15 thoughts on “Lets wrench on the troybilt rototiller”
Many rear tine tillers have the tendency to "run away" or "buck" in tough soil conditions. Also, they tend to wander or drift when one half of the tiller bites and pulls the machine off line. Makes for a long day!
I introduce my attachment to the Drag Bar of the rear tine tiller to help in both situations. I call it the "Back Saver Spike". Production is just getting started.
That's a cool old Troy built tiller,what year is it bcause it looks like one of the first ones that they came out with bcause it had the hard rubber tires on it & the other ones has regular rubber tires either with a tube in it or tubeless tires
Nicely fixed roto horse tiller KOHLER 8 . FUEL PUMP GAS LINES & FILTERS. Wold like to fix my mom's which needs all this one did but mom's needs a fuel tank. Here is the model number 12059 Serial 12059 Thanks pattyperformance
I couldn't find any vids on this issue so I decided maybe someone could help me here. My tiller pulls me like we're off on the dragstrip no matter the level I set the blades. I bought it at a pawn shop, the blades are in the back. When it's on its wheels it's nice and slow but the second the blades touch I get whiplash trying to hold it back. Any ideas to fix this issue? I was thinking maybe I could attach a blade to dig into the ground.
I have the same model, also got no spark. So I pulled the ignition coil out where I pulled off the point and condenser? So was hoping to see how to reattach them, two ends. One is wrapped around the condenser stick and the other goes where? Can you tell me.. never worked on that set up. Can you please explain where both ends go in there. maybe my ignition coil works after all. thank you Mustie. Very Nice work. I'm just trying to get spark for now.
Just picked up a slightly newer model with the plastic tank and a 3 hp engine. Had spark already. Added PBP blaster to the cylinder overnight. New plug and it fired up. Found a crack in the plastic fitting between carb and fuel line. Added some Sea Foam to the fuel and adjusted the carb and ran for 30 minutes. Changing oil and gear box now. Will replace the old drive belt and it should run and till like almost new. Thanks Mustie for the guide to these older units from Troy Built.
Thanks for the demo. I have an older troy built Horse and plan on doing the work in the spring and tilling the garden. Looked up the price for a Horse equivalent and it was about $3,000. Prices have certainly change. Thanks again.
Many rear tine tillers have the tendency to "run away" or "buck" in tough soil conditions. Also, they tend to wander or drift when one half of the tiller bites and pulls the machine off line. Makes for a long day!
I introduce my attachment to the Drag Bar of the rear tine tiller to help in both situations. I call it the "Back Saver Spike". Production is just getting started.
Troybilt service manuel
That's a cool old Troy built tiller,what year is it bcause it looks like one of the first ones that they came out with bcause it had the hard rubber tires on it & the other ones has regular rubber tires either with a tube in it or tubeless tires
What a great video, Really appreciated!
Nicely fixed roto horse tiller
KOHLER 8 . FUEL PUMP GAS LINES & FILTERS. Wold like to fix my mom's which needs all this one did but mom's needs a fuel tank. Here is the model number 12059
Serial 12059
Thanks pattyperformance
I couldn't find any vids on this issue so I decided maybe someone could help me here. My tiller pulls me like we're off on the dragstrip no matter the level I set the blades. I bought it at a pawn shop, the blades are in the back. When it's on its wheels it's nice and slow but the second the blades touch I get whiplash trying to hold it back. Any ideas to fix this issue? I was thinking maybe I could attach a blade to dig into the ground.
I have the same model, also got no spark. So I pulled the ignition coil out where I pulled off the point and condenser? So was hoping to see how to reattach them, two ends. One is wrapped around the condenser stick and the other goes where? Can you tell me.. never worked on that set up. Can you please explain where both ends go in there. maybe my ignition coil works after all. thank you Mustie. Very Nice work. I'm just trying to get spark for now.
I just got one of these for free, time to get it running.
I have 2 of these one horse and 1pony
Just picked up a slightly newer model with the plastic tank and a 3 hp engine. Had spark already. Added PBP blaster to the cylinder overnight. New plug and it fired up. Found a crack in the plastic fitting between carb and fuel line. Added some Sea Foam to the fuel and adjusted the carb and ran for 30 minutes. Changing oil and gear box now. Will replace the old drive belt and it should run and till like almost new. Thanks Mustie for the guide to these older units from Troy Built.
Thanks for the demo. I have an older troy built Horse and plan on doing the work in the spring and tilling the garden. Looked up the price for a Horse equivalent and it was about $3,000. Prices have certainly change. Thanks again.
Awesome video. Thanks for posting!
How does the throttle linkage work on this model?
Vintage Mustie1. Makes me nostalgic for your garage at home.
Bloody beauty mate I’m going to adjust the belt tension thanks