a friend stopped by with some donations he grabbed from the trash. one of them being this higher end chain saw that the last owner stated it was the junkiest chainsaw ever. so lets find out why and if we can fix it.
The guy that dropped it off said it's the jumpiest chainsaw that ever came into this dump really. But your opinion is not the same. No, you look like a bad saw to me. No, i brought you a four-stroke weed whacker, a cool stroke.
Two-Stroke was an accident. I thought they were both four stroke. What's this, what's the story behind it never ran right for him cool. So he said it was the junkiest chainsaw.
Ever i don't think it's like a home depot saw neither right it's more of a superior saw in manchester yeah they're, a good sauce. A couple like that. Just got ta figure out why he figures it was a jumping saw. I thought you would like those lights.
I thought those are cool, they look cool on. One of these are awesome. Yeah that looks like the movie 1984., the uh we come and talk to you. What are you doing? Is there two of those? Oh there's more, i think they're like awesome.
Those are neat. I, like those yeah, i know like those yeah, that's my favorite. So far, awesome cool, hey, guys, how's it going so. I haven't even opened the box other than the little peak we did before.
So let's go get a better idea. What we have? What do you call it? The junkiest chainsaw ever made, or we ever used, definitely looks like the blade's been overheat. It's burnt all down below. There definitely took the bar out and it's probably jumping the chain, the chain's, not even sitting straight on the on the back side, it's leaning to one side.
Let's give her a couple of tugs, see we got feel the compression. That part feels pretty good. Let's go get her uh up in the vice, we'll clamp down on the bar and get into it see if we can find out either what happened to it, where it doesn't run anymore and turn it into a piece of junk or if we can revive it. Repair, whatever it needs, let's go pop that top cover off.
I think it's got a broken mount for the handlebar. Is that what you call it? I think the bar is burned up for a lack of oil. Possibly me the oiler does not work or again you don't know what people's capacity is when they run this stuff and you could add a homeowner that put regular gas in it, never put any uh chain oil. I had a saw i sold as a matter of fact, i'm saying that should grab the phillips.
I had a saw that i did. It was a nice touch. I think what the name of it was, but it was. It was john ceret that you pronounce it and i sold it to a friend and he brought it back and it was all burned up the bar just like that.
Worse, it keeps stalling out and i go and brought it back and go. Did you ever put any chain oil in it? He looked at me kind of funny, so that was a no and that's what the problem was with that one all right: let's, there should be go air filter, cartridge right on that. This look terribly dirty, doesn't look like it's got, a bunch of crappy looks, i mean it possibly went and cleaned it out. Let's we'll get the plug out of it and then we'll probably dump the fuel out.
Next, i want to see if it looks like it's burnt up, though it's gon na look. Sometimes you can tell by looking at the side of the cylinder whether it's cooked or not, don't look too bad. It looked like it was overheated. Let's go pop that plug out first we'll take a look down the jug and see if we see any beat-up-ness of the cylinder. That's gon na pop that up actually looks brand new yeah plug's, pretty new dry too. Let's take a down the hole, it's clean. Let's go turn it to bottom dead center where's, the pull start piston all the way down. I see some scoring on the cylinder wall.
They look terrible, there's some scoring. Let me get you over there. You can see them back there a little terrible, but it definitely looks like it's ran a little malnourished for two-stroke oil. There's some more in that one right there.
Let's go get a little container, we'll dump the fuel out, there's any fuel in it, see what that looks like. Sometimes they dump them out when they go to a dump too, because they don't want any fuel. Let's see if we get anything, though it's bone dry. Take a look down inside there looks pretty clean and the filter actually has a blue tinge to it.
Like it's had two stroke oil in it, it's really clean in there. What do you think we got for oil? Let me get an air gun and we'll blow that crap off first and we'll try to do the same with the oil, not sure what the trigger needs to be. Let's just give it a shot. First, if we get anything, it might be, grounded out already nothing.
Let's go, that's probably that's probably a run position right there i got spark. It feels a little remote plugging it. It's a little on the draggy side, i'm going to go. Take a little bit of two-stroke oil and dribble it in there just kind of lubricate, the jug, it just seems very dry and spin it over a couple times to see.
If that improves things, you know you're a little bit like go around about the same yeah. What do you say, get a little bit of fuel, we'll dribble it in there we'll give our yank over with the plug i'm gon na blow this crap off. First, we'll throw it a plug in there throw fuel in there and put the plug in give it a yank and see if she goes ringing and dies find a happy spot for that she doesn't bind all right. Let's go back over here.
Actually, let's just go right down the carb, the part about dribbling it into the carb. As you get a little bit of that two-stroke oil on the crank side of things generally they'll hold up, it's not much of an issue. I wouldn't keep running it by putting it through the plug, because you're only lubricating the top end. Okay, give us some of that.
If your spark is on, let's go, give her see if she'll go. Let's make a noise. Okay, ready there you go she'll run, seem to rip kind of high for me not being on the throttle, though that's the choke side of things that seems to be functioning. Okay, i don't think the throttle works it makes for a fun saw just runs wide open. All the time - and we should be having this linkage right here - should be moving. It's not looks like it's broken off the handle that might have been the last straw. That's right out of there, it's not even locked into where it should be. That's supposed to be tapped into there.
Can we get it without taking it apart? Let me go see. We can get that into play, may not even have to take the card apart, but that's definitely going to be an issue right there, because it's going to make it hard to start hard to cut wood too. Let's see if we get that back into place without damaging anything, it's more like it. I wonder if, because of all the hand, the flex that's on that handle, if it just popped out of there, and i wonder more throttle, let's go see if we have, it just seems like normally there's some dampening, because you know what your hands getting vibrated like Crazy, so there's some cushioning built into it.
It just seems fairly extreme on this that it's able to move around so much and that's why it popped out. It's got a spring on the upper. Let's go spring on the upper right here, which i don't know if she's supposed to have a mount going right across like a piece of rubber or something on the inside. Let's go flip her over.
Take a look at the bottom and see if there's anything happening down below here, that's busted, that's what we got going on. Doesn't it seem like there should be some kind of bushing more bushings inside of here seems like that's, got an awful lot of movement to go hit. Those rubber legs like they actually might have fit into something: hmm yeah, just all that drought. That's what caused that throttle to pop out is probably you know, cutting into to a log and the throttle pop right out.
It just stayed full throttle. That was the last straw, because that's what we found you know something was up with that. Somehow we got to be able to control that either that or that linkage is maybe so bent on the other end from getting jammed, that it will pop back out of there. I don't know you want to get some more covers off.
I kind of want to leave the blade on for a little bit because it allows us to keep it in the vise and have a little support. Maybe there's an exploded view inside one of these little parts manual though huh. The only thing it shows is make sure the dampening units are securely attached to the engine and the handlebars and just shows pictures of two types. It doesn't show the ones that are my.
I would probably call it like over travel having all that gap around there. That may be just the way it is, and you know possibly these are on the weak side, but right off the bat just seemed like it moved way too much. Maybe i'm missing one. Let's go that one might be broke right, there might not be attached.
I feel like it's moving with a sorry that inside one doesn't look like it's connected to anything. That would do it. That's the closest one to the throttle too. Yes, it would be that one. I don't want the screw head ripped out of it i'll. Do it figure out the best way to get in there without to take too much stuff apart? Did it rip the hole right out? Let's go see, it's got a a spot right there i would think. Would probably be like a square nut? What's the other one, look like right there that one's just bolted right into the head? Let's go find out what happened with that one. Well, i wish whatever this corner was, would come right out of the way, but i have a feeling.
It's that's probably part of the main body of it. So getting to the back side of the other screw might be a little bit the challenge. Let's go see what happens when we end, let's get it out of there at least. Maybe what we can do is get the pull start out of our way.
We might have enough room to sneak it that way we could probably undo the other mounts too. Give us a little bit of room see if we can damage anything but get a little bit of access there, get it out of these tv. That's some breaking plastic, see if there's any broken plastic in the back. Let me put that gas cap back in there for support it's a little better to pry with all right now we see what we have, so it just looks like it unworked itself.
I don't know how you would. Can you get through the center of that to hold the screw from turning i'm sure that nuts along gone? So how are we going to get to the access this side of it be able to tighten it up? You could probably look at. Was there another spring? One on it, where was that one up front there yeah that would that one's just threaded right in so it must be able to access, must be able to fit right through the center. Well, no matter what we got to get there right.
So, let's start taking some stuff out of our way. We need to be able to get to maybe even just threads right in to the plastic i'm looking down. I don't know if you can see there's light right there. I don't know if that threads into the plastic, or they had some kind of like a weird, offset nut, see that half half round circle that's offset.
Let's get this handle out of our way, do see what else is holding that hole handle we get that throttle. The fuel tank is on this side and we got this one. I think if we get this one out of here, maybe this whole assembly will be able to pop out. That's got to go too it's just that's just a break on the handle popping on.
I go dig some hardware out of the way i think i'll i'll save you that project part of it and i'll bring you back when we find something. Let's get that pulse right out of our way, a little dirty, but not bad. What's that, i think i sucked up a piece of rope or something in the center. This has been a redhead all right, so we got some kind of pin right there. I don't know what that is. Is that another bushing that's supposed to be there? It's not there. What would that be right kind of looks like it should be something. Doesn't it the wire's a better way go a little deeper.
It looks like some kind of bushing was also in there too. That's that's gone, probably when the other one popped out. It lost that one. We could look it up online, but it's making it way too easy.
Isn't it rather do the forensics and see what we can find all right. So we need that one and if that was lined up it's not in the center. If that was in the center, it's hard to say what about? Is there anything on the back cover that makes like a because something would have held that in right with that black cover held it in just trying to see if there was a mark from something a little tail, so it would have been just partially right on The edge you see anything on the edge right there see that little, the little detent that lining up to it, no right off the very edge of it. There's some kind of dirt mark right there all right.
We still have to go figure out whether we can thread that one back together again and we have fuel lines going to be holding us and this one i could probably peek down in there right now and just see if there's any threads yeah this threads in There they look a little chewed up, but there is threads in there. So would we be able to get an allen wrench down through the center of that? That's probably how you would have to tighten it yeah, so we can get that one back together. I could actually wiggle that back in there screw that back down if it'll hold and then put the screw back in on the top without this is humbling any further. I'm going to go see if i can find exploded view and see if we are missing something from that locating pin it just seems.
Like you know what else would the purpose be? I wouldn't think you would have a metal pin just kind of banging on plastic for the stop right, but that's just we're just guessing not probably the trigger or anything. Is it the the pivot pin does it hold? Is it holding anything can't see a tag on it? I think that's the date 113 of 2000, so the saw sauce, yeah 20 years old, being speeding all right, so we're going to go, try putting a couple of pieces back together, i'm going to see if that spring assembly will thread itself back into the plastic down There without ripping out - and hopefully it does - if not we're gon na - have to do a some kind of operation about fixing that huh see we get i'd, be able to get the screw to come upward, so it's kind of nice. Hopefully, we can fish through there and you can get that start. I got something yeah hands feeling like it's ripped out, though it's got no threads, that's why it did what it did and what do we got to do to kind of cure that, though huh yeah, the screw will go back in and lock it in place. But that's not going to hold up it's going to rip out of that plastic again, so you got to figure out some kind of way that we can get that to bond together. I think we need to get this assembly away, so we can get to where those threads are that are stripped and the only way we're going to do. That is to operate a little bit more. So we got that front spring-loaded one.
I think it is. Maybe we can go to like a say: we want to call imperial standard thread and see if we can of self-tap it into it into the plastic either that out, i'm wondering if possibly maybe we could heat like a screw up and run it down into the Threads and then let it cool off and kind of like make it make its own threads yeah. How do you, how do you fix a hole in plastic threads when it goes away? Metal metal, i got it plastic might be. A different situation might also find that there's a crack or something next to the housing too.
That's just causing it to to slip out, and we still got fuel lines hooking this up too so and see if that'll open up for us. It was already out once before it should pop out again right here we go. I know the fuel lines are still connected to it too. So we need, let's drop, something, lift your foot there.
You go rubber bushing, we need to access that hole and they get something to thread into it. That will hold i'm gon na go blow that out with some air some cleaning fluid. Let's go, take a check and see what's happening down. There make sure it's salvageable of some sort and maybe i'll just get a bigger screw.
Maybe huh it's good problem is we got it? It needs something that we can get through there, plus we got to be able to get in there is that thread out of there yeah. Maybe the next difficult thing is: how do we get that apart? Without breaking that looks? Okay, i don't see, i don't see any cracks or anything in the plastic, but it has threads further down. We're probably only catching that first, i don't know four or five rows and it looks like it continues down. So possibly either we get a longer screw or you know just go from metric to standard and get one in there, but the next thing is: we have to be able to have access to it.
So, let's see if we can get this apart, get this to thread out of here. We can change the screw. That's in the middle of that, i want to dig a hole, make things worse than what we got right. One go this cracks right off the end of it.
This whole thing turning on us or is it turning that's just the whole spring. Turning on us cranked out a little bit more thing about a spring, if you uncoil it, it will get larger, possibly release. I don't know if it's pressed in there, though it'd be my guess they pressed it in there. I don't want to break that off.
I don't see that happening without damaging it. Try a little bit more because, as you untwist it, it should open up and get you as you turn the spring backwards. It should get larger as you do that going. This direction should tighten down on it. I'm going to work on that. I see a little bit of a gap that opened up right there. I think it was against it and it popped back back just a little. Let me see if i can work on that, get that out of there, i'm gon na try rotating that spring.
Let's see so that would make the spring fatter and then see if it gives it enough room where it'll turn the center there. It goes like chinese fingers in a way yeah. We got it, let's thread it onto there cool. Now we can do something with that part of it.
Let's see if we can get a screw, that can bite either further down or larger diameter and fix that and off to the land of hardware, because we're gon na need one of those, an allen, wrench setup. That'll fit down in there hopefully is is standard larger in metric kind of looking like the same thing, almost huh, it's gon na suck. If it's not because then the next size up is what it's gon na be that diameter, that's gon na be quite a bit to try to step up. You see we try we'll try to thread in.
Let's go with something long for now. Try threading one of those in here, see how it does those who don't know what that one packs reds metric, yellows standard or american sae all right. Let's see what kind of luck we can get tap on. One of these in there see, if that'll hold, probably could have put it on a caliper too and just see if it's a little bit larger, i thought it was.
You might be able to get it with one of those i'm gon na cut some new threads. Just bottom out and bottom out and we'll measure off of that, how much is left? I don't know how long of a screw to put in there and then from there we can cut one. Just so it'll have full length so we'll get the most bite. I think that's it right there, so i'm gon na go eyeball down the side of that.
I'm gon na count how many threads are there and uh reduce that from the screw minus whatever it takes for that seating, we probably could leave another one or two threads for that depth of that that last spring, that's on there go measure that up 235-ish 247. Well, not much bigger, but enough bet you a couple. Yeah yelling at me use a t-handle right now. I do not have them here at the time.
What i do have is this: you can drop an allen wrench in it pull a cover over. It kind of turns it into a t-handle that makes life a little easier. I'm gon na call that max right there. I guess you could reassemble that now drop that down.
This should actually go in fairly easy because the spring's going to want to open. I had it backwards before my thought process, but that should be able to run right down until it stopped there. You go and it back together. Let's go put that in there and see if it'll lock down tight for us yeah we're going in.
Do you have enough room to work with it and let it suck it so to speak. So you can get it like that. What i'll do is i'll, tighten it right down, we'll see if it tightens up and then i'll back it off and we'll put it back in its socket up top and do the last crank. Okay, there we go see if that's tight, yeah, it's not turning. Okay, i'm gon na go crack that loose just so it can rotate. However, it wants to fit up inside there we'll put that back together, put all the other bits and pieces and snubbers and everything back in and we'll see where we are from there getting closer. Though i bet you, that was the major issue that i had. I shouldn't have said that, so this is in the process of putting it back together and let's go tighten down that front one that i took out that one that's loose too, i'm just going to strip out, but let's go see if we can get it to Go tight because the spring was spinning all right, at least that one didn't rip out, so the handle still comes across grabs here and grabs onto this one.
Yet, but already it feels much better on the throttle. It doesn't have as much movement as it did before. Before it was all over the place, obviously the one closest to it wasn't doing anything. So we got that one and some plate taken out of the front one.
I'm gon na go blow out the saw a little bit we'll get some of this crap out of here and maybe we'll get the covers back on it and uh. I don't know. Maybe we actually put some gas in it, we'll fire it up, see if the carbs, okay and just kind of go from there, so i'm gon na go just undo what we did cleaner up put the other support back in the handle and then probably got ta. Look into that oiler would be the next thing, that's if that runs so so well, no screws left over.
So i should be close. That is much better than what we had before. Nothing was jumping around all over now. The throttle does what it should make sure everything else is operating.
Okay, just shut off. I think, to the point with tighten the plug up, we'll throw some gas back in that tank, we'll try to fire it up and see how it is functionality wise. If there's any issues with the uh, the engine and the carbon in the idle and then from there we'll go a little bit further i'll leave that top cover off. For now.
We can't run it forever because that's the cooling part of it uh sucks air in through here from the fan, blows it across the cylinder and exits out the other side, but you can run it for a couple minutes. Let's get some non-ethanol two-stroke gasoline. This is 50 to one that should be more than enough a little more. I don't.
Does this thing have a primer bulb on it? I didn't see one. I don't remember seeing one we might as well put that two-stroke oil back in too right about two-stroke oil. The barn chain oil dump that in while we're at it, but it does look like it's pretty full. I don't see any crap in there, we'll just make sure the last little bit of spangling on the bottom of the cup doesn't go in i'll leave it at that, not just for undercoating. You actually use it on a chainsaw too. So let's go fire. It up see we get like. I was saying: it's got, a primer bulb, it's good.
I think it's got. A decompression valve might be able to kind of primer a little bit choke up off that, so it shall go. Does that have a locking throttle for a higher rpm, no it'll turn the choke off. Okay.
Are we getting there? Let's go choke again. Ah sounds pretty good. Oh look for oil, probably turn the idle down. Just maybe a little bit all right.
I don't think he has any car problems and the oiler is working, and then we have to go get into that. I think whoever just ran it ran it out oil and kind of burned up that blade somewhat. Let's go pull that other side apart anyway, i'm gon na go clean up where the clutch is. Let's go pop, this off look inside using issues with it.
Take a good look at the bar see if we need to flip it over or use another one or whatever we can do to get by with that. It looks a little kitty wampus on me on that that bottom edge, but we'll take a look, don't mind. The fan noise in the background airing us out a little bit. Let's see what we got.
You know one thing: a lot of people don't do. I think you're supposed to is uh. It's like every other blade sharpening every every so often you're supposed to take the bar and flip it over, and people think that the writing is on the bar that it has just one direction that it stays. That's not true i'll prove that to you, because it has an oiler hole that is on both sides of the bar watch.
This one not have it. So that's why it has the twin set of holes that you can flip it over and run it. The other way and then it'll cause more wear damage on the other side, you're kind of evening that out where this side looks pretty baked and definitely got hot there huh i got cooked, i would say just run with no oil. I'm gon na go, look and see if that is flat.
Let's go get, let's eyeball it real quick. I don't see a bend to it. It still turns i'm gon na go wash that up and i think we need to douche out the douche out all this crap too, get that out of there and get it cleaned up. We already know the oiler is working.
Sometimes what happens? The oil will fail where you fill it up with oil just continues to drip afterwards. I don't see that being the case with this saw, though, because the box that it was in was dry and the oiler was full. I think the oiler is fine. I'm not gon na bother taking that apart.
I'm just gon na blow this stuff out clutch. You spin it backwards. It drives this way to take the clutch off, you would run it backwards and it would pop itself off. You stick like a a spark, a piece of um rope in the spark plug hole.
You can pop it backwards and take it off, i'm not seeing any issue with that. Neither what happens is as the engine revs up these push outward and catch the outer shell and if you stall it in a piece of lumber or bind it whatever, this will try to drive it, but it will slip and your forgiveness factor then add an idle. The weights go back in and the chain doesn't turn at all, but it's rpm related the centrifugal force pushing these weights out, making contact the outer shell. The outer shell drives the sprocket, and this rocker runs the chain. You go wash that up and clean that bar up yeah, it's cleaned off. You probably see it a little bit better. So this is the passage for the oiler, the oil comes out and it goes into the bar and on the bar you see now the bar's cleaned you see an oil passage there and you know this will be bolted up there, there's the one on the other Side - and this is just a locating pin or the tension pin that it holds onto which allows you to adjust the tension of the belt back and forth. Sometimes they get dirty, they get clogged and the oiler will not work.
That's not the case on this one and then on this one for the adjustment, it's actually kind of cool. Sometimes you have to come through in front of the saw, and you work here to work the adjuster this one's right in the center of it. It just turns the cam back and forth, or adjusting the blade like that, i'm going to go pop that back on and put it back together. So, let's clean up the cover on the other side - and i was looking to go wash this stuff off well, this stuff doesn't really wash off.
It's actually burned into the cover, and i don't know if they're, just a bunch of debris got on here or the clutch actually spun itself off and kind of crashed into the outer edge. Here at some point took out, some uh took out some of the metal. Some of the aluminum and grounded it could be just a bunch of crap was in there too it's hard to say, but any of this stuff could have walked its way out. These, i think, are just sitting in there with a tension.
I don't think, there's anything that really kind of holds um the clips in possibly maybe they came up and rubbed against it as far as the brake on the handle. So this right here locks into this, and if you pop the handle forward, it shortens this band as being the circle gets smaller and it tightens around the outside of the drum and that's what stalls the chain from moving and i believe it's a safety slash if You're doing something with the saw you're walking with it or something you actually pop it on too, so that inadvertently, if you hit the throttle, the blade doesn't move, but most of the time it's when the saw kicks back when it kicks back you're holding it here, Kicks back your hand, hits it and pushes the lever forward hitting it also, so it doesn't smash you in the face and cut your face in half and now let me get it back together. So, okay, all right, we got all back together. Let's give her one. Last yahoo function wise, let's run, let's try it no gas. Let's just give her a pull. Uh wow! Well, there you go, you thought it was gon na have to have a cardboard to clean. Didn't you, it wasn't gon na, be anything wrong with it.
I did too that's a little different, so the whole saw was fixed for free, except for one bad screw and it kind of just cascaded and caused a bunch of different problems. Probably the last thing was the throttle, stick in wide open and that just gave up on it. At that point, i probably keep an eye out for a bar. I actually think that one will be okay for a while.
So we cut some wood really don't know, and i do not have my sharpener with me, although they do not look terribly dull that looks pretty decent oil looks like it's might be, putting a little too much out until you run it. For you know, a couple of gas tanks get an idea what you're doing a little hard to tell, though how's that huh not bad for a little bit of work, and our only problem was that stripping out of the plastic all right guys with that. Thanks for hanging out with me and have a little bit of fun and uh, bringing back together, some uh scrap yard saves for uh next to nothing actually nothing. So with that i'll see you soon later, yeah go for it.
It's definitely a cold cold start because it was 19 degrees. Last night, nothing was sitting outside it's cold start and it's 19 degrees and i'm handicapped, okay. Okay, no, it's got a okay, i got it on switch yeah. It's up came up with the choke yep and you give her a couple yanks and then the choke shuts off.
When maybe there you go. Ah, oh man, so what's your thoughts on the junkiest chainsaw they ever made. That's what they call it. I'd say this: one is, i mean, leave it here, leave it here, all right that was good for uh being right out of the pocket cold too yeah.
I think i think it does just fine awesome. You.
Any Sawyer worth their sap would never call that husky the worst chance I ever made us burners are the best there is around the world they are used very much most just my opinion but there's a lot of them out there having a member of the Air Force Huskies forever they're high RPMs they're air injection you can't beat it my brother was a Johnson's Red band most of his life then he went to steal finally he quit fighting it and went to a Husqvarna 272 XP loved it just my thought that's not worth a plug nickel everyone stay safe enjoy your day stay healthy..God bless
Maybe you should get yourself up to date with the product, and not used more than half of your video to do fault finding.
Then a course in fault finding is definitely a must for you!!!!
You should be ashamed of this video.
👎👎👎💩
Awrsome…love the damper fix.
I believe it needs a rubber bushing on the one pin/left side…
The clutch needle bearings needs grease(that why the chain moves at idle)
Idle is a tad high
Always let it warm up a minute before opening up
Really nice vid…thanks
ALL CHAIN SAWS ARE GARBAGE !! Doesn’t matter what kind of make it is ! Axes are better you hit a stone yet still sharp to keep on working you hit a stone with a saw it starts burning you got to sharpen it again stupid is as stupid does they’re making money lots on SAWS 😡😡 !!
A few years ago I purchased a returned Husqvarna chainsaw at a discount price; I returned it also…spent more time trying to get it started then using it! I purchased a Poulan 262 new, but same story. After spending $75 to have a small engine repair shop tune it up, I still spent more time trying to start it then using it. I figured if I kept that up, I'd have forearms like Popeye. I tossed that one in the trash. I now use a Greenworks 40V battery powered chainsaw: instant start up, and it does what I need done. Combined with an Oregon PowerSharp bar, chain and sharpener, that is all most homeowners need.
Im 70 and started using a chain saw in 1964. Thats when my father bought a new XL 12 homelite. The last new chainsaw I bought was a Husky rancher 55 in 2000. It was Ok but never oiled very good. I repaired and fixed on it quite often and it still runs. However ive got my belly full of plastic chainsaws. Just never liked them and they are now even worse. Now Ive came full circle and are currently using & enjoying vintage 60,s & 70,s Homelites. Great saws with manual oiling. No loosey goosey vibration isolation. They are magnesiun saws with rubber fuel lines. Ive got 4 XL 12s a 925 and a 550. None have roller tip bars. and I use Murphy ethanol regular gas and Wal Mart Super tech mixing oil. Mixed 1/2 pint to every gallon of gas. I really enjoy the blue smoke and loud exhaust. I clear cut 4 acres of scrub cull timber last winter with those saws. If you want to use a vintage chainsaw check out Leons Saws on U Tube.
I've had my Husqvarna saw for almost 20 years. It gets moderate use, but I always make sure it's cleaned up, and everything tightened back up as needed. Whoever had this saw, abused it, then wanted to blame the saw for failure. That saw is just a residential, light farm work type saw. You can't expect more than they're designed to give. Nice job fixing her up. You got a free saw! Chainsaws ain't cheap these days!
HURPADOO fellow boomers. Thats the best chainsaw that ever graced gods green earth. It says so right on the side. That's why it always ends up in the dump and, half the time, doesnt work fresh from the box. Whoever threw this away probably doesnt know how to use a chainsaw. User error.
Edit: "how do you fix a hole in plastic threads" Thread repair kit. ebay. $10 (right now) straight from CHYNA. should be able to be had for less. name brand: Heli coils. Drill hole. Insert coil. Sometimes tap hole. Sometimes its better not to and just send it in on softer material you're threading, like wood. The coil can pull out from soft material from cinching the bolt down. Not tapping and just sending it leaves a tighter hole and more meat to grab. Thats a protip.
I had an old Husqvarna saw that wanted to rip your fingers off while pulling the cord. I fixed it permanently and then bought a new saw . There is great satisfaction in taking revenge out on a saw that hurts your fingers. Sledge hammer worked well
I won every lent a chainsaw to a neighbor and he tells me the saw is junk ! Yea he put oil in the gas fill and put oil in the gas fill ! Or a person doesn’t put oil in the gas mix ! Good friend ! Advise ! Don’t lend your praise saw to a newborn