moving forward with putting the 1965 vw karman ghia back together on the cheap, this engine was out of a damp basement and sat for 30 years, lets tear it down and see if we can still use it for this project.
one mans junk is another mans treasure…
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23 foot pounds wasn't much. I remember that to this day. Also remember the "super studs" that mechanics would try after the factory ones pulled out.
Always a pleasure revisiting these gems, loved the slo mo footage at the end, very enjoyable love Darren’s laid back approach and those shits and giggles laugh he does 😆👍
Mustie1, one thing – on several of your videos where you are taking a compression test, the dial of the tester is frequently angled where the overhead light is reflecting on the dial, and we can't see diddley. If you can lean the dial back about 30 degrees away from the overhead light & towards the camera, you'd probably be good to go. And, yeah this is Jan 2022, and I have another 60 videos to go (oldest to newest), so you may have already addressed this!
That is not a happy engine.
Draining the oil – lol!
1st video that actually matches my engine except mine is in a little bit better shape. Also the 1st to point out the thermostat I would have been stumped on that for never thank you very much.
I must have built/rebuilt 100's of these
Two questions
Where were u squirting the gasoline without the carb?
Where is the 356 engine currently?
Why didn't you pressure wash it or steam clean it before you started tearing it down?
Darn, cracking that nut was easier than cracking a black walnut!!
Nice job -makes me want to start building VW engines again.
Those slotted screws holding the air guide to the cylinder head – screw driver tip with slide around in the screw slot instead of turn the screw. I'm not sure I remember how I got those screws out. Maybe I used the impact driver tip on a 1/2 inch driver breaker bar. Maybe I used a vice grip directly on the screw. When assembling: new screws with hex heads; anti-seize compound on the threads.
I used to use the same method to take the nuts off of the cylinder head studs. Then when I put on the new nut, not only did I clean the threads up with a thread chaser or thread die, but I'd also put a thin layer of anti-seize compound on the threads, so that getting the nut off next time would be easy. Permatex anti-seize lubricant.
why do you not use a nut splitter?