my 2004 totaled toyota tundra that the frame rotted out on now only has two wheel drive. lets diagnose it and see what failed? then can we fix it for free?
Hey guys and how's it going, my tundra is having a little bit of an issue and uh. I think we're gon na go wrench on it right now. So the problem is: when you go to put it in four-wheel drive, it should actually go in four-wheel drive and that flashing light. Even when you're bumping gear a little forward, a little back stays flashing and what that's telling you is, it never went actually into four-wheel.
Drive so let's go bring in a garage, go figure out what happened to it and see if we can fix it, hey we're under the belly of the beast. Let's see what we can see, so we've got a shift actuator here, and this probably is for high and low range. I think i'm not sure that i'm just looking for any leaks, possibly on that vacuum hose and there should be one on the front differential, which is this one right here, it's electric plug in a vacuum. I think the vacuum is what fires it.
I'm not sure of that. I think the electrical part of it is just saying whether it was able to make it into four-wheel drive or not. I was looking over that vacuum line right now see if i could feel any kind of break or anything in it. A little muddy.
That's from uh get into the the scrub a little bit. I do not see anything obvious sticking out, so i think there is a fork that is inside of here that shifts over from one side to the other, and i do know it does not go into full drive. No, the light was flashing. I kind of double checked it now.
You turn your wheel all the way to one lock, you try driving around a circle. It should fight you. Well, it doesn't do that uh, real, quick. Why we're down here, though, let's just go: pull the plug, pull the plug, pull the plug on the differential, the sight plug and make sure that the url is now contaminated with a bunch of uh water or something along that line that could have caused it to Be corroded so get that out of there if it has water in it, it'll be kind of a white murky color.
Let's see what we got yeah, it looks pretty good yeah, that's not an issue all right. So what we have under here is the transfer case got a driveshaft going through the rear, drive shaft going to the front. It's got high and low range, and i believe it also turns on and off the front drive shaft. Also the front differential turns on and off also so we're going to go, check and see what we have for that.
Here's, the front differential and here's the controller for the front. Let's go kind of isolate whether is the transfer cases having a problem or the front differential. So i have it running. I have it in four wheel: drive it's in park, the front drive shaft is locked, so that means the differential is firing to turn and lock.
The transfer case on to put power out of the front drive shaft, but if you go to turn the front wheels, let me get you in a stand. I can go under still turn both front wheels. So the front differential is not is what is not locking in it's, not the transfer case. We know what's in the front end last it jeffrey. Let's give her a little. Let's see if it's stuck, don't think that's going to work for us double check. One more time, nope still no front end. It's inside we got ta dig and it's got electrical plug on it and my lights flipping out.
So some of those should be power, countering it carrying it, telling it what direction to run the electric motor to run a servo in a servo out, and then it should also have like a proximity switch built into it. That tells it that it made it that far or not, and that's why the light's flashing on it has like a fork, see here's the proximity switch and here's the fork. The fork has to move put it in four wheel drive. Then it makes a proximity switch.
That's how that light and the dash knows whether to be whether it's in full wheel, drive or not. So so i do feel we're going in. I am going to take a little bit of time and clean a bunch of the crap off and around that. Just to try to make it so we don't contaminate a bunch of stuff the best as possible, it's pretty nasty, but we got to get a little bit better than that in the dripping mud.
Let's get rid of the dripping mud. That's on it anyway. I think we should get that electrical connector off there. Let's just go double check, make sure we have any corrosion.
It's got to come off anyway to be able to get this out of the way and get it down on the bench. So i paste that little hands. I think i'm going to need both my little hands so to speak, get that out of there yeah. Let's get a little pressure on there.
Train's coming quick! Look in there, so you can see the green boogers light looks pretty decent. Let me take a mirror: take a quick peek inside there see if i see anything, i'm going to go on our way up, unbolting this so over on the over on the driver's side. Here's the other plug i was talking about, but everything looked clean inside there. So i'm just gon na go pop that back into its socket before i took it off, there's another connector.
I popped that and looked real quick. I did not see any corrosion in there got the bolts out of this. Let's see if we can get this out of here, get my drain pan. Under there we go.
Let that piss out to whatever level fluid is going to piss out at now. We just have to be able to figure out how to wiggle that sucker out of there get it on the bench all right, so i got it electrically plugged back in. Let's go fire it up one more time and see if this fork will shift over to the right so right now we know it's to the left. Let's fire it up, hit the button and see if it moves at all.
Let's try it again. It's still flashing. Let's go fire it one direction to the other, should be off back on again yeah. That fork is not moving, there's no resistance on it.
Now i was a little concerned that maybe in the differential, the collar was bound up, not locking the shafts together, but it seems to be inside there. Let's go take that sucker apart see what makes it tick. So i apologize if i'm kind of beating a dead horse of what this thing does inside that front axle there's a sleeve that engages the differential to the axles, and it does it's done with a fork. This fork shifts one side to another kind of slips, a collar over from one together and ties the two of them together, and this fork is operated by an electrical signal going to an electric motor, which is probably a gear drive that's inside here. That makes it slide back and forth and that's not moving for us right now. Again, we kind of looked at the electrical contacts we kind of probably could have probed it and seen if there was an electrical issue coming to it. But when i was looking at again, i think this is the electric motor, but how rotten that case is? I have a feeling that this is probably where it is so, let's go. Take a second we'll get the screws out take it apart, see what makes it tick see if we can fix this one, if not we'll get another one and put it in there, get it operational but uh before we go that far.
Let's go see how and what and why this does what it does. I kind of want to take the electric motor off first, but this one's got it locked in place. Let's go see how much these are going to fight us a little bracket that supported the wire going to it and i'm going to need a smaller one of them. You think yeah they're gon na have a good time you got.
The shaking break might be a little bit better off. It vice grips an angle that one doesn't even have anything in it left that a rivet, let's go, try a little pair of vice grips on it sideways. You can go grab them, give them a turn. Two that third one and we're gon na be able to get a bite on that one, because the angle is on yet yep good.
More. What's your bets, you think it's gon na be right here or you can think it's whatever gear is inside here, i'm betting, the motor doesn't turn, which is what if actually got a rust hole right through it somewhere. Let water get in we're gon na find out real, quick kind of nodding off there. A little aren't you so kind of hoping the motor would come with it.
I should have left the way it was the worm gear. It's got a lot of rust on it. Stay yeah, there's the rust right there, there's whatever's on this end of it. There's your problem, yeah! So water got inside.
It looks like part of the whole unit itself. We should be able to get this back the brushes back into place. I think i dropped the spring somewhere didn't i someone there might be inside it here. Each brush has a spring behind it all right.
Let's go take these off by the way we're supposed to take it apart and the motor would have been okay, but lesson learned right. It says slip rings, yeah, look all the rust that was up inside where that ring gear was for the worm. Gear rather was, and then that supposed to be able to turn this assembly right and that shifts the fork from one side to the other. It looks like the corrosion looks like the o-ring failed and that water, and you see the corrosion on the aluminum. I bet you didn't seem like it took very much it's not like it was packed with water. I would have figured that sucker would have been you know for that to happen. Let's go see what we got on the fork. Yeah, it's a little port there.
I wonder if it's supposed to have oil traveling through that that port, i think we can clean it up. I think we can get that little. Let's get the motor right out of there just magnet holding it right now, right yeah. So that looks pretty good.
I think that's burned up. I think we just it literally got seized up on that rust, that's on there, so that would be the fix for the whole thing. Will you be able to do that? I say i wonder if we could do it right on the car somebody's watching this for the next video i'm gon na go clean, that up on a wire wheel and we'll start reassembling it see if we can get this thing to uh, possibly come back to Life, you think it could be more grease on there too right. I think they had an area for the you know to pick up grease, but it didn't look like it really did much all right.
So we'll get this part of it back in the brush. Holding the motor together then we'll drop, we'll drop the center in after that all right wire wheel, chunks of rust, like it works very hard. Was it spin, four revolutions or so? Oh look. It's constantly spinning! It's just trying to go spinning and that's it.
I'm gon na go get the rest of that crap cleaned out of there all that caked in rust, that's in there a little cubby hole and whatever contaminated grease is in there i'll get rid of that corrosion. On the case, too, the same way with the wire wheel, this gear's plastic, but it's got a bunch of crap in it. I don't want to hit it before i will, but i think i'm just going to take a little bit of time. I'm just going to go.
Take a pic and clean out all the grooves, wipe it off with a rag and clean them all out, get all the little rust particles out of that too. Well, i got one of them lassoed, the other one. Does it has a spring it pushes the brush out, and then we got to get the the brush into its location without damaging it definitely had too much coffee. Today, it's not helping things.
Let's give it a little pull the spring back. Oh all right, you're, almost there you guys make me nervous. That's what it is. That's what i'm trying to do where you can see you have to block your vision, just get started.
All we need you to do is get started in the hole and do the same thing i'll take a little bit of mechanics, wire and i'll lasso. This pull the mechanics wire back and then get this out of the way. So you can get the motor down in the center of it as long as they both stay back there we go, there's a little motor get that down fit in there. I think it's just a bearing trying to get that bearing to seat in its cradle yeah. Nice now i'm going to gingerly cut those copper leads away and then pop back out into place make sure we're down all the way. Okay, not cut, don't cut the wrong wire you're, definitely using a bomb. So you can just work that right out of there there. You go all right, i think we can.
Can we put the motor cap back on. I don't see why not right, let's go clean this up a little bit, we'll put some fresh grease on here where the rust is we'll clean this off and we'll get rid of that rust right. There maybe hit this with the wire wheel and we'll pack this with a little bit of grease, to help it seal help it keep it from corroding got to grab that from pulling up because the magnet's going to want to draw it up. So let's hold down on that, and i think we need that notch.
There's a locating, pin right here like that. I don't remember, maybe we'll find out right now. I'd say: that's a no see! It goes just like that. Awesome get those three little baby screws back in there and we'll flip over to the other part put back together.
I was thinking about putting a different grease in there, but i'm not quite sure what to use, though, so i think there's plenty enough always already there. Just to kind of use that and i i literally think that it was not doing anything - i don't think the grease ever transferred to you want me to say it. Don't you you didn't get to lube the shaft all right now we got a spinning motor and a set of gears, and we have this set up. We already cleaned the outer rim.
These are slip rings that that's the grease whatever they're using. I think we should just leave that alone. That's a transfers, the energy from the where the plug is going in and then i'm sure that makes a contact. It's the i was talking about earlier that the light is flashing, because it needs to see that the lever moved a certain amount of distance well if this could only rotate.
So, let's put it back this way if this can only rotate say that far and these contacts never meet could be, i'm not sure which one it is either these or these those contacts never meet it never lets. It know that that lever that lever moved into four wheel drive. So, as that's rotating it says. Okay, i only went that far.
I didn't make the lever transfer all the way over and engage into gear. That's why the light flashes. So that's what all that stuff is. So we need to get this back together and we're going to want to grease up we're going to use.
We use that other stuff because we're just trying to use it for where the brush went there, we're just trying to use it for a seal, keep corrosion down. That's all that we're doing with this they're just going to do more the same. Let me get that lubed up we'll get an o-ring on there and i should have what i should have done when i took it apart. I should have clocked it. I should have put a mark on it how it came apart, but i'm sure we'll be able to figure it out as long as we can get. Actually you know we should do. I know what i just said, but let's go through a little bit on that ring gear too. Let's give it a fighting chance right, it has a mix there we go and i need to go clean that crap off that o-ring.
First, oh greased up, i think, we're good. I don't think it's going to be any we're going to be at the max of one of the travels, i'm not sure which one like that yeah. It was like that in your hole like that. Well, that's got to go in there straight down.
Emma talk to me. Talk to me goose there. You go all right. Yeah one of those funky brackets came up and around and locked over and did something i mean it was in the way of the screw.
Wasn't it like that, i think it was like that no, it was like that and i say we go just go, install it and not install it. We'll just go plug it in underneath and um we'll go up in the truck, we'll fire it up and turn the switch on and off we'll see. If it travels on its own and the light should go out uh, we should stop flashing actually and if that's the case - and we know that this is operating, then we'll put it back in we'll, try it one more time fill up the gear oil. I just want to install it and seal it all up if it's not going to work.
My only thing is, if it kept trying. I wonder if it would try and burn out that little electric uh windings on the motor, because it was just stalled in one location and stayed there. So that's my thing. I'm kind of questioning right now: okay, she's hanging to the right right now.
I remember that again. I know i don't know what position. I think. That's uh, that's hard to say i don't remember what orientation that we had it before and hopefully well it's already on.
It's not flashing and the full drives on. Let's go cycle it. It's off. You see both the same time back on gentlemen and ladies, i think i might do it so it was on right.
So, let's leave it in off position, see if it's in a different spot, i'm not sure, also in the different. Actually, the front would be already in the off position when we took it out because it never wouldn't go into four-wheel, drive right all right. Let's go see what that fork is and we're back underneath it and she's hanging to the left. That's a good sign.
So it's opposite moved like it should that should be the neutral position, so i'm going to take a little bit of time, i'm going to go clean up wherever it is that flange that's up inside there we're going to get some sealer on here. I'll get this all bolted back up. I have to refill the trans actually i'll, probably drink drain, the transfer case uh the front differential, put some new fluid in and we'll see how it does when it's all together, she's a dribbling must mean she's full and for those who aren't familiar with this truck About i got it about six years ago, maybe and it had a rotted frame, but it's already past the recall time. The time was 10 years and it was too far gone past there and toyota went and sprayed like an undercoat inspected. It sprayed an undercoat or a, i don't know what you want to call a flaky crappy material that was supposed to save it also did was make it worse. Well, this frame ended up rotting out all through here and on the sides i welded patches in cut it in. I got the truck real cheap because of that too, and they seem to be holding up pretty good, there's both sizes. The other side, too same thing, was done and then patches up on this side of it were also installed.
Where was it up through? Here? I think yeah we got one here. I thought we did one here somewhere also. I thought that was three per side, but anyway it's holding up pretty pretty well and then, after that, i took bar and chain oil, chainsaw barn channel that you put in a chainsaw, and that is what is sprayed on here and then, as you drive it down. A dusty road: it gets like this little crusty layer that sticks to it, but it is impregnated with oil and it kind of stops it from rusting and same on the inside.
I loaded the inside of the rails up with oil and it's held it up quite well. I don't see any more issues with it could probably go for another spray. You can see where it does starting to wear off a little bit in in different spots, but it's holding up fairly decent for a junk truck. That is all right.
Let's go see if the full drive works so right now the truck is still open tool. Drive. Here's the front drive shaft, you can spin the front drive shaft, nothing is happening with the wheels that is still disconnected so it disconnects is that the transfer case locks out and the front differential differential locks out and that's again just for gas mileage. A lot of the uh earlier forward drives the front diff kind of turned all the time and they would just lock and unlock the transfer case, but it kind of stepped it up since then, and not have to have this all this drivetrain spinning locking together it Still spins anyway, because the axles are still turning the uh, this part of it they're, just not locked all together.
I think we should be in two wheel drive. I think it's where we left it off yeah find out in a second right all right, so we're in two wheel hopefully come on come on. Oh you suck. Oh you suck.
I was concerned. I just had to go kind of the front diff. Sometimes you got to kind of just move it just a little bit, so the gears can kind of slip in and lock over and that's what it did. Let's get it back out of four wheel, she's back out all right success for free! That's how i like it in ow, we'll leave it there. Let's go grab the front wheels and see if the front wheels are locked into place and hopefully that's a good feeling open, gif, a locker. You wouldn't be able to do that with with that back in full drive back in action. Thank you very much. Well guys, i think that's got it.
We're glad that we're able to go take that apart kind of figure out how things work and you know, show how things work, educate ourselves and take the guts apart and get into the guts of whatever the item just failed, not just say: okay, this part failed. Let's go throw another part in it: let's go take the part apart. That's a lot of parts and see what makes it tick see what happened to it. Why did it fail and, to my opinion, is that big rubber o-ring got corrosion around the aluminum it just? Let moisture come in and then it just rusted up on that little drive gear.
I'm amazed that it kind of rusted up in that one spot. That was really weird. How like the rest of it, was really nice and you know fairly dry. We didn't see any moisture in it, but it just kind of built up a rust in that in that one little spot, so no harm no foul.
We got it got her all put back together and uh pretty much for free other than a little bit of gear oil and she's good to live until the next failure. I guess and then we'll make another video on that one. Well guys, i want to thank you hanging out with me and just kind of picking away at my daily drivers. Sometimes they kind of move to the front of the list when things start failing on them, you know how that works and we'll get back into the regular schedule program pretty soon.
So i'll see you in that time until then later bye, a little side note we're up cruising around some back roads and on the side of the road in a free pile was this old girls? Schwinn spike looks like it's been out in the weather for a long time. The rims are all rusted up and everything, but it's complete and it's a three speed. It's missing the cable and all, but it's got the three speed hub on it: the shifter up on there. It's got the schwinn grips the original seat.
Actually, it looks like all the parts are original, possibly even the tires too so that'll go in my stash and maybe we'll see that come back for components for our bike build sometime in the future. I really want to get back into doing one of them. I miss it, oh my god uh. So what happens you forget about the trailer hitch you left on the back, so good thing.
I got other toys, i would have thought there was tar under there. I didn't know. Do now.
Isn't it annoying how 4×4 usually just means two wheels will move, with the other two stuck? And 2WD is basically just one wheel moves… OK for pavement, terrible for snow, dirt, mud, sand…
Observed the little predicament during the 4wd test. You might find it entertaining, that I got a, 1980, Ford Courier stuck on a stump in front yard. I had a few beers that day so really didn't think the removal through to the end. I did get my sons up the hill and out of the way. Hooked a, 1992, Toyota 4wd to the courier with a chain. When I yanked the Courier came off stump and headed down hill towards the Toyota. I dodged the Courier, the Toyota only got a scratch from the chain. Guess I should have left the Courier in gear before yanking it free of the stump. My boys thought it was funny.
A 4-wheel drive without a transfer case is not a four wheel drive as was plain to see in this vid on the gravel pile. A transfer case would have locked both driveshafts in sync and there would have been no front wheels spinning and back wheels doing nothing. My little Wrangler TJ would have climbed that gravel pile with all four tires grabbing a handful.
Bro listen Stol saying…
And uhhhhhh!!
Every fifth word is…
And uhhhhhhh!!
🛑 stop please!!
Listen to your video’s bro!
I mean I love your video’s but..
You say ……and uhhhhhhhh!!
Way to much!!
My 06 Tundra had the same electronic 4WD actuating system. It was crap and extremely finicky. The one on my 04 4Runner is better, but I still prefer a manual engagement.
Anyone that works on old stuff should have an impact driver. This is a device which you has a screwdriver bit in the front. You put a small amount of torque on it and hit the back side with a hammer. This will remove any screw that is rusted or otherwise too tight to undue. Lisle makes the best one that I have found.
Great job. I have a Tundra and have noticed that most of the little motors like that can be repaired and cleaned up vice replaced. If you can save it, OEM will last longer than aftermarket.
OMG you getting stuck like that brings back a bad day memory….me showing off my truck and me saying ill never get stuck . And wamo got stuck backing up into some ones lainway with ice just the wrong build up and got stuck…i looked like a ass for 45 minutes LoL
I can not believe that you did not feel the hitch, scraping half way up.
Certainly, you can fix something but driving a motor vehicle wouldn't be recommended !!!
As soon as he ramped up, I'm like oh no he f'ed up lmfao, that's why I watch videos til' the end cause you never know 🙂
Does the transfer case lock the front and rear drive shafts? Or is this a limited slip?
Is the front diff a full locker? or limited slip.
I'm guessing they are both lockers. But i'd love someone like you to confirm.
Thanks for sharing
I indeed see that my 2012 is the same. So sad the 2022 is now a new design. Maybe it's better. I bet not.
Sure is pricey now a days.
🙂 I was screaming for you when you were putting the brush back in but then greasing the shaft calmed the nerves. Loved the ending too. People who haven't done that kind of stuff are just armchair quarterbacks. Haha
Mustie, you're so brave. There's not a chance in the world I would have tried to even touch that or would have even thought to have touched it in the first place. But that's of course why you have this channel and why you do it you do. Great entertaining content as usual !
what an overrated piece of crap those trucks are. frame rot. takes 80 minutes to go into 4wd and you had to move the gear shifter a little. good thing it doesn't have the infamous toyota engine sludge.