Hey guys and how's it going. I got this mid-90s toro wheel, horse riding mower that i've been asked to take a look at a little bit of the back story. Was the owner went and replaced the drive belt on it and it drove for about 20 feet and died, and then couldn't figure out what was going on from there? He took it to a local small engine shop. They had it for about a week and they could not figure it out either.

So he asked me to go. Take a look at it and uh make no promises, but we'll give it a shot. So you can figure out what happened and possibly repair it. If not at least kind of figure out what what's going on with it without further ado, let's go get her up on the operating table and see if we can figure it out right here.

We just hop up in the seat, we'll hit the brake, we'll give her a crank and just give it a listen. First, it does anything and we have nothing at all ptos off no power right now. Let's go see, find out it's in here for like a dead battery right, let's go throw a tesla on there see if we get any power fuse box is hanging so that the battery has power, so it should have done something. This will give her a quick visual walk around see.

I see that fuse box is hanging on the other side. I'm sure somebody's been poking and hoping on it too to see what goes on, and so, let's pull the pack see wires, ripped out of it and go testing those cheesebook. Let's go, i'm gon na get a light, a little bit better idea what we got happening. The ignition switch looks very clean.

Usually that's got a lot of corrosion on it back in there. I don't see an issue. There has a bunch of relays, so it's probably using those for interlocks all right. Let's try jumping.

We have power going directly going down from the battery hot side to the starter. Let's go. Take a jumper we're going to jump between the signal, the key switch signal to crank the starter and see, if that part of it works. I'm gon na put her up in a year now a few people ask me what my lift is called a handy, lift, they're, very calm.

If you just google handy, the name of them will come up been around for a long time. They make them where they can run with air or electric all right, so that big lead should have 12 volts going down to the starter. Let's just double check that guess around somewhere, which we do. I'm gon na check the post too, because sometimes you don't have it at the post, pull that back again.

That's the signal coming from the key the talithic crank over and we're going to come back with a jumper wire clip that on. If we touch that starter, that starter should crank, which it does the battery sounds like a little low yeah all right, so i'm gon na throw a battery charger on that it does sound like the engine has compression. So it's not like i'm afraid that the engine is blowing up. I just do a jumper pack on it.

Just so we don't listen to that battery charger, buzz, give it another. Listen. What are we doing? What are you doing? Give her a little all right, so it sounds pretty good compression sounds good. I don't see an issue there, i'm going to turn the key to the on position.

I see the headlights are on right now, nothing, we get nothing on crank, let's go pull the plug and we'll see if we have any spark with the key in the on position all right. Let's go ground that some tin right there and we'll crank it again. All right so no spark, and it doesn't want to crank with the key. The engine will have a ground kill wire on it and that generally get this out of the way for a second will be uh going to the two coils and it grounds the coils out and kills spark from happening.

So we should be able to unplug whatever it might be, so this will probably be charging system and that kill wire as of right. Now, i'm not sure what color it is. We don't really care about the charging system. Let's go and plug that and we're going to go, try it again and see.

If spark comes back, let's go try that again, yeah oops and, as you can see, it's she's sparking away. It's weird that it's sparking more across than the body to the sheet metal than it is to the plug, but that is not our issue all right, so something is telling us telling us telling it not to put out spark and not to crank. So i don't know if it thinks that a safety is on that, possibly my guess, because he changed the belt is going to think that the uh brake pedal is not depressed and the seat would be not. If i see if it's even plugged in it is still plugged in so my guess is it thinks it's not someone's not sitting on the tractor and trying to start it and possibly that the uh brake pedal is not locked down? I do have the brake pedal in the locked position, so we're gon na get a light.

We'll go take a peek underneath it go. Try to find what that safety is. This is the brake pedal. I'm talking you're talking about forwarding versus the hydrostatic tractor forward, hit the pedal forward back.

It's poor pedal back and you lock that up and the only other thing could be also with that. If it thinks the mower deck is on, it doesn't even have a mower deck on it and it's electric pto. So i don't think that's going to be an issue but we'll find out. Okay, we'll get a light and we're underneath.

I want to make sure the wires for the ptl not ripped out of it and that the lock is still on it. Sometimes somebody will change a belt and that switch when you pull it up on the dash puts power down to a clutch. It locks this clutch in and allows the mower deck to spin or not spin, but sometimes people miss this part right here, the little lock pin that holds it and the first first time they hit it we're turning on this whole assembly spins and it rips the Wires out, i do not see that being an issue right now, so look at the plug on the other side, where it plugs in real quick. So those come up through the front and i believe, are going to be these right here.

Uh wait a second! I see a wire i'll get you there get this out of the way it's like a wire is pulling out right there. That is not even plugged in, and it looks like one of those is not sitting proud all the way they're not at the same height. Maybe that's supposed to be the way it is, but let's go quickly, try plugging that in and see. If that does anything again, i wouldn't think that would be exposed like that, though, maybe we'll get a little screwdriver someone go push on that make sure.

That's all the way in on the tab. I can't see that i shouldn't say that i can't see it not yeah that won't weigh in i wasn't doing anything. It's all depends on how it's connected to the relays. I would think that just pulling the button up and not would be what uh tells it to work or not.

Let's go give that back on there again, we'll give her a crank. Do we have the big? No, we don't have this plugged in. Yet let me go put you in the stand, like everything plugged back in, let's see if it'll just crank with the key still does not crank with the key. I had that plug back on.

Let's go put a jumper on it and at least see. If spark came back, i'm kind of doubting it, but let's just go see yeah still, no spark that wasn't our issue all right. That's after our quick visual. I still didn't look where the uh with the pedal safety is yet.

But while we're up here and while this fuse box is kind of flapping around like this, let's go get the test light and we will, wherever it ended up we'll probe the back of each one of these with with it on the crank position we'll see. If we have power on one side and not the other, i see we get without the key being on first see if you get anything that one lights up, good, that one's going across nothing and nothing that one that one has products so anyway, it doesn't have Anything is the red one: let's try going to crank position and we'll see if power's on either side of that it is not. So it's probably for something else, maybe the electric pto nope. I heard the pto click, though so not sure what that circuit is, for.

I unplug the seat, so it doesn't think anybody's sitting there still no difference on the crank. Let's um i'm going to try jumping the contacts on the seat so inside the seat. This little set of contacts and some are normally open. Some are normally closed.

I'm not sure which way. This is that's why i'm trying it ball first unplugged and then i'm just going to take a jumper and go past those two contacts, and it will trick it into thinking that you're sitting on the seat and see if we get anything out of it. Still. No crank all right, someone already has the belly pan removed.

I'm not sure what happened with that. So, let's go take a quick look. I see a pinch on the wires right. There not sure what they are going to see.

Another pinch on those don't seem cutting all the way through, though i would think. Probably one set is going to the seat and the other, possibly is that interlock i see a block right down there with a tie, wrap going through it. I wonder if they have it bypassed with a tie, wrap keeping it in the locked position. Maybe it fell off.

I have no idea what you can can't see. I am looking up at that plug right here. The tie wrap, i think, was just holding the wires out of the way and you see different contacts on the side of that. That's one, that's the other.

What would they operate so? One of them, i would think, would be for the brake pedal right. Let's go: take the brake pedal and release it and we'll see if any of these are depressed and what the other one would be for, would they both be for that just operating different things? You know one is for getting off the tractor ones running, maybe one's for making a crank. Let's go uh! Let that break pedal off and see if it comes back, although far enough to go click. Those yeah see if they did anything for us, so yeah they're much closer, are they being made that one is i'm listening for a click and that would be for the other way anyway.

Right that would be for right now would be interrupting the system and when the brake falls forward, those being open the other way around. We got to probe those and see if the signal is going through, that it looks like one's normally see different locations where they're they're probing out from one's wire here and here so one looks like one's normally open, they're, probably the same switch and same plug right. So that one going from there to there and that one going from there to the far one one's gon na be normally open one's gon na be normally closed. I'm not convinced that that is our issue, yet i'm just kind of brainstorming as of right now, because, especially when he said he had changed a belt which would be this belt.

What would get interrupted in doing that? You know we figured that would be along the lines and plus we did find that plug loose for the pto. I was just sitting in this location not plugged all the way in so i'm not sure quite what they did with this tractor, and you can tell somebody's definitely been poking around in it and, like i said, the the bolts are out for the fuse box and People have been poking and prod and trying to find what its electrical issue is, and i have a feeling. So let me put a new ignition switching because that, for the age of this tractor that looks like spotlessly new. So i suspect that somebody replaced that, let's unbolt it we'll pull the ignition switch back away from it, and i want to probe on the back of it, and i want to see if we go to crank position.

If we have a signal coming out of the switch at least going to the relays and through the rush uh the rest of the safeties, so let me go get a pair of pliers and get that off of there and start doing a little investigation. Yeah. That definitely looks super clean, too clean, so i don't have a pin out of what wire does what but we're going to go. Here's our test light we'll go through the test, light on it and we'll see.

If we have power going out, i mean it's your first uh, let's go throw a key in it, put it in front of the camera, where you can see it right. Let me go. I'm gon na bend your head down a little bit all right, so so blue has power coming in orange. Has power coming in white? Has power coming in and red okay? So let's go the only one that didn't have power which, which was the white and let's go crank it okay, so the other one doesn't have anything going out is white right.

We got a white and an off way so that one's got nothing. Red's got power and that one's got nothing. Let's go. Give that one a crank too.

The other part of it, too, is so that's the power going out that one, that's the signal going out is white. Does it have a tracer on it? I don't see a tracer on that one about the other one, so one's bright, white and ones. I don't even call that dirty white, so that is where our signal goes out, and so we know the key switch is working at least to go. Send power down to the starter wire, which is flipped over to a blue wire.

Let's go take a look on that fuse panel and see what goes into where we try to chase that back, so so that dirty white is going to this relay right here and which one see if we can find where the blue goes exits. Is it the same relay or a different one? What color is that one exactly so it would be kind of a dark, blue right kind of seems like it's this one next to it, and that could be, i mean they could jump from one to the other. I'm gon na go pop a couple of those relays out real quick, we'll go. Take a quick look at them if they're the same, maybe we're gon na try swapping locations, so we see if we get any change on them.

So these two are the same, and these two are the same. I swapped locations, let's see, if that does anything for us, is everything still hooked up brake is on, i'm not sure about the seat safety. I really should look into that and yeah still nothing. I'm gon na go look into the seat safety kind of eliminate that what i'm gon na do is i'm gon na take a test light or a meter router i'm going to go probe to see if this is normally open or normally closed, then i'll know what State to put this in so it pretends that somebody's sitting in the seat.

Let's go figure that out. We have the meter on ohms. That's just looking for a path. If i cross you together, it'll go to zero.

So that's what i'm looking for in a seat! Whether it stays open or it goes to zero with nobody sitting in it it's open. I should probably confirm that by putting some weight on the seat and pushing that safety down, i'm not sure i'm gon na be able to do that though anyway. So open is the condition we want to look for, not that i'm gon na off camera, i'm gon na go double check that i'm gon na i'm gon na hop up on the seat. Uh, try to put some leads on it hanging out of the sides and make sure that this closes and that this circuit is working.

I think you see the meter if i push down on the seat. It goes to zero, so it's normally open and when it is somebody's sitting in it it grounds out, so that does need to be grounded out or jumped. I should say i can do a little recap just so that i kind of remember what i did and that you guys can kind of follow along and hopefully didn't lose anybody all right. So we know the seat needs to have it jumped to make pretend that somebody's sitting in it gets that out of the circuit.

We know that we get spark back if we unplug the safety harness from it and we just let the engine run. So we know there's not a problem inside the engine with the coils or anything. Those are okay and we know that the ignition switch seems to be working and the relays, i believe, are working because i swapped them and there was no difference in swapping where the relays are so possibly i'm kind of going back to we. I believe we have some safety telling it not to crank and not to have spark it thinks something is on.

It thinks either we are not on the tractor, the brake is not on and or it thinks the mower deck is on is my guess. It's kind of one of those scenarios i'm zeroing in on those switches. Uh, we can go it's just it's just a little rough to try to get to to go pro. That's why i'm not jumping on that right away.

Let's go! Take a quick look at the pto switch and see if it thinks that possibly this is on and let's actually let's listen, so it turned on you hear the actual pto turning on and you can still hear like it's. This relay that's clicking when i'm doing it. So it doesn't seem like it makes any difference. Let's go.

Take a peek at the back of that. What is that telling it's just oil pressure? It does not have a low oil telling it not the crank. Does it. I think he's just saying that, because the key's on it's not spinning, let's go take a quick look and make sure it doesn't have a low oil shut off, which generally will be like a plug on the side of the case, with a wire sticking out of It sensing for oil - i do not see one.

It also looks like somebody ripped the wires out of this loom that are down here, which would probably be all these right here. They've ripped out, it's tough dealing with somebody that somebody else has already been screwed. You know if we had gotten this originally without somebody screwing around with it, you may have had a better shot at things. Let's go pop, this off real, quick.

Let's look at the end of the plug, make sure we don't have any corrosion, so that's only got three wires coming out of it yeah, so it's gon na be powering power out and the third one would be safety. Let's go probe that and try to educate yourself what is doing what for the pto, so one of these should be power. Orange has power center has nothing and the outer one has power. Why would two of them have power? What would the purpose of that be? So gray and orange both have power.

Why would you need power to once it's one's just going to go power? You would think you were just going to jump from one leg to another and send the signal down. Hmm those two brown ones are tied together right. I'm gon na go try taking that switch out of there. I'm gon na go probe the back of that switch and see what it does.

I think somebody's had this out too. The boot i'll show you what i mean by the boot steering wheel, boot steering column boot is all lifted up and when i went to go take this out, one of the prongs is already broken off that hold it. Some of the little legs kind of popped. In you got to squeeze all these in and get the switch out, let's go plug the wires in and we'll probe those three see what does what that's all plugged in keys on? Well, you already know we have power on both one of those and nothing in the center, see what changes, what and nothing in the center there and there.

So still, nothing goes down the center of it sure that make sure the key is on yeah. The dash is lit and the brake is on, so we should think right now so does which one crosses yeah the center one runs the clutch in i'm just putting 12 volts to it. So either side will fire that clutch if something's telling it not to turn on it could be that just just that, it's not running i'm trying to figure out. This has been going along with you.

So if you're getting confused, i'm not there yet neither i'm just trying to yeah anyway, i think i'm to the point where i want to go and probe those micro switches, i'm not sure if i'm going to get you down inside there to go. Look at everything. It's kind of tight to get in there, especially with a test light and everything. So if i find anything i'll, let you know or show you and report back to you in a second with what my results are.

Not sure how well you can be able to see you can see, i got the the little alligator clip that right there on the lead which, where the white wire came off of, and then i got the other probe on the other one and it is normally Open, i click it over that one is changing state, let's go see if the other one does the same thing and the other one comes off at different terminals, so that one's going to be the opposite. So in this resting state it's normally closed and if i go to click it, it's normally open. So both of those switches are working. I do not see them being our problem.

I'm gon na take a quick look at the end of the wires but uh. I think we've got to look out the way, otherwise elsewhere, all right, we'll go elsewhere all right, so i decided to probe around a little bit more to see if i found any more safeties anywhere on them and lo and behold, let's see in there, if you Can see that little shiny screw sticking out of the bottom down there with the tab coming off of it it's about dead center of your screen right now. You can keep this light here. That's the seat, safety that you lock up and it's just not making it right.

Now, it's off right now it's on. Let's see what we get oh come on. I thought we had it. That's not being made.

I'm gon na go take a second and bend that a little bit so that when the brake pedal is on like it is that that is is seeing that signal. So that's the one that's right now, it's not right! Now it's not being made try to get you in there again. The other problem i see i was trying to go deal with. That is the uh that wiring loom.

This wiring loom is tucked in behind it. So this is stopping things from happening like it should, and that's the one i guess the one they strip the wires out of let's go pull that out of the way. Yes, that's literally run in front of that that lever there see if we can get that there you go out of the equation yeah, but that wasn't what was causing. I still got to go bend that let me go take care of that.

So i'm looking around and i'm seeing all these little cuts, you want to call them cuts. Those are stab marks from a test light. Those are not cuts, that's probing into the wire see if a signal is going through them. I see that also you look on the black wire.

You see it on the black white. You can see a stab inside on that. One too see it put a light, adjusted all right. So again, somebody worked on this for a week.

They went probed and picked and stabbed all over the place and we're not able to find it uh. I do see that being one issue that that was not being made so that was acting like the break was not on. That would make it so it would not crank um. I don't know if that was the original problem and someone's been through it and connecting and disconnecting things and swapping things around again.

Like i said, the boot was ripped up on it and the switches were taking out of it. So it's a little hard to say you know your second fiddle on this stuff, so uh it could be anything from somebody put a different ignition switch in. It's, not the correct one. Anything like that.

I do see one more see wires coming back to here and they go to what looks like a neutral. That's the little shift plate for the hydrostatic forward in reverse, so i do see one more switch. Whatever these wires are going to those right there, i'm going to try to take a peek up underneath there see what we have for switch on that and see. If that is doing what it's supposed to be doing so trying to figure out what that is - and i figured it out that metal plate on top of it and then it has a big uh electric electromagnet on it, that is cruise control.

So, wherever you move the lever, if you hit cruise control it locks it up and holds the pedal where it needs to be so as you rock this pedal forward and back you're driving, so you're cutting a lot of grass, you lock it in the forward position. You hit this it'll lock that magnet on the back and just hold the lever where it is until you hit the brake pedal and then it'll shut it back off or turn the switch off. So that's not our issue so kind of starting to run out of things to check, and i turn the key on and one thing i do see, i'm not sure if it should or should not work is the parking light. Would that come on the parking pedal? Is on right, let's go flip, see if the pto switch does anything yeah that doesn't light up either.

Let's go real, quick check, the bulbs make sure it doesn't have a burned out bulb. It could possibly be part of the circuit and it's not being completed. If a bulb fails, i'm just guessing that's looking pretty burned out to me. I'm gon na put a light across it, but that's a lot of them black.

So i tell you this. If you can see up, i ended up swapping the bulb for the uh pto, because that was not lit. Neither now the pto works. Hmm, i don't have a good bolt for the brake light yet, but let's just see nope all kinds of weird stuff going on huh.

So even after i replace the bulb for the parking light, it still wasn't lighting up and i went and i took a look probing around. We know it's got to be off that that lower switch and wiggle the see if we get you in there right yeah. Let's see the light right, there's bare wires move them around. I am looking at right there.

There is a brown in a gray wire. I am hoping that's showing up right to the right of that spring right. There see that right there and they were bare. I moved them around and then the light came on, so that's part of the signal not getting there still no crank, though well what i'm going to do.

I just want to assess what's happening. I want to go and just crank it by jumping the starter. I want to see if we got spark back or not yet keys on. Let's what are we doing? You want to see if that plug will spark when we jump over it? Yes, we have spark, so we did figure out half of a problem.

So i'm not quite sure what was causing it not to have spark something caused it to die. We found that i don't know if it was. This switch not being made on that contact just barely and or the one that was grounding out. Having the light not come on, so we've chased a couple of things and then the bulb was no good for the pto.

Let's make sure that is still working wherever that plug went. Give it a second, oh call me a liar there. It goes yeah. So that's working parking light is working now we just just still do not have a good crank coming out of it and where is the starter where's the switch double check on it, one more time we're still hooked up.

Let's see if we get anything yeah, we still do not have crank. It's the only thing we don't have it'll run, it should run, don't try firing it up. Let's see make sure all that part of it's still good you'll see the engine part of the function functions at least. Let's go for a full choke.

She runs. She runs while i hold power to that wire hold on a second. Let's go, try something yeah. So, by back feeding that we allow it to have spark runs for a couple of seconds and dies.

Let me see if we can knock that throttle down now. What might be going on is that the if the carburetor has a fuel shut off, it's probably the fuel shut off, not getting power, so it's only using whatever fuel is in there and it disappears. Let's go double check for spark real quick see if that's still there and we need to put power to there right. Yeah still got spark, so it's just no fuel, so we got part of it.

We got part of it working that we have spark again. I have a feeling that there was one problem now after everybody screwing with it generated several problems, so we're getting closer. I think - and it probably was the original problem now they just dug a hole a little bit deeper and let's go pop that air cleaner off real, quick. Let me go check and see if there is that solenoid on the bottom of the carburetor like i was talking about, and then that would need to get power, i'm going to trace that back.

So you could find something: that's common for that not getting energy and that not getting energy so got the air cleaner. Out of the way we can kind of see into the car. This is that fuel shutoff. This needs to see 12 volts as soon as 12.

Volts disappears: it plugs off the fuel source, so it keeps basically for run on. The tractor doesn't run on afterwards and starts that coughing, a fart and pop back and then right next to it is that low oil pressure switch wire. I was talking about, which is this right. Here was just hidden, we couldn't see it, so it's either looking for oil pressure and it may just work a light, sometimes like on a generator on a oil pressure light.

It will not allow it to run. It is full of oil. Of course, i already checked that i'm gon na go grab a test light real, quick and we're just gon na go see if we have a signal in the on position grab my test light wherever that decided to zigzag itself. To.

Let's see if we have anything coming out of either one we don't have power there and i'm pretty sure we are not going to have power to the solenoid now, so that needs to have power going to it for the fuel to shut off, and it has Nothing so the saga continues. We still have more of an issue. We are getting closer. At least we have spark, but we have an issue that is telling it not to run still so we have no crank no power to the solenoid.

What else do we? I got that's it right, so it'll run if i put 12 bolts to that, it should run and stay running, we'll put a jumper on it and fire. It up make sure when i put power to that it should make a clicking noise, hear it and it pulls it up. That should be in the on position. Now the cardboard is kind of floating right now.

Let me go jump that uh starter. Let me back you up, you know, jump that starter. It should stay running. I i don't know the last time i did run.

Let me go, try and knock down some throttle choke, i'm not sure where it is. Let's just see what we get here. So the engine seems fine push it off in a second yeah. That's what it is it just shuts.

The fuel off got a little bit of fuel to run that's what it was doing on the last time, all right so we're getting closer. We know that the engine will run. We are still chasing an electrical problem and i do not have i try to do this without a manual to begin with, because the whole idea of making the video is to try to figure out how to troubleshoot stuff. So that's the point i'm going to.

I know it's somewhat convoluted and we're jumping around, but it kind of shows how different systems work on different things uh. I may i have a feeling that something possibly got swapped out, that shouldn't have been swapped out and it's causing an issue. Maybe it's got the wrong ignition switch on it. Maybe some change relays.

I don't know. Fortunately, i do have another tractor that is similar to this or possibly even the same one at my house. I do not have it here. I may go get that bring it over here and we can kind of you know eyeball from one to another and see where we can see the differences between them.

That's where i am right now well, we'll see. I may chase that i mean i'm not sure, so i probe back. Why did not have power on this lead and were the two major plugs go together? All right so with two major plugs go together, did not have power jumping across it. It did not have power, it's actually this purple wire.

I had power on this side and i didn't have power on this side, so i took the whole thing kind of rocked around and pushed the terminals in. Let's go see if she'll crank. I know we got the other part of it, so it'll stay around if it does crank. It'll stay running still no crank, but it's is the wire on, but we uh it should stay running.

If i jump it, let's go verify that little bit of throttle a little bit of choke. Okay or maybe not, let's uh, put a test light on that make sure the power stays on. It would be that one no power again, so it was back yep. We lost our run.

Light sounds purple on this fuse power power should be going down to there. Now, let's get power. Oh you pig. Try that again, let's jump off all right now! All we need is crank.

You need to get it to crank from the key. Well guys, i'm going to take a break for tonight and uh my battery and my flashlight went dead, so i think it's going what's going to make me. Have it call it? I haven't kind of figured out. I i'm down to a couple wires on the relay: power comes in from the ignition switch on that yellow wire tells this relay to fire, and then that one is supposed to walk over to here after some safeties and tell this one the fire.

The problem is, one wire is dropping out, has power all the time this blue wire has power, and then, when you go to the crank position, it loses power and that's coming out of this relay. I don't know why it does that. Yet everything else is. This is not the green is an output, the black is the ground, that's the signal coming in and the orange is power all the time.

That's all the wires that are on the whole circuit, so why the gray kicks out. I do not know why, and the gray uh makes a passage out through the relays and comes back all that works. It's all working, it's just why the power shuts off. When i go to the crank position, i'm not sure that but uh my brain's getting a little steamed, so i'm gon na go, try it tomorrow.

One thing i'm kind of thinking of i'm wondering if the pin out of this ignition switch is not correct, that somebody put a new one on here. It looks spotless for a tractor, that's 26 years old. That looks very clean, so my thought is uh. Possibly somebody tried solving a problem by changing the ignition switch and it is the wrong pin out and it's just sending the wrong signals out from the wrong locations, and it's just i guess i don't even see a number on it.

You should use a little like w4c like like three syllables. I don't see anything on this one whatsoever anyway, we'll pick it back up tomorrow, we'll get it all right. It's the next day, my brain is fresh. Okay, went through some things, put some stuff back together and i do believe i found it.

Nothing happens, push the brake pedal down and lock it kick my ass. Will you i'll show you yeah you wan na know what was wrong. I was kind of probing around, and one thing that showed up was the parking light. There's a parking light on the dash right there and it was lighting up when the brake pedal was not on, and so i'm like phone around me.

It doesn't make any sense. It was inverted of what it should be, so i started looking at the plugs. There's a there's, a micro switch here and there's two down below that. We were looking at the orientation.

Somebody had it wrong. One of the ones from up top on this switch was supposed to go down below one from down below was supposed to go up top, so they were cancelling each other out, they weren't working correctly, and so why the light was also opposite of what it should Be that's what kind of cued me in so that was the last of several problems. Again, it had no spark or anything when you first came in so two other people worked on it before me. At least two other people worked on it before me and of course now i have to go: try to figure out what other people did.

They probably just had one problem to begin with and then end up. They said getting into three or four: i'm gon na go button, her back up and do one last function check, make sure everything works, and then i think we go send this one down the road all right. Let's give it a whirl. Hopefully everything works good.

I would like to tell you that everything went without a hitch, as i was wiring everything back and closing everything back up. It started acting up again, you wan na know what it was this time. I'll show you. This is for the pto turn the pto on and off, and what it has doesn't use either one of these on the bottom, just these three on top, so that has power.

This is uh going out to fire the electric pto going out, and this is the safety coming in. So this has power going from here to here when the button is in when the button is out, it opens that circuit up, so it can't crank and it can't start well. It started screwing up. It was not sending power out on that leg, all the time.

So i got ta use one i put a used one in and now it seems to be taking care of it. You want to cut it open and see what happens. Let's go hit on a bandsaw, real, quick and pop the end off and see. If we can see any burnt contacts or anything screwed up inside there, i might have destroyed it a little bit because i caught it a little bit more.

Let's see we got so there's another block up higher, so this would have been the lead that needed power. It looks like this one would have clicked here's the band saw. I got it. I think that was like that.

I think, as you push the button out it clicks, i don't know what would have made contact with that. Another set of contacts come down and rub it. I don't know, but you know it didn't work, it's not exactly as conclusive as i would have thought it would have been see. Those tabs are kind of got that knob just been.

Let's probably pressed on we're not going to get that out of there. I cut around the lower half just get an idea. We can see what's inside how it works. It's gon na launch springs, i would just say, probably had a dirty set of contacts.

That's looking a little cruddy. I think this is the side that was doing the work you can see how the um ends of the contacts are kind of like that one right there sounds really cuts them some darkness on it. That's it all. I would right do something like that: i'm not sure what that middle piece was right above it, you think, because that one had to make a path yeah.

I think it was right above it like that, and this came down like so when it filled into that cavity. I don't know how far away it was. You think it was probably like that. That's my guess when you click it in it does well.

This had to have power on all the time, so it must have been like that. So that's in the off position. I got it wrong, that's why so it was like that so power, all the time power going out to the electric pto, the middle one, and then the right one was the one that um was for the safety. So when you pulled the button out that little tab went into that open window right, there didn't touch anything and then, when you had it off, it made current go from this side to this side.

But it was just so dirty on that that wasn't repeating itself and the other side is probably just for a different setup, but it's it's not used in this all right. That's that all right guys, i guess that's going to conclude this one. I was planning on having about a 15 20 minute video we're gon na, go, knock it out and find out something some safety somewhere. That was just not doing his thing, not like six things that were a problem, no low exaggeration, we'll call it five that were screwed up so uh.

We would go figure it out and get it squared away without a wiring diagram or a uh uh spare to cheat off of and be able to get her figured out. Well guys, this one kicked my ass a little bit, but that's okay. It's sometimes good to have a challenge and you know smoke a couple of brain cells. There get them working again and do your best troubleshooting with uh.

I try to go without any manuals, wiring diagrams. If i worst case i have to get to that point, i will but i like to try to figure out how stuff works, what is connected in what circuit and what each one does, and it just builds on the next time you go to work on something Like this, you uh further your education, because you've kind of figured out what does what what you need to what needs to see what you know as far as power and switches and all so all that has been added to my brain cells for the next one. I don't have any the missing tins. I think the owner has them uh either that or the shop that took it apart.

He may have to go, see them, but there's pans that are missing here. There's stuff that holds the battery and it's missing. There's a chin in the center here - that's not here, so i buttoned up what i could put tie wrapped a bunch of wires together. I got all the wires back in the looms cleaned everything back up.

Yes, i could put the relay box back in screw. The fuse box - and it was missing screws like i said it's missing - tins and there's nothing holding the battery in and that kind of stuff. So we'll let the owner chase that. But for me for us i think we're done.

I'm glad that uh i was able to get it, i'm not much on giving up, but uh. This one did definitely give give up a little bit of a fight. Alright, guys with that, and thank you all for hanging out with me doing a bit of ranching a little trouble shooting and we'll do it again soon. Sometime till then later.