Why don't you tell nobody if it's a hydraulic or a solid lift and why don't you do it like it's a new motor tell everybody if they got a jam nut on it it's solid lift and when you just run the bolt down it's hydraulic
I have a 351W it's starting to tap a good bit. I'm thinking it needs a valve adjustment. So I'm clear. What I'm seeing done here is a complete loosening of the nut in till it starts tapping , waiting a few seconds then a retreating of the nut…
Would a rod knock be twice as fast as a valve tick? I've had a tick in my 1968 302 for a long time but today it seemed a lot louder… but it's pretty slow at idle.
Will this work when the camshaft isn’t stock? I have comp cams and it says to use a specific valve clearance. Could I just do it the way in the video and not worry about measuring the clearance on each valve? Also what do you do with the vacuum/pcv lines from the valve covers? Thanks.
Will following this procedure work with a 1976 Mercury Cougar XR7 with a 351 Windsor? I'm fairly certain I can hear a valve tap developing, but I'm new to the vintage car world and engines in general. Also, does the 351W for that year have hydraulic lifters on it?
Hey sir thank you for the video, quick question, i'm resurrecting a 289 MERC COUGAR and has 2 questions..
(1) I remember from my high school years not having to untorque/loosen any bolts, there is just the hold down bolt that spun with a moderate amount of force… is that true for the 289? (1968)
(2) if i feel or thing there is a oil flow issue on one cylinder or warped rod.. how do i pull the rocker off safely, and how do i put the rods and rocker back on.. any insight or good web links you could share? thank you in advance!
Great video. Got a ‘68 to do tomorrow. I will like and sub.
Why don't you tell nobody if it's a hydraulic or a solid lift and why don't you do it like it's a new motor tell everybody if they got a jam nut on it it's solid lift and when you just run the bolt down it's hydraulic
She's going to miss if those wires aren't good. You won't hear it over the scream though
Sorry that's not the correct procedure to set the valve lash on small block Ford's check your manual
Is the adjustment possible with the Ford 351 cleveland?
I have a 351W it's starting to tap a good bit. I'm thinking it needs a valve adjustment. So I'm clear. What I'm seeing done here is a complete loosening of the nut in till it starts tapping , waiting a few seconds then a retreating of the nut…
what tool would thumb down this good vid.
Would a rod knock be twice as fast as a valve tick? I've had a tick in my 1968 302 for a long time but today it seemed a lot louder… but it's pretty slow at idle.
Will this work when the camshaft isn’t stock? I have comp cams and it says to use a specific valve clearance. Could I just do it the way in the video and not worry about measuring the clearance on each valve? Also what do you do with the vacuum/pcv lines from the valve covers? Thanks.
Can I borrow that valve cover?! Great stuff
Will this technique work on a '69 351w?
Will following this procedure work with a 1976 Mercury Cougar XR7 with a 351 Windsor? I'm fairly certain I can hear a valve tap developing, but I'm new to the vintage car world and engines in general. Also, does the 351W for that year have hydraulic lifters on it?
Hey sir thank you for the video, quick question, i'm resurrecting a 289 MERC COUGAR and has 2 questions..
(1) I remember from my high school years not having to untorque/loosen any bolts, there is just the hold down bolt that spun with a moderate amount of force… is that true for the 289? (1968)
(2) if i feel or thing there is a oil flow issue on one cylinder or warped rod.. how do i pull the rocker off safely, and how do i put the rods and rocker back on.. any insight or good web links you could share? thank you in advance!