part 2 of this 50 year old single axle gravely tractor was rescued from a barn after sitting 20 some odd years. on pt 1 we got it to run, but that was the easy part, getting it to cut is even more of a challenge, lets see how we make out.

Hey guys and how's it going hey we're going to continue on this uh roughly 50 year old, gravely 526 single axle tractor that we dragged a friend of mine and i dragged out of a barn about a month ago. Anyway, on the last video we were able to go through and get the ignition system working, get rid of the uh tore down the ignition switch itself internally fixed that uh, it is the electric start wave was able to get that to crank because it doesn't have A pull start went through, the fuel system went through the carburetor and it seems like it's running fairly decent where we left off, though the petcock was leaking out between the red and the black, so i did grab another one of that. So without further ado, let's get back into it and see if we can resurrect the rest of it and make it do some chopping with that blade. That's on the front: let's see, if that one fares a little bit better squish our line back open and turn to the end just sit a minute.

It feels really loose on the the turning part of it. Here i was kind of questioning whether it's going to hold up for us we'll find out in a second i'm going to go through the air cleaner back on it, because you can get that part of it buttoned up. So we're not sucking up any crap and i guess we could start actually we'll fire it up. We'll run it a little bit, get a little bit heating it and strain that oil out of there that's been in there.

For who knows how long remember what i told you didn't feel very good guess where it's made a little wiggling around. I think i you know it slowed it down. Let's put it that way and it's still leaking all right. Uh, let's go give her the choke on nice huh.

Let that run for about two or three minutes get a couple of revs in here mark's jumping up there, jumper pack, paul off, you could see sparks jumping up here that jumper patches anything to do with that. Let's rev it up again, we'll see, i don't know if you saw it did it once i was doing it earlier too. I don't see any protection jacket-wise on those. I don't know if it's just jumping right across or if they're very close, we'll deal with that.

In a little bit all right, let's get the oil peeing out of it and then we'll take a quick look at that and see what's going on. Yes, not terrible, definitely dirty all right, so we just got three terminals on it. One there there there white black and we want to call the other one green and let's get them off there yeah. It's weird that uh, i don't know if it was arc into the body.

So, generally, how that's gon na work is usually the two bottom ones are ac coming in and then it's dc going out. It's not a definite but pretty much how they're set up. I see the jacket's missing on this one. It's melted away.

Let's uh! I don't know if that's potting, that's in there or what that is. It's like a putty, oh somebody glued something in there where's that factory. I don't know what we can do, not sure where it was working too. I don't know if it was working from there to the body or was it going from terminal terminal.
Let's i'm gon na go clean these up with a wire wheel, a little bit we'll get these back on clean. These too. Maybe we'll stand these terminals up a little bit so that they're not so close to this body, let's just steam them up, maybe a little close to that battery box on the top, but that one's dc and generally dc does not jump across on it easily. All right, so what do we have too bad? I don't have any of those, and that does not fit worth a damn.

That might be what the problem is too. They could have high resistance going across, so let's crush them down a little bit. If not we're just going to go, cut them off and put some new ones on there, so that tab is kind of you were waiting for me to get myself in a finger. Weren't you, let's get it's a little bit better fitting, probably take some like a rtv or something and kind of if it's fixed, we'll just maybe we'll pop that, with some kind of material to keep it from being exposed.

All right, our oil should be done dripping. Let's see we got for the oil situation yeah a little bit a little bit of moisture. They got in it. That's that fuzzy sitting on top i'm gon na go, throw the plug in and fill that back up got ta fill it back up with oil.

I think we're gon na throw a jack under it and we'll look into the drive train, we'll see if we'll shift the levers on the transmission and all that and see. If we can get see if the wheels lock and unlock i don't know what it has, is it have forward in reverse or just forward or clear about you go find out. So it looks like it has a high and low range over here. This is the pto which will spin the whatever the attachment is in the front, and i don't know what we got for.

I'm not quite sure what that is. Maybe we'll hop up there see if there's any writing on either one. You would think it would have reverse right. What's that looks like it's missing a handle whatever it is like? How would you operate that see where it goes both of them go into the gear box? So i don't know what that one is yeah.

It's missing a handle, that's what it is. Let's go hop up there we'll go, read this stuff yeah, so this is high in low range and throttle. Of course, so we got on the other side does not say i actually did this yeah. You got neutral.

Photon, reverse, okay, so that's what this one is fold in reverse and the other one is high and low range. But didn't it say, what's the i mean shift, what what's the difference between this one then? And this one up here this is high in low range. I guess we're gon na go find out right when we go fire it up. Let's go get your back in the stand, we'll start spinning the wheels and see what engages anything to make it go, so it should be neutral, no yeah! It's in neutral.

You got a lot of drag. Let's go get that locked down. Did it do anything for us nope still in neutral, let's go something's gon na be the drive we got. Ta have a lever that you you hit to make it go right.
Kinda like a snowblower when it when it's moving, but you think would be mo. Let's go. Try that see. If that puts it in gear, i got ta grab the wheels on both sides because it's an open differential.

It will always do that. But let's go see all right, so that's it so that lever engages it. That's what that one does. I still don't know what shift range does i guess we'll be fired up we'll find out, and then i don't know what this one does.

If it's high and low so that is locked in the forward position, let's go that one. It doesn't seem like it locks, so this one will lock going forward, but on this end it doesn't, it doesn't seem like it'll stay there. Let's go throw a bar in that get a little bit more oomph into it. Yes, if we pull all the way forward on that, will it lock yeah okay, so it's got two locking positions for whatever that does.

Yes, i would think one is engagement to make it go and the other one is engagement, probably for the pto that is not still, not sure which one's which and as far as up here what happens i still haven't figured that out. You can go jack up. The other side we'll go see if we can spin that blade underneath there and see uh if that gearbox is free or what kind of love it needs and how to shape that blades in safety first get a light and take a peek under there. Well, it's definitely thicker than your regular lawnmower blade.

It does not budge. Let me go make sure. I'm gon na flip those two levers back make sure one of those are not in gear. I don't think it's been locked in because it does not turn at all.

I think we're just seized up, probably just from sitting so long would be my guess but uh i would think there's bearings in here, but it could be the gearbox up above it also. So we got a, i don't know. Can we flip this thing completely around on the machine? I don't think so. It looks like it rocks back and forth, you know and it does swivel.

Now we won't clear over there. The plug wire is off. I know someone's going to say something: let's just try giving a little bit of manpower behind the blade. Let's see if we can get it a lot of times, you get a little bit of movement out of it, and a little bit of movement adds up to a lot of movement.

Well, that is a bearing. That is gone. That's a bearing that kind of drove over itself, but we got to spin that's the crunch of little needles. All right, you never know g.

That could have been why it was put away. It definitely has a cooked bearing i like to see if we can just kind of get it free enough, so that when we engage it, we can see how the rest of it is. That should do it. It's gon na be noisy, as hell, though, seems like it's this bearing right here just by listening to the sound of it all right.
What do you say? We fire it up. We see what blows apart. I can see if i'm moving, that pto number two. We have to engage in disengage now.

This is kind of where i figured we were going to run into things and the engine's pretty much cut and dry as far as what repairs need to be done, but we are not shifting. That's the lever right there into that gearbox all right, i'm gon na go fire it up anyway, and maybe we'll just cry screwing with some of the controls we'll see what does and does not turn whether we get the wheels to turn and that kind of thing. Let's go for brooke both of them; it makes something wine, so the lever on the right is high and low range that works and then photo reverse with that lever. Now i would think maybe pto is going to be that and then this is going to turn the pto on.

So it sounds like we engaged something in the gearbox, but we have nothing spinning underneath the price connecting. That is that, whatever this lever is right here, it's not engaging and disengaging this shaft all right get her undone all right. So we need to figure out what is happening with this part of the gearbox selector, not wanting to select what, if we should pop this off the nose of it. That's where the plow attaches to it and we'll kind of get this out of the way and see if we can just figure that that might probably be our best plan cycle.

We engaged it too instead of pushing some oil out right there. So i don't know if that drive is spinning here, and this is totally gone again. We never know what it was put away for right. It could have been that could have been the death of it, the the blade broke up.

I don't know what this does. Neither i figure i'd, give us a good look inside. Oh yeah, you can see the gears in there we're going in. Well, i see two gears touching each other.

You know i do see some oil in the bottom of it. That's a good sign, a little rust, whether we're sitting in the open air. All right, i think we'll continue with what we're gon na do. Let's go get this off the front of it and see what we have so she's going.

So it's got a clutch pack on here. What, if that was what was slipping when we went to go put it in gear, when we were hearing that noise yeah, because right now, the blades hitting the end of the lift. Let's go concentrate on the tractor first and see we get coming out. So is that the engagement for the pto right there then huh it's those teeth and that paw moving forward? Let's get a light in there and we'll move that lever.

So you can get that to move back and forth. That's if that works. Then we know it's on that. I really wouldn't think euro would be dripping out of that, because when you go change implements, this is where you change it.

So, each time you change from one thing to another: it's gon na piss, the fluid out. So that's probably a seal. That's gone further back all right. Let's try make sure we can grab it right here.
Okay, so it looks like that. Fork goes right down to move this forward and back and it's not doing anything bound up. Let's go get a hammer right here and give her a couple of love taps. Let's probably make the camera jump because you're sitting on the bench, but there it goes.

You need a little persuasion, so yeah, that's how it works that just engages that paw, you don't get moved for 20 years of your life. Your bones get stiff. I'm gon na throw some lube up inside here, so you can get that to a little bit more. Try to get it once all the way back right, throw a little bit behind it, how it works.

It's cool that it's got a clutch in there too, because that way, if you hit something - and it stops the blade, it has a forgiveness factor, a lot of rototillers are like that. So they're rotating on the back of a tractor it'll have that same setup. In there all right, well, i'm happy with the fact that that is moving. I don't know about the oil pissing out of it.

I think we'll, let that do its thing and that could have been transferring from one to the other. For, like, i said the last 20 some odd year, so we'll let that do its thing drain out, because i don't think the clutch is supposed to get wet. I think that is supposed to be a dry setup, or else it's just going to slip all the time we'll let that figure it out. Let's uh get into this see what happened.

I think the best plan of attack right now is we'll get the table down. We'll get the machine back off of there and it'll give us a little bit of operating area for uh, taking the i guess, we're gon na call them mower and we'll flip it over see. If we can figure out what's going on with the bearings inside there, i think that part's already solved. We know if we can get that to go turn, then you know it should drive us up and the wheel's already turning on the tractor, so it's covering all the bases.

So i want to go lean that forward some as you can see, it literally filled that cup up in 10 seconds, so i'm kind of second guessing whether there is a seal between that or not. I mean just that's just the way it is but, like i said, if you're gon na go change, implements, doesn't that seem kind of weird i mean that's peeing out of there quick, that's not like it's uh going around a seal. That's got a slight leak. That is nothing between the gearbox and the transmission, unless possibly it's over full and it really shouldn't be that high up - and maybe it's meant to have some oil up in the front.

Looking for where the fill would be to fill in the uh. You see it. There nope it's an axle. Now here's a stick right here: let's uh, i'm going to put it back level again, we'll go check the the fluid level on the stick.

Yeah. We got a good quart out of there already at least that's only i could see. Is it being over full yeah, so we took that much out of there and it's already the difference between there and there that's your whole window yeah. I will only bet that it was over full, maybe and then, when it's level it doesn't leak out.
Am i just making up or what do you think all right? Let's continue we'll get this thing off the bench and uh, we'll look more into that. Mower mark wouldn't bleed with my finger. That's pretty even we know that he's definitely grinding itself away, though. Let's see if we can get that sucker off of there, it looks like a stack of washers about 30 deep.

Sometimes you got to get the big guns. One inch drive see how she does try doing that with your milwaukee electric. It did look to me like there was a stack of shims or washers. Does that not look like what it is? That is what it is.

I'm gon na go. Take a wire wheel, clean some of the surface up to get these to slide off. That should be our bearing right there, what it takes to get it out of there. I flip the back over.

Take that cap off look at the gunk that came out right there. I think what we need to do is we'll take it we'll, take this right off, get it out of our way, and i think we can go get that allen. I mean the um karaki out of there see if we can spin that nut out. I think the whole shaft will drop out the bottom that should have access to.

The two bearings is my guess, plus you need to kind of get in there and clean that crap up. If you want any longevity out of it, so we give ourselves a couple of witness marks on there in case you get down in here later. Take that apart, we know where they were already crack them loose with a wrench. Let's listen how this sounds now.

The bearings are quiet, that's good on that now we can get in there a little bit. That seems like a very thin oil. That is very thin. I don't know what that is almost like a gasoline.

I wonder if it was bound up, and somebody took that cap off a long time ago and put whatever this is in there, because that's like i mean it's, not even motor oil thick, you know, and it's not like it's water and so much for putting it In a cup right - and it's not like it came from the front that the where we had the oil coming out before that was giro. I was right up here what you can tell by the thickness of it, but that i have no idea what i mean. That's like like the thickness of gasoline, but it's not gas, actually might be. It might be gas, so there's always a reason for something being put away and stopped being used again.

Sometimes it's just the person who's using it got old and whatever happened to that person. They just stopped using it or move or whatever the issue. I have a feeling. This was put away for uh having an issue here, and somebody either put kerosene or gas inside there to try to get that bearing to free up that was the original problem.
They probably went to go, engage. It was probably uh smoking that clutch real hard or stalling the engine out all right. So i'm gon na do my best to get the cotter key out of that through that little cubby hole and then we'll get an impact and get the nut off of there see if we can get this assembly apart and get to where that bearing is well. I'm definitely making an attempt to try to knock out the cotter key, but i think it's kind of become one with the shield, so we might have to just try to and i might add, don't buy those lights.

They suck any vibration at all. They seem like they shut themselves off and i bought four of them for 119 bucks, a bargain. I tell you yeah, i don't think uh yeah. It feels like it's moving a little.

Sometimes you can get it. You know the the key is two pieces in there. You can get like one to drive out and the other one just kind of falls out. I'm gon na keep tapping away.

You could drill it too, but i think probably the best bet. If we can just get down there with an impact socket. We just run the nut right off of it and when you're done kind of clean out the center of it yeah that wasn't going to come out, i didn't think it give it much hope. 15.

16.. You can see. Why aren't you using an impact socket because i do not have a 15 16th impact and we're off all right? Now we got ta, see what else i don't know if we can drive down with a brass rod and the whole thing will come out. There's the gear yeah, let's see if we can get i'm gon na, go uh, get some wood to get the that.

Actually, i think we got some clearance in it. Yes, get a brass rod. We'll try driving down put the nut on upside down, we'll try driving it down with a brass rod, so you can get the shaft out of it yeah. It looks to be a tapered bearing like a car.

I don't know, maybe not i'll, find out in a second yeah. Let's give her a couple of taps, see if she'll go much as far right now top bearing is broken, half the key, just cracked on it right there yeah it's like just regular wheelbarrow as long as you got a number on them. You should be good so that would have to be set with a preload. Like you do wheel bearings, you can't just run that nut down, so it has to you have to run that down.

So it's got probably just a little bit of playing and then put the key in it and see if that's the rest of the way up, she's out of the hole and what a mess under there yeah. There's your there's your noise yeah somebody tried freeing that up with something all right, so i'd say: take a wire wheel. We're gon na go clean all the crap off of here and see if we can get this bearing off of the shaft and we'll know tomorrow. What we need to get is that a seal, it's just a seal good, we'll be able to press it off then and see if any of this stuff is available, local and then we should be able to put this back together and have this operate, got a Hydraulic press i could get set in, but let's see, if it'll just go, it might just tap right out yeah she's going.
Let's see if you can get a number on that after the wild wheel, it looks like timkin 15113. Here's the part number. Now we got to get the races out. The race is the other part of the bearing that it rides on, because that's all chewed up too so we're gon na have to replace both of those.

So it should just be like a wheel bearing on a car. So you can see the taper is here and what it does is it comes down and there's a lip under here. That's holding it so from the other side, if you drive up with a punch, you'll be able to get that race right out and then the one that's down below. I want to get in this direction because it's the opposite.

It tapers facing the other way. So i'm going to be able to drive that one from the top. Hopefully i can get in there with a long enough apparatus. We may have to improvise, maybe a long screwdriver or something and that's to get that wreath tapped out of there.

I guess we'll start with the creditor one. First like you can feel it you'll come up. You feel the catch on the lip. Sometimes there's a little cutaway too they'll put like a little notches.

Give you a little bit better area to hit it. You kind of want to go back from side to side. I don't feel like it's moving, though just waiting for me to hit my thumb with the hammer. Aren't you yeah, i am too close there, so i can keep working on that.

I'm gon na bring you back almost there. It's a got a cavity, that's probably about an inch and a half deep, so i had to drive it down that whole thing. I think it wasn't any longer that was that a punch there we go. That's the other half of the battle and we'll see the surface of that which is supposed to be like a almost like.

A mirror is far from uh being a mirror. All right, i'm gon na go with the race out of the top one, and then i think we're gon na have to call i'm gon na have to go call it quits. Until i get some new parts to put in it tomorrow, did you get that other one out of there? This one doesn't have as much travel to go plus i could actually hold the punch done. They're both cooked yeah, that's a probably the same, bearing as like a 1970 impala.

Well, i went to the auto parts store and unfortunately, although they have part numbers on them, they were not able to get any of them, but home. In my stash i have a little bit it'd be funny if they're, the right ones right there. I have a little bit of everything as far as bearings are concerned. I don't know if we're gon na find a tapered bearing set up, but i think i have regular roller bearings of different shapes and sizes somewhere in there.

So i'm gon na go do a search and see how close i can come to trying to find bearings that will fit and worst case we will make like a brass collar up if they're, too small or whatever the is we'll we'll fudge it in with a Lathe and make what we need to make in it some fashion we're going to go, come up with something to make that work. I don't give up easy so after hunting. This is what i came up with so for the small bearing i was able to find one with the right, od and too big of an id. And then i found a couple of pieces of brass that we can kind of whittle down on the lathe and try to make that id fit that id and then for the large one, which is this one.
I found it's a different style of bearing, i don't think it's going to affect us much we're going to mix and match and try to make it work again. The same thing, the outside od was okay, but the id is too large, and then i found some brass that we could probably whittle down and make a bushing to take up the space. That's my plan right now. It's what i got to work with so so, let's go see how that works out, i'm getting ready to start making some bushings.

I should sting giggles. I threw the spindle in there we'll spin it up a bit of a ben tour. It's gon na mark, where that is, i'm gon na try bringing that over to the press and maybe between here i'll put the nut on the other side. We know this is the furthest bent away see if i can get a little bit of that bend out the blade.

Actually, i think sit is sitting right here, but we do have that adjustment on it that we were showing so up here. It's probably not affecting it, but if it were to get lowered down it's going to wobble around like a lot. So like a lot, so i'm going to try and get some of that kicked out of there and uh. If not at least, we tried, let's see what we get, i don't know if it's going to move at all, actually there's a crack on us or rack to the side.

Like that real quick, i think i can go hop it back in the lathe to just see. If that did anything. If not i got to come up with a better, probably pushing in the center would help, let's eyeball it. I think i can still actually see the hump right in it.

Let's uh try one more time, just maybe pushing on the center a little bit. If not, i got to come up with a better there. It goes. I just saw a bend on that.

One looks like a bent back: let's go see if that did anything rather not overshoot it. You know. Yes, you've made an improvement, trying to look for where the actual bend is. It does looks like it's it's raining, because i see this moving up and down a little bit too, i'm going to re-center that one more time make sure i'm just not kitty whompus on the jaws gave it just a little bit more.

I think we're going to live with that it's out a little bit, but definitely much better than what it was see. If it's still in the same place, it was lining up to the key before yeah pretty much it can go. I hear more that way. I might try all right last time, i'm screwing with it.

That's pretty good again. The blade sits right here so looks pretty steady to me. So i got the id of that one knocked down. Could i want a little bit more snug, but if i make it so that the outside is snug on the bearing brass has a tendency to kind of squish a little bit, i think we're there one way or another all right, i'm going to flip it around.
I got to go cut the outside and see if i can sneak up on the diameter of the bearing in there. Well, it's pretty paper thin wall, there's not much of a shim that needs to be made. Uh we're slightly snug on the audio kind of prefer. It the other way we still have to cut off that excess when we're done, but let's try using that shoulder to press it together again, if i totally screwed this up, i got another one i can.

I can make another one again, but let's see salvage this one nope nope, nope, okay, get out of there, i might have killed it, probably try it with no jaws a little bit more direct push on it. So you can get that one to square itself out there we go now. My hoping is once i ran that in that that id got a little bit more snug, which i think is what's going to happen, we're going to find out right now, yeah yep so close that id up. So i got to go clean that up clean this surface up.

I think we got a good match for those two, i mean i got to cut that off of it there yet, but that should be what we need worst case. I could probably just chuck it back up and leave and open the inside just a little bit, i'm going to polish stuff up first before i do that one. I don't want to tap it together yet because we got to still assemble it up inside there. So i want to make it a permanent fit yet, actually i flipped it over, i think that's pretty good contact, so i think we just cut that right off of there we'll be down there with a fairly snug fit.

I think this edge just got a little screwed up and when i cock-eyed it getting it in, and i pretty much did the same on the second one, let's try pressing this one in okay. It will flush with that, sir. So i come back with the band saw like i did on the other side, just cut this right off of there and then that after a little bit of cleaning should fit right on up on that. But you will look at that.

We had a plan. I think it's gon na work. Well, that should be our game plan. I got a new seal that so this is gon na get driven into the hub.

Then i'm gon na drive the axle in i'm gon na call an axle, spindle and then from the top side. This race needs to get tapped back in, like we did when we removed it, and then this bearing can go back over the top and then the gear goes on. With the nut, that's adjustable and with the same thing, i think we're still going to just uh adjust that preload. So there's a little bit of play in that bearing again make some matching of them we're working with what we got, but i think that'll actually probably hold out quite well.

That is a sealed bearing that's on the bottom of it, but i did pack everything with grease plus there's gon na be a gear oil from the top probably trying to run down there. The seal is in it, let's see if we can so that one's run home got ta shift over to the top and let's get the top bearing put in there and hopefully, when those two gears meet that we don't have any issue with the alignment on that. I don't there's any height change find out. I should put a little bit of grease on the and that race in there i got the bearing goo button.
Like i said, it's going to be sitting with a bunch of a gear oil up on top of here and they'll probably fill that cavity in once it runs through the bearing let's see if you can get that went on there and in there too big. My rod's too big, luckily that inside bushing is fairly snug that should spin pretty free it does so now we got what we got. We got the gear that goes over. Actually it goes this way.

Doesn't it yeah because the big gear is here so this one goes down now and it's keyed and it had shims, that's what those shims were for then, so we might have to uh adjust the i'm gon na have to adjust the height kind of like you. Do on a rear end on a car, i don't think it's as picky, but i'm gon na go drop that in there i'm gon na go just we'll. Take that gear case, we'll put it in there we'll look from the top, we'll just see what kind of backlash we get real, quick before we suck that down, but i think that's pretty much what we need. I just shoved two bolts in it, but it snugged it all the way up and i think we're be just fine again, there's no nut.

Yet, on top of that other one, i think we're right in the window, like you feel just a hair, you hear it too just a hair play. I think so i think we'll be good with that leave. Well enough alone, pretty much everything was put back in the same place anyway. The only thing i screwed up on, i forgot to punch the uh broken roll pin out of the uh roll pin, cotter p cutter pan that is uh in the shaft.

I'm gon na. Try tapping it out from here. I might have to tap the shaft back out of it and work it out of ice, but i'll get it so hopefully i don't take it apart anymore. I think we're good and i added a washer to the top of it, because it was a little bit of play between the nut.

The nut was running all the way down and bottoming it out before it was putting preload on everything below it and the bearing. So i gave it that just a little bit of shim and there is a little bit of play in the gears - i think that'll be just fine. So, let's go flip it over put the blade back on it and then flip it back and put some fluid in here. I actually think we put it back on the machine i sharpen that blade, throw it on there.

The uh. I do think that's what it is, though you take the washers and you can move them around stack more or less where, where you want the blade and it changes your height, i'm going to split it for about the middle for right now so i'll leave. I guess, if you're looking at like these shoes, the difference between there, it's probably about three and a half four inches, and this isn't something that you do a fine cut on your lawn. You know it's more of a like a dr field and brush mower, so i'm gon na go tighten that down.
Let me go see how we are for repeatability the blade's, not tight. It feels pretty good, though we're hitting even on both sides. The beefiness the blade's got to be about a quarter inch thick. It's like a big leaf spring.

I'm gon na go with gear oil. You may we'll we'll cover that bottom, at least that bottom one and it's probably gon na sink down a little bit. Let's go with right there, i'm not going to fill it all the way up enough saturate that bottom, then i would think that it's going to run around the bearing run through that bearing kind of fill up that little bit of space. That's in the cavity between the bottom seal and that bottom bearing and should maintain everything so noisy, she is seems pretty good.

It's straight cut gear, so it's not gon na, be perfectly silent, just the nature of them, but definitely better than it was right. Two new bearings so they're, not the noisy part. Let's throw the cap back on. It's got a hole right in the center of it, and that is for venting.

I'm gon na throw some grease on it and still be able to push the grease out. Pressure gets and what happens is like say like this generates: heat has to have some place for it to escape, but i think i kind of want a little bit of something to keep a mother eight nature out a little bit better than that. You know it's not in the rain, it's probably what got it in the first place. Slowly, water just went in there and grease is soft enough.

It does build any kind of pressure. It'll just push the grease right out and you know hopefully kind of draw it. Both ways but we'll be able to keep an eye on it, you'll see if a hot summer day, if i'm using it, pushes all the grease up out of it. It's uh getting real hot and it sucks it in that's the other way.

At least it's something right well, last quick, look over looks like it's got some hardware, that's flapping around here all the bolts are kind of loose for this. I think it's the rear guard yeah be the rear guard, so i'm gon na go either change that hardware out or try tightening it up and and making a little bit more stout, probably beat it with a hammer, some of the dents out of it. Let me put it back on so i'm getting ready to marry both of them back together. I'm just trying to look like.

We saw the fluid coming out of there and i would think if it was sealed off like if there was a seal on the end of this shaft right behind here, so fluid couldn't come through. I wouldn't think you would have all these passageways. I think it's actually intentional that fluid kind of comes in here. I don't know about again.
My only kind of weird question is like so when you change implements, does it just piss have the chance to piss some fluid out like when you put the plow on it, and it seems like it's something that you would do fairly often too right. You're gon na at least twice a year say if you're using it for uh, you know brush mower, then you want to go put a plow on it. It's not like something that is rarely done. You would think it would be more.

I don't know, maybe user friendly, the bolts, don't bother me, it's just the fact that you would have fluid pissing out of it. Then again it was what i'm going to say 50 years ago. Maybe thoughts were a little different anyway, i'm gon na go and beat on my light and put this thing back together and i think we just see what happens. I was debating put a seal here.

I started cleaning with a wire wheel, but it looks like there's some kind of like asbestos gasket on here, so i'm gon na leave well enough alone and we'll see if anything pisses out of it. When it's tightened up, i thought we were getting a little bit leaking earlier come see. This is not too bad dealt some snow blowers on tractors, they're, fun, officially the most expensive part of the tractor, but it's not staying in there, because that's for another car that i have we're gon na use it. For now i didn't replenish the gear oil in the transmission.

There's some in there i'll deal with that in a minute. Let's go just fire it up and do a function check on that deck and everything else connected to it. A little bit of throttle choke's still not hooked up a little bit more, so that should be blades, not turning. I think i sure don't want to stick my fingers under there and find out that should be just the gearbox in yeah she's.

Spinning scared that crap out of me, i'm working the wrong one. Let's fold in reverse not sure does that even have anything to do with gear shift, high and low range high and low and forward and reverse maybe does do you think the thing in the front has two speeds. I don't know, let's kind of listen to it when we uh we'll engage it see if we could tell let's knock the idle way down. I really needs to stop doing that.

Scaring the crap as the screwdriver falling out sounds like it picks up speed. Doesn't it yeah? So that's what it is like it. You dizzy, okay, so this is a two speed for the blade. This is a two speed for the transmission and then this is forward in reverse throttle and pto should stop.

When i pull that out yeah, it's just free wheels, there's no brake on it like a modern mower. So that's what it is. I guess. Maybe if you're in the heavy brush, you can knock it down, plus, maybe whatever you're running like it's got a snowblower or a rototiller, maybe you're meant to run them in a different gear.

You see it putting out a little bit of grease from that center. I'm gon na throw some gear oil back in that trans, see where we are i'll wipe that down, and i think it might have been overfilled before, because it's just right now we're only about a half inch away from the mark where it needs to be, and I took a lot of this is how much we drained out yeah, that's two thirds of a quarter or so so i'll throw some in there we'll put it back up to the market, we'll run it a little bit we'll see if it it leaks. Out of the any of the uh appendages, and if not, i think, we're good to go. Put the air cleaner back on hook, the choke up make sure that choke cable works, that's probably stiff and frozen and kind of temporary tie down for that battery.
I think we shove her in some bushes and see what she does, so it should be pretty well buttoned up other than a tie down for the battery air cleaners back chokes back on filled. The gear box ran around it with a grease gun, whether it was the grease fitting. I think there's only two on there, one for the intermediate there yeah, i think, somewhere on the on the trans somewhere anyway, uh, let's fire it up, but one thing i would still want to check is what the charging system is doing. Uh, the battery by itself should be 12, 7, 12 9, with it not running, and then, when we fire it up, we should be uh mid 13s to mid 14s.

Let's go get a meter and see we got, they call them 12 volt batteries, but they're, actually like 2.1 per chamber. So it's backwards, but 12 resting voltage is 12.81. Let's go fire. It up see what we get we're, not charging.

So there we go just had to rev it up a little 13-2 that'll keep climbing as the battery gets recharged. Also good as we're running it too. We'll just keep an eye out down here, see if any more sparks kind of going on. I think that was terminals were just bent too close to the body and it was jumping across, but we'll see.

One last thing i think we need is: we got ta, get a lever like this for over here, instead of a screwdriver to make this one turn on and off. Let's go check the stash, i think, there's something over by the lathe and a drill press somewhere buried in my mind, is a tray with like three handles with a black rod on the back of each one. Kinda, like a tray like this, then again it could be just old age. None of that is true.

Huh who's, your daddy. I think it goes like the arms off of a drill press, hopefully we'll grab two of those, maybe we'll replace the one. On the other side too, but we'll go see what thread they are they're, probably metric. So i know about you, but that's looking like a decent match, see if it threads in oh, come on now: okay, i'm gon na change, the one on the other end too.

As long as it clears the handle, that'll be fine, i'm going to change both of them, i'm going to run them in and we'll clean her up a little bit. What a little bit of redneck in there. We got it out back a bunch of vines growing up the back of the side of the building. I think we'll try it on these it may they may be a little too tall and gummy for it.
But you don't know what you try right. Uh, i'm gon na leave it in low for the mower deck and low for the drive, we'll see how that works, and if we can tweak it from there we'll see but we'll approach it we'll dive into this alone. He does it by itself uh. I think that's what it should it's taking down like one saplings.

I think i hit a stump right. There was really kind of what i was grinding on getting a little overzealous getting about three inches across but yeah. It does really good the clutch never locked up. I jammed, you know, stuffed it in there and it never stalled the clutch out.

So i'm not worried about the oil being on it like. I was thinking, okay, so that worked out pretty good uh, i'm happy with it. I actually feel almost dare i say i got a dr field and brush mower, which is a modern one. Like you know, in the 2000s i actually kind of like this better.

It has got a little bit better balance to it. I like the forward and reverse on the lever. You don't have to lock it in the only thing i wish it had some kind of neutral that can hold it in place because it did run away on me. Probably when i was running the handle vibrated forward.

A little bit, but that's supposed to be kind of neutral, you lock it and forward and for reverse you just pull on as soon as you let go. It kind of went out of reverse so that seemed fine. High low range low was what i was kind of cutting with, and then i switched it over to height like you're transporting it. You got it at full throttle.

You got to kind of trot behind it, so it's got a decent pace to it. Mower deck. I ended up putting it in high speed, didn't seem to make much of a difference, probably made a better cut uh. Maybe if you're on really heavy stuff, you would put it low, but it never even bogged.

I haven't even tried to slow down at all, looks like it's just pushing a little bit of grease out. I did grease that center section right there, so, where that leaf is stuck, it pushed a little grease up. Everything else looks pretty dry. I don't see any issues with anything making any puddles.

You should probably look underneath it right dead center is where we would have an issue nope good. It's got a pretty good bounce to it. When the uh the deck is on there. Now it does have a plow again, i'm probably never going to use it.

I don't know how well that would work walking behind it, but it does have and again that bolts on to that same location in that in that center there, where all the gear oil is. So you may want to clean that probably use that plow on something else and make it for a tractor or something because i i would think that this would fight you, because it's not it's an open differential. So if you have a blade on an angle you're going to be trying to strong arm it all the time unless there's a way to lock lock the rears like some snow blowers, you can lock the the axle together. So it pushes pulls straight.
But then you can't make a turn and i don't see anything i don't remember seeing anything anyway so for what is it a six or eight horsepower? It definitely has enough snot to go. Do what it needs to do. It'll pull you down the driveway on your shoes, it's a very unique! It's! The oddest tractor i've ever seen. If we're calling something a tractor, but it's pretty cool, i i do like it other than the fact that it needs to get a a uh cosmetic makeover.

I think all the mechanicals are knocked out and i think we got it pretty good all right guys with that, i'm going to go sign off. I want to thank you all for hanging out with me being an old rusty junk back to life. I quite enjoy it and uh one or two. You guys like hanging out with me too so uh until further nails, we'll do another one, but for now this one's done see ya.

Bye. Did you do this yeah? Okay, you see the brick stay away from. That is the beast. Oh yeah.

I think i might have to go, get a light. Huh that's been there a little while it's cool machine, though it's got dualies on it nice we got a plow blade for it too. Yeah yep awesome, eight horse caller it'll cut down some shrubs too. It's almost like a dr fuel and brush mower funky tractor.


By Mustie

14 thoughts on “TRASH PICKED, Free Barn Find Gravely Tractor. pt 2 of 2”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars MetalJam says:

    I had a job driving one of these in the 60s. If you went down a slope, you feathered reverse on as a brake. The Sulky was like an amusement ride, it rotated super fast and swung very wide, if you were turning into something, you would go right through it!

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jay Herde says:

    If I remember right, the Hi-Low RANGE only affects the wheel speed. I think there are three transmissions available … Hi, Low and 'Convertible' (which changes between Hi and Low. There are also, at least, two different blades thicknesses. The thinner blade leaves a nicer cut on grass. And I don't remember seeing oil when changing the attachments. The engine oil drain plug is the bottom bolt on one or the other axle housings. … Great work on a real good find!!

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jay Herde says:

    I see the 'convertible' (4-speed) mentioned in the comments … Didn't look far enough to see about the fwd/rev lever – some of them don't 'latch' in reverse … that's a good thing … And, I gotta admit, the tiller attachment used in reverse leaves a very nice/finished result.

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Caerus Dharken says:

    I kinda believe the point you split off the attachment isn't the supposed place. I think that bolted on part with the clutch stays in place and the pipe like section behind it has some sort of driveshaft coupling inside it and it gets parted by removing that crossbolt below it. Kinda like the PTO on a tractor.

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Ed P says:

    8 hp, put the blade on it, take off the outer set of wheels and you will be amazed at the snow that little tractor will push. dual wheels were for stability on hillsides. an old gravely mechanic. they had a multitude of attachments.

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Dwaine V says:

    Hey Mustie1, you don't want gear oil in the transmission. Not yellow metal safe. Gravely spec'ed SAE30. Previous owner got that wrong. 90w in the 106 drive attachment gearbox is correct.

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars John Holman says:

    the fill for the tranny is a rubber plug under the back of the battery box. I'll look for my dad's manual, but I think it also takes 90w gear oil. Nice job of bringing it back to life.

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Lust4FunGirls says:

    I guess I should have watched the whole video before saying anything but I think you got the idea of just how impressive these machines are,, they make many many attachments for your machine including a BackHoe !! What you have is basically a portable PTO drive and you can power anything your mind can conceive to hook up to it !!! Mr. Gravely was a man far ahead of his time !!

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Donald Harris says:

    Logged so many hours mowing fields. The machine would walk right over 1 inch diameter trees with out skipping a beat. Very well designed equipment for large home farms.

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Lust4FunGirls says:

    That stack of washers is what determines how long or short you cut your grass, Raise and Lower the blade,, Once you set the clutch correctly you can cut small trees up to an inch without worry,, I have 7 of these machines from the mid 40s to the late 60s !!! Yours I would say falls in the mid 70s range !!! If you have any questions as to what you can do with this machine please feel free to ask, i have run one since I was a very young kid and Gravely paid for my first truck and car 50 years ago !!!

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars budlvr says:

    Gravely's are Bombproof ! Had a bunch of them (that is an 8hp) at the roofing company I owned. They made a 10hp model that would toss you aside if you got inside the handles and it hit something (that's how you keep them on track, using your hip against one handle to assist steering). We would scratch and inch of gravel off a roof, plow it into rows and shovel it up; come behind it with another unit with a sweeper head, and you could do with 2 men, what would take 6 to do in the same time (minus the shoveling). In the winter, we would plow our truck lot, and when you rear down on the handles at the pile (with tire chains installed) you could push a pile of snow 10 feet tall ! The Foremen fought to get them on their jobs because they were so productive. A little grease, check the fluids daily, clean gas and you were good to go. Gotta watch out when your in between the handles; they could do some damage to the old ribcage and thighs. Great video ! Brings back a lot of good memories. Thanks Mustie !

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars kyfiss ! says:

    I would add a safety pull cord like on a tiller steer outboard boat engine. I would also build a cart that hooks up to it that you can stand on as it pulls you around. I see it has some sort of hook up so I wonder if it had a stand behind cart before.

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Ghostrider304 says:

    When I was a little kid, my dad cut our yard with one of these. He had a seat attachment on the back that had it work kind of like an articulated machine. We replaced it with a John Deere 140, but my dad always said it was a good machine.

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars damoose1829 says:

    I would love to find one of those old Gravely's. To me they are worth there weight in gold. My grand dad had one and I remember the neighbor across the street had an old one back in the 70's. They had a long horseshoe driveway and I would sit and watch him for hours all the time pushing the snow with the plow attachment. His had the taller single wheels. Great Video as always. Thank you

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