had a leak on the terramite tractor, so this is a clip of me fixing it,
one mans junk is another mans treasure…
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12 years later from when you posted this video and today it helped me rebuild my T5C front curl cylinder after searching forever for the positions on the hard seals! Thank you! The heated water tip came in handy as well and was very much needed.
Thank you for the video it helped me confirm the proper orientation of the seals on the piston. My suggestion to get the piston seals on easier and undamaged is to heat the hyd oil to about 200 deg F and dip the seals into the oil just before installing them. I used a cotter key hook tool to install them. The hot oil is recommended as the water may possibly cause corrosion and you need to oil the seals during installation in any case.
If you get the blue piston seals from Terramite Replacement Parts DON'T heat them prior to installation. I had my seals break. According to the gentleman I spoke with on the phone this is a known issue. Body temp only.
I got the retaining wire turned out with an OTC gland nut wrench. I had to drill out the gland nut holes to fit the pins. It helps turning the whole piston rod at the same time as the nut is turned and the retaining wire walked right out. The next issue is the gland nut seal sticks into the retaining wire groove in the cylinder barrel as you remove the piston rod, I had to use an engine lift to pull out the piston rod as the other cylinder end is mounted vertical on the boom and use the cross pinned, it is a real fight to get this one out. Thanks for the video.
AQUANET "super hold" hairspray for grips
Several people had questions about the wire that holds the gland nut. Not all Terramite cylinders have this wire but for the ones that do, you should see or feel the end of the wire sticking out of a hole on the side of the cylinder. It is normally flattened down against the cylinder. Pry it up so that you can clamp vise grips onto it. Alternate prying it up and pushing it while turning the gland nut counterclockwise with a pin tool. You will only move it an eighth to a quarter inch at a time. Continue prying and rotating until it is out. When installing, line up the hole in the gland nut with the hole in the cylinder so that the wire goes into the gland nut and will be pulled in when the nut is rotated clockwise. LEAVE A QUARTER INCH OR SO OUTSIDE THE HOLE. I don't know how you would ever remove it if it was pulled totally inside.
I've never taken a hydraulic cylinder apart. Now I'm excited to take my first one apart sometime.
I really need to know how you got that piece of rod out of the channel on the end cap to remove it…I removed a spring clip ring from the face of the cap and can rotate the end cap but doesn't seem to want to come out of the cylinder? Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks!
when it comes to the microwave dont ask for permission , beg for forgiveness
Good tip on heating the rings, boots, and hand grips in hot water. I will be using that for sure.
I am a bit confused about the rod used to lock in the end cap. How do you get that loose to remove in and how do you get I reinstalled again??? I am new at hydraulics.
Thanks
Tony
You've gotten so much better.
That is why i keep an old coffee can of oil and one for water and a good will hot plate in my shop for heating up parts.
Good video. I have fitted new seals to hydraulic cylinders before; I once had to repair a bigger cylinder than the one featured here. Getting the hard plastic/composite seal in the groove can be very tricky. Best thing to do is soak the seal in warm water for 5 minutes which will make it expand. Grease the flange to help it slide on better. Manufacturer's say don't use anything to lever it in place just use fingers but this is impossible unless you want shredded finger nails! Very CAREFULLY use a flat blade screwdriver to gently pry the seal over the lip of the groove (too much force will snap the seal) and nudge part of the seal into the groove with fingers. Now carefully lever the screwdriver round the circumference, pushing more of the seal into place with fingers until enough of the seal is in place so that when you remove the screwdriver it will remain in the groove. The rest of the seal should now slide into place easier using just your fingers. Allow plenty of time for the seal to cool down and shrink back down to normal size before re assembling cylinder. Hope this helps!
Hercules seals in Florida makes every type size. I build a lot of cylinders for cranes excavators.
he didn't show the glide gasket assembly
sniff
why don't you put a microwave in your garage