excellent video until you said "trigger it by hand". For anyone watching this video NEVER touch the contacts with your bare hands! You can use the plastic cap to move the contacts or a wood stick etc. Remember Safety first!
Mustie1 did not install a deep well jet pump, rather he installed a convertible jet pump which can be used for either a swallow well jet system or a deep well system. In a shallow well system it would have an ejector mounted to the end of it and then attach via a single pipe out to the well. In a deep well system the pump would attach as shown within the video, but would have a back pressure regulator, such as can be seen on the old pump removed, which was not installed with the new pump. (It's the threaded rod with lock nut on the old pump.) The back pressure regulator regulates how much water goes back down the well to power the jet, which is what makes a deep well pump work. Mustie1 must have a fairly high water table for his 100' well or his 3/4 copper piping to his tank provided just enough back pressure to allow his pump to power the jet down the well. For this Goulds pump one would use either an AV1 or AV22 regulator.
Note: In almost all cases when a jet pump will not build over 30lbs pressure it's not the pump which is bad, rather it's a plugged ejector, which is either on the end of the pump in a shallow well jet, or down the well with a deep well jet pump. Exceeding care should be exercised in replacing such a pump so as to not get ANY flecks of rust or mineral scale down the well, as that can plug the jet, requiring the jet to be pulled from the well to be cleared. Over 90% of deep well pumps bought by homeowners for self installation get returned, because it wasn't the pump which was the problem in the first place.
The alternative is to call a well driller, not a plumber. A good plumber will attempt to install a new pump. A great plumber will tell you you need a well driller.
I didn't take the forecast as seriously as I should have, as a consequence the very old indoor (garage) pump froze and now it's leaking badly from the "seal," and I guess the switch chatter is a result of pressure drop. The gauge reads 10 psi. Looks like new pumps come with pressure switches low and attached. Did your pump come with fittings?
Thank you so much. My first time replacing well pump. Yesterday our area got dumped on with 30+ inches of snow. All the plumbers were busy helping to restore heating, so long story short your video was a real saver for us. Thank you again.
I was told that if the Jet valve was clogged, the pump would pump up to about 40 Lbs. and just keep running, and will never build up the 50 Lbs. it set at, it will just keep running until the pump burns out. I was afraid that was the problem here!!!
This is the same set up as mine, but i don't have the valve between the tank and the pump, so when i try to put the 28 psi in the tank, it goes straight to the pump and shoots out, any ideas? This is the first set up i've seen with a valve in between, but it seemed to work,
So glad I found this video. Mine was bit easier to hook up the tubes, as my tubes are coming up from what is like a stone well capped off. I do what I can for myself. Thank you!!!!
Great job on editing videos. I am trying to find some kind of video editing program or something that will run. That's for Polish use. I don't seem like any Polacks make any software. At least not for video editing. You know the dummy books that they sell. Those are even pull up proof 🙂
I tell you a Nifty little trick a plumber showed me years and years ago. It's taking old t-shirt and strip it into like half inch wide strips. Got to be a cotton t-shirt. And make sure the strips are about foot and a half long. Soak through strips in water and bring them out and around your fitting on the pump to keep it from overheating the Teflon and overheating anything inside the pump that might be rubber. Just taking wrap one of those just around the fitting not over where your soldering but around the fitting. Works like a champ man! If you got something you don't want to damage like a gauge or a valve that's got rubber seats in it. Like your valve up there you could have wrapped it with one of them and just that little bit of water will dissipate the heat from it and keep it from destroying anything inside of it. Great job mustie1. I've solder 3 inch copper 300 PSI for the first time about 5 years ago in our church. Scared the crap out of me.
Most cases its the pressure switch. Check it first. If you tweek the pressure settings see if the switch will shut pump off at a little lower pressure. Sometimes the screws will back out with temp changes. Ive had that problem and fixed a family members with a new pressure switch . Thanks for sharing
Thanks!
What is the tubing between the two pipes coming from the wall? I have the water splashing out of it. Anyone knows?
excellent video until you said "trigger it by hand". For anyone watching this video NEVER touch the contacts with your bare hands! You can use the plastic cap to move the contacts or a wood stick etc. Remember Safety first!
Looks like the video editing training was a winner.
Didn’t you have to prime the well line also?
Mustie1 did not install a deep well jet pump, rather he installed a convertible jet pump which can be used for either a swallow well jet system or a deep well system. In a shallow well system it would have an ejector mounted to the end of it and then attach via a single pipe out to the well. In a deep well system the pump would attach as shown within the video, but would have a back pressure regulator, such as can be seen on the old pump removed, which was not installed with the new pump. (It's the threaded rod with lock nut on the old pump.) The back pressure regulator regulates how much water goes back down the well to power the jet, which is what makes a deep well pump work. Mustie1 must have a fairly high water table for his 100' well or his 3/4 copper piping to his tank provided just enough back pressure to allow his pump to power the jet down the well. For this Goulds pump one would use either an AV1 or AV22 regulator.
Note: In almost all cases when a jet pump will not build over 30lbs pressure it's not the pump which is bad, rather it's a plugged ejector, which is either on the end of the pump in a shallow well jet, or down the well with a deep well jet pump. Exceeding care should be exercised in replacing such a pump so as to not get ANY flecks of rust or mineral scale down the well, as that can plug the jet, requiring the jet to be pulled from the well to be cleared. Over 90% of deep well pumps bought by homeowners for self installation get returned, because it wasn't the pump which was the problem in the first place.
The alternative is to call a well driller, not a plumber. A good plumber will attempt to install a new pump. A great plumber will tell you you need a well driller.
Daring with the flame…
I didn't take the forecast as seriously as I should have, as a consequence the very old indoor (garage) pump froze and now it's leaking badly from the "seal," and I guess the switch chatter is a result of pressure drop. The gauge reads 10 psi.
Looks like new pumps come with pressure switches low and attached. Did your pump come with fittings?
Appreciate the demo, we're going to try DIY.
Thank you so much. My first time replacing well pump. Yesterday our area got dumped on with 30+ inches of snow. All the plumbers were busy helping to restore heating, so long story short your video was a real saver for us. Thank you again.
I was told that if the Jet valve was clogged, the pump would pump up to about 40 Lbs. and just keep running, and will never build up the 50 Lbs. it set at, it will just keep running until the pump burns out. I was afraid that was the problem here!!!
I watched this when it came out 7 years ago and today it has come to help me.
Thank your for all the random “fix it” videos. IT WAS A HUGE HELP!!!
This is the same set up as mine, but i don't have the valve between the tank and the pump, so when i try to put the 28 psi in the tank, it goes straight to the pump and shoots out, any ideas? This is the first set up i've seen with a valve in between, but it seemed to work,
You did a pretty good job there mustie. Great video mate
So glad I found this video. Mine was bit easier to hook up the tubes, as my tubes are coming up from what is like a stone well capped off. I do what I can for myself. Thank you!!!!
Great job on editing videos. I am trying to find some kind of video editing program or something that will run. That's for Polish use. I don't seem like any Polacks make any software. At least not for video editing. You know the dummy books that they sell. Those are even pull up proof 🙂
I tell you a Nifty little trick a plumber showed me years and years ago. It's taking old t-shirt and strip it into like half inch wide strips. Got to be a cotton t-shirt. And make sure the strips are about foot and a half long. Soak through strips in water and bring them out and around your fitting on the pump to keep it from overheating the Teflon and overheating anything inside the pump that might be rubber. Just taking wrap one of those just around the fitting not over where your soldering but around the fitting. Works like a champ man! If you got something you don't want to damage like a gauge or a valve that's got rubber seats in it. Like your valve up there you could have wrapped it with one of them and just that little bit of water will dissipate the heat from it and keep it from destroying anything inside of it. Great job mustie1. I've solder 3 inch copper 300 PSI for the first time about 5 years ago in our church. Scared the crap out of me.
Wow it looks like you live in the city there. You wouldn't be on city water?
Most cases its the pressure switch. Check it first. If you tweek the pressure settings see if the switch will shut pump off at a little lower pressure. Sometimes the screws will back out with temp changes.
Ive had that problem and fixed a family members with a new pressure switch .
Thanks for sharing