everything off camera, and so i'm gon na go just play a little game of uh stacking. The pushrod tubes, underneath there you can throw a push rod in each one kind of helps, hold it from falling out, but i'm just gon na keep juggling all those into place and they have like a crush to them. What i mean by that is, there's a spring loaded.

You can see it on the the sides of it. So when you're trying to crank down on the cylinder head, they will fight you a little bit, especially if you're using new ones. So you kind of take your torque wrench and actually before the torque runs you, you kind of just draw all the hardware down make sure our seams are facing up. I'm gon na go pop that hardware on there and we're just gon na kind of draw it down and then we're gon na get into twerking them.

These actually aren't too bad. Sometimes you can barely even see the top of the studs that are on them. Let me go throw that hardware on there moved over the other side, so i'm just gon na run them down, see how it's the head, head's literally like a quarter inch from even being close to being run down the home, and then i'm going to switch over To a torque wrench once they're, all all right, i got the torque set at like 15.. That's how much work it still went.

Yeah see how far that drew down. I'm gon na go suck them down a little bit further. Just for the uh essence of speed. I'm concerned about, i don't know about you - is that any of these studs decide to pull up out of the case, which is a possibility that they can do that too.

I think that just happened to us on the very first one and that sucks, i think, that's the one that was loose on us. They do make a repair for it. They had little oversized with uh larger threads on the bottom. You can cut them in i'm.

Just checking to see which one's going to go pull down, so i got two of them that did pull so i sent out the vw pry for help and see. If possibly, i can locate a set i switched over to the other side. I have a feeling that is a message coming back from him right now, i'm running them all down to 15., then i'll step it up to 24. plus i want to make sure i don't have any other ones that are failing, which is a mistake on my Part too, because i really should have caught that, because i knew the one of them.

The nut was backed off when we took it apart. It's going to go real real, quick, just make sure they're all up against the click that sounds fine next would be the rocker shaft assembly. I kind of see anything i want to line up. All the rockers to their home may have a spring washer 8mm nut.

What will happen is it'll run, but number four cylinder is going to have blow by because of that issue and not run well. It's like it has a constant exhaust leak whenever you get on the throttle, that's when i was taking the jugs and i'm trying to flatten them to the head. That's what i was talking about then too. Okay problem generally from overheating and the mouse nest that we took out of this was a good example of what causes an issue.

We have to go back and adjust all them. I have somebody searching your stash for them right now. Hopefully that comes through. Now we got to order them.

This video will be a while all right we're going to do the oil filter oil screen. I should say one of those going in not much to these either the thing a lot of people do they're tempted to do. They lose the nuts that come with it they're like little castle. Nuts i'll show you one.

So they do not have you know they're capped on one end, so when you run them down, if you lose them, you put regular nuts on it. Oil will leak right through the center of the stud later on. They got rid of this because a lot of people what they were doing is changing oil and we just pulled that center on it would never wash the screen. We need copper washers go on each one.

That's it just suck all that down nice and light. So you don't strip them out. Let's go see, our carb is doing that looks decent enough. I'm gon na go rinse that stuff off with some water put it back together.

After putting out the apv, i was able to find three of them, my friend who had them, who i told to order a bunch, so i would have them when they're needed. So that's the oversized end. This is what it's like stock, so we're gon na go call that 850 and this one goes up to uh 30. So it's 45 000.

It's larger! You can see it's got a little self tapper in it and the stud the shaft is uh larger. It's a joke there anyway, so this is what's in there longer. But you know this: is the upper we're gon na go continue to pull this one out and go put these in and see if that'll fix us? I know this is gon na seem weird what i'm gon na. Do i'm going to continue to run that nut down and what it's actually doing is pulling up on the whole assembly, and i wanted to do that.

Why do you ask so i wanted to take all the threads that failed with it see how far down it is, and i want to rip right out of there and what will happen is it'll. Take the threads with it and it gives you a clean shot to move forward with the new one. In other words, it's kind of normally, you would drill it a little bit larger and then get it set to to do a tap instead of drilling it. This just does it for you, i'm going to uh see all the threads, how it came with it and then the new one.

Oh, she just falls right in the hole i do have to take the head off. I thought i was able to do it through the head. I do remember being able to do that. Actually, i think you could probably thread it through.

I'm gon na go set up a set of uh nuts on here, so i could run that down once it gets past a little further than that it'll be able to drop in and then we've got to tap it into the rest of it. They do make something that grabs the ends of the threads for it, i'm just going to double net it. That should be enough for us to feed it in there. Hopefully, as soon as i go to clear, i'm gon na hit you in the head with a ratchet.

I got ta move you so as soon as it clears the head, it should just drop right in down to the lower level there it goes. The idea is: if the engine is still in the car, and it happens, it was, it was a fix to be able to do it in the car, whereas they do make something. That's called the case. Savers you have to.

You have to split the case. Bring it to a machine shop and they install a setup built into the case, but you got to take the whole case apart. My tins are getting me moved around, so i can actually get some push on it, the engine's against the bench. On the other side, i'm going to grind a little bit of leading edge on that, so it helps helps get it started, she's having trouble getting that first little initiation and something like that, a little lead on it started a little bit.

More now should be able to back off the top nut had to put a wrench on it there. It goes that's one done. I can get re-torqued as i find out what i do with my washer. All right, torque wrench, is on 24., i'm just going to run them in first i went.

I did all the other ones just because i want to see if any other ones we're going to go pull out. But let's go. Do the normal torque pattern that one's already clicking there you go come on here. We got that one! Here's our other victim saved, so i cleaned up a rear, pulley.

So, okay, i got some anti-seize in here too, a little further i'll. Keep the oil in i'm going to throw a couple of quarts of oil in it cause, i think, we're ready to spin it up. Hopefully, that's not bent, or else it's uh gon na get corrected. While it's on there they're gon na throw some oil in it and get the starter back on we'll spin it a little bit and they'll adjust the valves getting ready to crank it with the start.

I want to just spin it by hand. Now i can't hear anything funky at first it was clunking when we first were doing it, but that was that valve that had lost its keepers. All right so we'll give her a spin a little bit of a crank and then we'll adjust about just one thing: to kind of settle a little bit just take a quick eyeball of stuff nice. Now i'm gon na go point that rotor at number, one which i think was right here.

It's either gon na be here or here there's two locations normal and that will make it so you can adjust number one cylinder. The both valves will be back which they are but they're tight. I have to adjust them so that one's in compression stroke. I got it wrong.

It is right there i'll get it anyway. No, i had it right. It's just that. I was looking at the valves.

One's in further than the other, but it's infrared because of the valve adjustment, not because of i'm not in the right location, so i'm just going to go back them both off where they are not touching and we'll sneak up on it. Here we go. You always want to do them on cold. On a vw, six thou, you can go if you find your motors along the noisy side.

You can do four, but you just got ta keep an eye on it, because what happens is the valve adjustment will tighten up over time and if it tightens up over time, it'll burn a valve that feels pretty good, just light drag and sometimes when you're tightening It down it'll change because of the the threads getting pulled up from the nut. It pulls the whole thing to one side a little bit and it feels pretty good. What i'm going to do is i'm going to go point the rotor at number, two cylinder. So i spin it actually backwards.

Now, i'm set up for number two i'll close are tight. Do the same i'll. Just do the same thing, all the way around all right, they're, all adjusting i'm gon na go spin. It again that front pulley wobble they can get pretty tight when you're trying to take them off and i'm sure whatever that guy came off of, took on some damage, but still better than what we had i'll take.

That and uh beat it with a hammer. We'll get it straight: uh, let's go, throw the compression test gauge in it and see what we get number one with the battery charger to it see if we get now, that's what we need now, let's go get some numbers number one number two, but 20. That's more like it number three one, ten and number four and one ten ish also, so i got 90, 120, 110 and 110.. I think that 90 will come up.

That is the cylinder. I believe that we honed and put on there and the honing does not help it actually causes a leak for a little while until it gets kind of polished in. So i think that those numbers will come up. I think we're fine that cylinder probably come up to about 100 or 110 and we're all within uh a good range yeah.

You kind of 15 20 pounds you want to be in any more than that. You're gon na start getting a skip at an idle on one cylinder good. I think we've got a good uh long block to work with now. It just needs a little little bits to make make brumburg noises.

Let's check on number one yeah, it's still at 90.. It's spitting a little bit just see if we get some good oil, it takes a little bit for those tubes to fill up, because i blew them out, make sure there's nothing in them. Yeah we're dripping on all of them. Good i'm going to fast forward a little bit and the engine is all together other than the tins.

We're going to take that back apart. I'm going to take that back apart a little bit later and do an offset oil cooler and put them on. But i want to fire it up and run it with everything off just in case you have any issues, plus it's a little good for show and tell without further ado. I just wanted to show.

What's inside of the shoe for the vacuum advance, i didn't show it earlier. I have a vacuum hose on it, i'm just going to draw on it. If you watch the the points rotate, that's the advance that you get from the vacuum side of it, along with the mechanical advance, that's in the bottom of the distributor, so that seems to work. If you draw on that, you keep sucking there.

It means the diaphragm blew out in this, which is common. This goes up to the carburetor and there's a metal tube that goes on there. Sometimes that is missing and it doesn't have the service loop in it. So gas fumes go down and take out the diaphragm.

So it's important to have that there you go. That's the factory one! You can see it on there. It's right to the side of the carb. I think we're to the part of the show we could fire it up.

So let's get some gas in it. You'll fill up that float bowl, it took care of the pulley, take the bend out of that, or most of it anyway put a different fuel pump on it, one that works not that we're using it right. Now there we go a little dribble down it. Let's go hook up some ground see what we get no exhaust.

This could be a tad loud. Hopefully he had no throttle return spring hold on a second, i got ta get a throttle return spring. Yeah last thing i need to do is fire it up and let it run full throttle, that's more like it ready to make noise here we go. So i don't know if we got an idle circuit or not, let's go fire it again.

I think it might be out of gas, it shouldn't fire at all four corners. I saw it shoot raw. I don't know if that was raw fuel or oil or what that was on the number four cylinder: it's not much gas. Let's see what it's got see for the idle try, it again sounds pretty good.

There would be a bad test to do a compression test after it runs a little bit see if our numbers come up. You could probably run for about five minutes with no tins on it. It's not gon na overheat. It warming up where the choke comes off.

I can dial that air fuel mix in on that carb too. It's shaking so much. You can't get the screwdriver on the air fuel mix. That's all the way in that's one turn out: let's hit it again, we get a little bit of heat in it, not much they're, not hot, yet coil's arcing out.

That's why it's breaking up the wire and the coil was grounded up against the intake and make support noise. So so i think she's doing pretty good we're going to pop the plugs out real, quick. Let's go! Do a compression test and see what our numbers turned into now: everything kind of seated a little bit yeah. So we get a number one: 115.

120, we'll call that 120. I guess it's that line right. There was it 80, 80 or 90. That's the one! We again that we changed the jug on and honed and let's go see how the other ones do and number two that's what 130 ish and number three yeah again: 130ish.

130 135 call 130. and number four 115. we'll call it probably 115.. There's our difference.

It's before again, that was with a dead battery, though so it wasn't helping our numbers any, but they definitely popped up to right where they should be. That's a a good set right there, just 15 pounds between the high and the low. That's awesome that will not have any issues whatsoever and it's got plenty of life left in it. I would say you could probably run this engine under normal circumstances, probably got 40 or 50 000 miles in it easy bottom end.

A little on the sloppy side is probably yeah. What would take it out of the game that or mice get in it and it causes them to overheat? I think that is a uh, a save. I would call it for the pile of junk that it was that we dragged out of there and the issues that it had. It had a valve that was uh off its keepers, not even doing anything.

The rocker assembly all fell apart, and about was slapping into the piston, was its main issue, probably why it was taken apart from whatever engine or car that it was pulled from, and you know put, the rest was for that. That was the original failure and then i think, just from sitting all the rocker assembly that locked up on that side, the exhaust valve was rotted on number one cylinder. I whacked it with a hammer and it fell apart inside. So we used some used parts.

I think we have much in it. The only thing we i uh money-wise was pushrod tubes, which was like 18 bucks. Carb kit, i think, was like 20-25 bucks in oil. That's all.

We really used everything else to just use junk that i had laying around that. We uh pieced it back together, so i'm happy with that. This can go in pretty much anything because it's set up for a bus with the uh mounts for a mustache bar and going on a dune buggy. You couldn't go in a beetle and go in a kit car.

I can't show you that right now - and you know you can go into any one of them just by changing whatever tins you have on the outside right now, the stuff that i have for, which is like some header exhaust and um uh fan shroud. That's a simple one is more for like a a doom, buggy or a trike or something along those lines. I do have a a plan for this engine and i will shoot that will be at a different date. Different video and it already has a home - if not something blows up on me between now and then this will be the backup engine for that.

So we got taken care of guys with that. I'm gon na go sign off and thank you all for hanging out with me so much having a little bit of fun a little bit of ranching on some old junk, bringing it back to life and until the next one see you soon bye. What you didn't think i was going to show you it all together had to change the rear tin here, because the offset of the generator did not line up with the crank. So i took it back apart and stole one from another.

One put this in the right position got headers on it for now uh. It's probably gon na have a stinger coming straight up off of this way, but this is what was mocked up. I think i had this crusty at one time, not sure all right you want to fire it up again see what we get the carb is suspect. I don't think it has a good idle circuit, but again it's just a guess.

Right now, we need to get 12 volts to the coil into the to the coil into the carburetor. There's a idle shutoff solenoid. That might be no good. Usually it clicks for you for power cut, it's clicking whether it's moving internally, it's a different story.

All right shall we, i think, we're all set yeah. I don't know about the idle circuit. Let me see if i can get it so i can grab the throttle. The choke is on right now, too, quieter choke's still on.

As soon as that choke comes off, though it's gon na die yeah, it's not taking that! There's no idle circuit, no fuel. Coming in at an idle how's that huh happy, we got a couple extra tins that need to go on yet there's a couple that hang down below kind of steer the cooling air down around the cylinder heads out and out this direction right now. It's set up for an open, an open car, not boxed in. So it's not that important, no thermostat in it.

I changed the oil cooler over to the offset one so now that is out of the stream and allows the cooling air to come down over these two cylinders evenly where before it was in the path. So it kind of choked off the side and gave some engine issues burning. Valves number three cylinder gets real hot. That kind of thing.

Okay, so i think i'm good to go other than you know, probably working that car a little bit, i'm gon na change the flywheel over to the other one that somewhere that came with the clutch, but i'll put that whole set up. I want to get out of the engine stand and i think it's pretty good, not bad for a 40 investment huh and a little bit of time, all right guys. Now i'm done, thank god again for hanging out with me having a little bit of fun, bringing in rusty junk back to life until the next one see you later, i got ta clean up, what a mess closer, pull the plug um a little aftermath of the Surgery, foreign.