All right hey guys, how's it going? This is a snowb blower I picked up during the and going into the fall. it was free on the side of the road I know I shot a clip of it getting it and uh it was this and a I think it was a John Deere riding mower was also with it so I grabbed both of them. Both of them have sat out in the weather and have definitely had some use to them. Uh again, they were free.

The owner did come out I forgot what he said was wrong with them on both of them. but I guess that's what we're here to go figure out. So our job is to try to resurrect this thing and or figure out what happened to it without further. Ado Let's get doing some wrenching.

So it's a Simplicity 1226 26 6 in being the width of the cut and 12 is probably the horsepower or close to it. uh definitely is on the older side. You can tell by you know, the paint lifting off of it and uh, without a light we can't see too much in there. It's running a Briggs engine.

it's got electric start, it's got the Uh remotes for the shoot to uh change the angle and to rotate it left, left, and right that might all be done by one. not sure see we got I don't know what year it is yet neither. it's kind of looking like I don't know, maybe 20 years old something along those lines. It's a decent one as far as machines go.

Again, it's on the larger horsepower side of things. Yeah, 1150 so 11 and half horsepower engine on that. All right. let's go start looking into we'll start with the engine probably first, just kind of give it a quick assessment.

see we got there any fuel in it? I Do see fuel in it? Let's go see if we have any oil in it. Then we'll give a tug on the cord there and kind of see uh, if it turns over I would suspect it does. I Probably wouldn't have taken it if it didn't dirty with some in there. All right.

It looks like it's bleeding some oil out from around the base of it too. Let's get some covers off of it. We'll get this cover off and there's a belly pan underneath and it shows like the drive part of it, the transmission part of it. We'll kind of give a quick assessment on those.

Let's get it up in the air first. both tires are flat. Let's go throw some air in them and see if they stay while we're working on it. Do the same to the other side.

they get like 10 lb. So I believe we have one on this side for this cover and possibly two on the other that off there. Definitely a lot of belt dust hanging out, so this one drives the front one drives the augur and the back one drives the wheels and the back one usually doesn't see much stress you. Again, it's kind, uh, just driving the wheels, but the front one can get pretty burned out.

I'm also looking to see if this pulley. there's a there's a bushing inside here that wears out and I'm looking down there and I'm looking to see if that bottom pulley lifts up and down and it does not. so that's good. All right, let's go get the belly paint off.

It's already hanging halfway off too. Somebody's already either not put it on right. It's got two screws, one on each side of that and that pan should be able to drop down out of our way. Got the front two out and I ran a strap to the ceiling to hold the as end up in the air.

All right, what's going on That's loose, that's why. I Also see I'll show you in a minute up top. one of the bolts are, uh, backed out of the engine. Now a lot of times these are just.

you don't even have to take them all the way out. they're keyed. Let's see if that's the case. All right, let's go take a peek on the underside of it.

They have what's called a drive disc. I'll show you so the transmission. The transmission is essentially variable speed, but it it does have detents and you can kind of see where the rubber has been dissipated on each section of that disc. Jo That's pretty clean and It has a rubber.

Drive Disc up here has a tendency to burn out over time, especially if people abuse them and abuse them. What? I I mean is like if you're in a heavy snow bank and uh, you have it in like fourth gear instead of uh, first gear. So this is like fourth gear that's running really fast and this is, you know, first gear really close to the center and uh, what happens is you'll run in heavy snowbank in the front of the driveway and you're slipping and when it slips, it deposits the rubber on there. Like you see there, you're actually kind of like kind slipping a clutch chain.

Looks pretty good. I Don't see anything standing out right away under here. That's terrible. The bushings are gone in the axle.

There's plastic bushings if you can see right there. see the top of that. I'll lift up on that axle, see the play that's in there and ioke. I Would suspect the other side is possibly the same way.

Let's go see. Yeah, this thing definitely has some hours on it and what that can affect is, um, just the uh Drive of that chain. Sometimes what you could do too is if you don't have them, you just take those bushings and spin them around so that the play is on the bottom side of them. but that's getting ahead of yourself and nothing terribly standing out.

You know that disc? probably. It depends when you put it back together and uh, you'll put it in like second gear and you just try to pull and see if the wheels will spin. The axles have definitely never. The wheels have definitely never been off.

That could be an issue. What they have is um, two wheel drive and onewheel drive. If you're doing like a lot of straight driveways, you leave it in two wheel drive which it's in right now and one wheeel drive drive would take this pin out and you take this pin and put it in this location here and this wheel here can Freewheel and then the other one is just the drive wheel and if you're making like a lot of turns, it makes it so the machine turns easier. We got oil piston out, it looks like possibly just kind of ran down from the fill.

I Show where the bolt is hanging out right there. that bolts backed off for some reason I Don't know what's going on there, that belts got some cracks in it. it's uh, dry belts too on a snowblower. they I think it's they do it on purpose.

It won't be like a a 34 in belt, a 33in belt. It'll be 33 and 3/16 So you can't just take a regular belt for uh, the most part you have to go buy the one that they, uh, try to sell for the machine. That's true with both belts too. All right, let's go let it back down.

Let's go start looking into the engine. Actually, let's do a little quick more walk around. So these are called shoes or skids and if you look at that one, you could see it's worn right through. That's how many hours are on it also.

but with these you could take them and flip them around the other direction you can see. This side has never been used yet, but a lot of times when people do that has a tendency to burn out the back of the bucket. There's a Cutting Edge You see those bolts gone across a Cutting Edge inside right there. I Generally if you have a, you know, gravel or dirt driveway, you'd want to leave about A/ inch.

Gap You'd set these shoes up over here so they have about a half inch Gap so they're not touching and uh, you're not scooping up the gravel. but if you have a pave driver you, you kind of let it rub right on there. There's a gearbox in the center, which is that right there. These have a tendency is like a worm gear in there.

Uh, they have a tendency to blow. usually. you can kind of tell if um, I'm just checking to see like that's the distance that that's able to move before that's moving the gear inside. Not calling it bad, but just to be suspect on that, we'll kind of keep an eye on that.

That seems like a a little on the excessive side. The rest of it doesn't look too be I Don't see you know big bends on any of the parts of the augur. A lot of times you'll you know hit a piece of wood or kids toy dog toy and they get chewed up and that also take out the center. There they have what's called shear pins in them.

That's one right there and should be another one there and those are like forgiveness factors. If you do hit something this pin will break and the axle in the center of it will keep driving so it keeps you from blowing out that gear box. That one's nice. That's a cast iron box.

An aluminum does look like it's pissing some fluid out though. All right, let's go look at the engine. Let's go double check that oil level, make sure there's something in it and we'll do is we'll pull it over. Yeah, let's go pull it over.

you going, listen to it feel it looks like it's got compression. Good. Uh, let's go check out the electric starter. We'll go plug a extension cord into that.

We'll give that a spin. Notice this one doesn't have a throttle, it's just fixed. We're going to get this in there. Get in there fat, Come on you think any good? Yep, all right let's um, start getting into fixing its Wos which is probably going to be the fuel system no matter what.

We got to kind of look into that anyhow. so let's get some of these coverage out of our way. There's a float ball right down underneath under here we want to get access to. it.

Looks like a lot of times these they strip out on us like this whole assembly is kind of busted off that what that bolt was holding. Somebody's been here before, so let's um, looks like the bracket probably broke right inside there. All right, let's go get some tools. let's get this off of here.

Probably has a screw down the center of it and we'll get this cover out of here. Let's go with that lower cover first. Oh yeah, well in a bit that's never been off, there's any more for that one you Mouse n nope. let's get this.

Might this might just pop right off of here. Maybe not. Pick a peek underneath. There's no screw in the center of it.

might have like a little quick connects. like quick. um tabs on it. quick for going on, not for coming off.

Let's uh, work on getting that cover off these. This has a tendency I Have a good idea what's going to happen. The post is going to come out of the cap. Let's not get D demn it yet though.

Go see that one actually came out. it wants to live. Yeah, usually that'll rip out inside the post there. All right, let's get this bracket off of here and possibly this assembly can come up out of the way with it.

and it's linkage down below halfway there and take a peek behind the curtain. Well, that part comes out of. EAS There's a broken bracket that we have to deal with so there's a long plastic stem going down to the choke and I don't see where it comes off on the other end. Let's see if we can go back to getting the walls of this to kind of release.

You know there like an easy way to do it and it's not doing it. Looks like it's actually got like maybe four tabs going for it. Come on, give me way for you. You come off.

I'll show you the back side of what I'm talking about. there's the stem. I'm trying to figure out how to get that to release without breaking that plastic stem off of there. I'm going to work on that top I Get you in there to see what I'm doing.

Can you see the outer edges? it's in? Focus but the outer edges look like it snaps over that centerpiece. Wonder if I can get a little tiny socket down the center there to push them all out evenly at the same time? There it go. It's off. Now you have a wire going to that kill.

That's that right. there is. just so if you walk away without that in there, it's not supposed to start here. we go.

Carb definitely needs some love. The primer bulb was rotted off that goes right there on the carb. that gives a little shot of fuel when you're ready to go. All right, let's go.

Um, let's go drop that float Bowl on it. is it got to shut off for the fuel? I Do not see one? All right. We'll pinch off that fuel line and we'll drop that flow ball. See what we got going on in there? Get that a little.

you can get a urine sample out of it. that's the right size. Nope. That one that piss for a second.

Think that's gas or water. What's your bet? My guess is a little bit of both. See what that main jet looks like when it comes out. It's got a bunch of crap in it.

The bowl off of it. you going to be one of them. There we go. Well, not I've seen worse.

So there that, let's um, turn the fuel back on. I'm going to let that piss a little bit. I Want to see what we got for fuel? If it's fuel. If it's water, water is heavier than the fuel so it goes to the bottom of the tank that you kind of be the first thing out of it.

All right? We'll let that set up deeper. We'll let that set up in a cup and we'll see if water up separates out of it. Onward, let's get the plug out of it. Come on now.

we'll see if I have any spark should I jinx myself I'll say it. I'll regret it. generally. snow blow it seems like I I Really don't have too much of a problem with them not having spark again.

Now that I said it, the kill switch the The Wire unplugged so it shouldn't make any difference. I'm talking about this right here. That won't make any difference when you close that path. If you like you were to jump those two wires together, then it won't go.

Plug looks kind of definitely carbony. Looks like it's uh, definitely been running with a choke on it looks it looks like so I may have had some run issues. Let's go throw that back on the plug wire. where' it? Go There it is and there's an onoff switch.

Let's go turn that light off you think Arc it off the carburetor. Let try it right there. Let's uh, turn that light off. There's an onoff switch over here I don't know if you can see it.

Let's go put that on on and we'll see if we have any spark. Yes we do. I Hope you guys are able to see it from there. Good Let's go see what our fuel system is doing here.

Sounds like somebody's getting ready for uh, supposed to get a snowstorm coming up tonight. until tomorrow? I think or tomorrow Be good because we're putting a snowblower together. It's enough snow. it's cloudy I think that'll probably separate out.

you can kind of I don't know if it's showing up. got a cloudy look look to it so we'll clean that and that. I Don't know if I want to pull that carb off of there and let's go take a quick peek underneath. We probably should.

Yeah, and let's get that out of our way. So we're going to go take those two screws out. This is a sparker rester. Um, snowballs don't run air cleaners.

Basically, they're run in a clean environment, so there's really no real need for an air cleaner. That and if you run like a paper air clean. If they get wet, they just freeze up and turn into a saw block and it chokes itself out. So let's go see if that, um, the throttle moves does and the choke is doing what it should be.

All right, let's get those off of there. We want to get the fuel out of it anyway. so we'll get that fuel line off of there and we'll let the tank, uh, piss what's in it out. We go.

We can get that fuel line a little bit better. There's a tendency to, um see what that plastic white plastic elbow is there. They're kind of fragile. ask me how I know I have um, hose pliers.

That kind of helped, but sometimes you're better off just taking a razor blade slicing them. Let me get the clamp out of the way first there. The hose clamps are just clamps that are meant to go around it. It gives you a better chance of supporting it.

We'll give it a shot. and I also know when to say when it's got a blade and slice it. Yeah, it's a good size machine for pretty much it can tackle whatever you throw at it. I say basically, you know, unless you don't get that much snow, you don't have that much area.

but generally eight horsepower and greater the width isn't that important. Let's get that up out of our way. We got enough on the fuel line I believe so we can just kind of slice it back if we don't replace it. We also got what's left of that that's the Um primer.

When you push that little bulb that was on the outside cover, it pushes air down into here, pressurizes the the floal and squirts fuel raw fuel into the center of it just to help start it when it's really cold. All right, So we should have two more screws back behind it back here and there's one linkage rod up top. Once we get those two screws out, we can turn the carburetor up and get the linkage off of it I think they're 10 mm, but a lot of times you can't get a socket in there. There we go.

Fortunately, carburetors for snowblowers like the um like a Briggs in the Duma one of the Duma the the U they're fairly cheap I haven't bought like last time I bought them like I usually buy like I Go on eBay I buy like you know, four at a time I may even have one upstairs and uh I Want to say 25 bucks a piece? Well, they were. who knows what they are now, right? That one's gummy. We're going to strip this down and I have a uh Ultrasonic Cleaner with carburetor cleaner in it. see if that's any threads with it.

had that feeling to it. uh, just corrosion. Maybe a little threads? All right. So now we should be able to wiggle this out of there and I know all the stuff's in the way, but we should be able to angle this and unhook it from the throttle and then it also has it's a little tiny spring along with it, so there's that and there's a little spring there.

it goes that um goes in the other hole. so we got both of those off of there. The float already fell off, which means the pin fell out of it and I lost the needle I'm going to go look for those components in there. so you got that carburetor off.

It's your little suspect of the fact that we may have. Mouse Nest Go figure right? Possibly in there. and it's an air cooled engine so you definitely want to make sure that that is not left behind cuz if you allow to overheat it will cook itself. Let's uh, quickly take the pull start cover off of it.

It may have been all of it right there. but I Just want to double check. So we need to get this little plate off of here and we probably have about three or four screws going around the perimeter and hopefully there's enough room for that pull art to come away. Got one more hiding? Think it's up behind? There might be only three? Give it a wiggle.

Yeah, just the uh. there's a a capture up in here. Come on it. Any mice running actually looks pretty clean.

You know if we didn't pull it apart, it would have been more. Let's take a peek up around that um, power wire looking right there there? a there's a goober goober of it. I See any wires chewed? That's a good sign. All right.

let's um, get the fuel draining out of it. It's let rip thought about taking the tank off, but let's go open the will that just hang for us. You feel secure. let that piss out look too bad.

again. we see uh, water kind of separates in the bottom. Let's go look at the um. the cup.

I'm not seeing any signs of it. it you'll you'll see. um if there's water, you rotate it back and forth right where that jet is sitting. There'll be like a it almost look like a bubble but it's water sitting on the bottom floating back and forth.

So this has a um, every car has what's called a needle and seat and so this is the needle. and sometimes the tip of the needle has the um like a better word, the rubber uh, sealing part of it and sometimes the base of the carburetor which is down inside there has it. This one has it down in the center of it so soaking it it for too long will take that seal out. It will also take out this bowl gasket that we're trying to screw with right now I Don't know if that's going to want to play well with us I Don't know if I have a carb kit for this either, but if I was to leave this in there, this will swell to the point where it's unusable.

Ah, it's already cracked so have to go hunt I know I have them for the comper carburetors I Don't know if I have anything for the Briggs as far as these seals, so let's just be a little on the gingely side too late, right? You already broke it. See if we can get that to separate, break the seal all the way around. Here we go. Worst case, we'll piece that back together if we have to.

All right, and so down in the center, let me get some light on there. Down in the center of it, there is a mainjet and an idle. Jet Get you a bit of light on it, you can see there's two two posts. Get the light behind you.

Does that work? There you go. There was, uh, two posts down in the center with two brass tubes, large ones. the main jet. That's where most of the fuel goes through.

and then when it goes to an idle, it has that little one on the side. More than times than not, that little one's the one that gets clogged. And what happens when it does that is it'll hunt. Um, it'll hunt either if you're trying to idle the machine again.

This one doesn't have a throttle on it, so it's just meant to run a certain RPM But even with that, like, if there's no load on it, let's see where the throttle is. So that's the throttle that's wide open throttle and that's you know. idle is probably just a hair off of that. Well, what will happen is if there's no load on it, it'll run at the regular RPM Uh at idle.

TR Best way to put it, it uses the idle circuit with the main circuit for um, both. But what will really show up is when it goes to go, um, towards idle or to slow down when there's no load on it so the throttle closes. Now the idle circuit's clogged. There's nothing there at all, so it just goes to stall right out, goes down to nothing.

So what the governor does takes over and gives it. Full Throttle Again, what'll happen is it'll start doing a bounce off of that. It'll go idle. It'll go like down to nothing.

Rev up down to nothing. Rev up. Something just took a jump off the bench. Wasn't the fuel.

No, we're good. so it'll It'll hunt on you. it. it'll get that wom boom.

It'll do that. Um, sometimes all the time until you engage the Augur and the Drrive where it's got a lot of load on and it just kind of stays. Full Throttle But if not, what it'll do is like, say the thing set up to run at 3600 RPM which is fairly common. 3600 RPM which is probably about that much throttle, but it's still using the idle circuit so it's running to lean so it goes to stall out.

What it does is, it revs itself up. Now it's ring too fast to close the throttle back down again, but there's nothing there cuz the idle circuit is closed. so that's more common than not. and a lot of times the cleaner cannot get in there to go clean that part out and that's it's.

very common to have to go replace the carburetors because of that, but again, we're not going to go jinx it yet. We're going to throw it in the cleaner and let it do its thing for a little while. We're not going to leave it in there terribly long. like I said I still have that um seal that's down inside there, which, um, if you go to try to take it out, you're going to ruin it.

and I don't think I have one. So something called the main circuit in idle circuit. And then there's a jet which allows a pre-programed amount of fuel to get up in. There is this that's threaded in there which is also holding the bowl on, but you can see it's got holes in the side of it.

Fuel is drawn up through that in the float ball, and up through the center. and it's it's A. It's a metered amount of fuel to kind of go. Um, keep everything in check I don't know what the best way to kind of put that is, but that's what its job is it.

It's the jet that, um, meters how much fuel the carburetor gets overall and then those two ports up there draw with need depending on where the throttle is. Here's that: Ultrasonic Cleaner I was talking about haven't shown this in a video in a while? huh? And we're just going to throw the bowl, the carb, and that main jet in there and then on the side. it's got, um, vibration and temperature so we're going to run both of them up. That's vibration and that's temperature.

We're going to let them cook for a little bit eventually. That'll start. Um p Sating around start. see it's starting to happen now.

A lot of people put like water with, um, some kind of soap in it. This is actually what you would use um for carburetors I'll show you that's what's in there cuz every single time I use it 100 times. it's in the comments. what is in there? Uh, you try to don't be stupid with how hot you're heating it up, but it seems to work fairly well.

Plus once in a while I let the I drain all the fluid out of the ultrasonic cleaner. it's got like a drain valve on the bottom of it. I kind of filter it out, run it through. Um, not a coffee filter.

Coffee filter is too thick. um like a like a paint filter which got that screen on the bottom of it and I get all the crap out of it. and then again, there's sludge that'll sit on the bottom of the Ultrasonic Cleaner probably be about like 38 of an inch. It just sludge.

clean it back out, throw it back in. seems to work for, uh, quite a while. It didn't have a ton of fuel in it, which is good, but there is a little bit of water right? I Don't know if you can see it can see it down there. just a drop or two.

but that'll get you because the carburetor. It's too thick and the carburetor can't suck it up that little dirt stain that's over there in the corner. Um, let's go and what do I want to do I take an air gun I'm going to blow it around the tank a little bit. make sure I I Kind of dry it out and we could probably put that pull start cover back on after we make sure there's no Nest material in it and maybe we'll do a compression test.

Try to blow that out, it blow out the fuel line I'm going leave the cap off of that I'm probably going to let this sit overnight anyway and any water that's in there kind of Left Behind or fuel, it should evaporate. What I'll do is I I'll hit that one more time tomorrow again with air just to blow out if everything's evaporated. Just if there's any dirt that's left behind, it spit out a little bit more water. Yeah, you see, it's sitting in the center right there.

See it, We'll We'll tip it to one side. it'll it'll gather. Well, I'll bring us back later to this. you can see how little bits of water it just spit out.

Actually, this has electric start on so we can, um, leave that cover off and see what we get. Anything over 100 lb is good. Sometimes they have a decompression valve in it. can kind of give you a false reading, but we should be able to get up over 100.

What? you guess I'm going to say 125 I think the plug wire fired off a little bit of uh, have to replay that I think it lit off like some fumes coming out of the uh, the the spark PL hole the carburetor? rather. Yeah, So 13 25? No. I didn't cheat. Let's go try it one more time.

now. What? What changed killed it? Sure, that's tight. That's weird. going to dribble a little bit of oil in there.

see if that number comes up again. More than likely it's got a decompression valve in it. See if that number comes up that number comes up, it would be Rings If The number doesn't come up, then it's uh, vales. let's go spin it a little bit like bump it, give a hair more, get that out of your eyes and the carburetor is not affecting because it's not on there sometimes that can choke it.

Let's go see what we get. Yeah, see the same H decompression valve is like a Um on the cam shaft. There's a little lobe that attaches a lot of times to the exhaust valve. It holds the exhaust valve open a little bit longer and allows not the compression to come all the way up until it gets over certain.

RPM And then that little cam comes out of the way and um allows it so that when you're trying to pull start it that you're not, you know, ripping your arm out. That's the whole idea of it but usually doesn't shut off till it's about um like running RPM like 800 RPM or 700. RPM That it does it. Let's make sure we don't have a tight valve.

I'm going to go get this plastic cover out of our way and we'll get the valve cover off and we'll just kind of check valve clearances real quick. make sure we don't have something uh funky. if a valve is too tight, it'll also do the same thing and it'll cause it not to build compression all the way up. Kind of wondering too if the decompression valve was stuck and it like popped free top screw might be a little tight to get to you.

Get it? We need a short. oh you're a tricky one actually. do. we need to take that muffler off anyway to weld it that bracket's busted.

Let's um I don't know. Maybe maybe not. I mean maybe causing myself more troubles? go grabish off a little rubber mallet or Ra hiide that hasn't been off ever. Neither.

All right, we're in. That one feels like it actually has too much. We're going to have to go find out what the Um valve clearances are, but I was looking for a tight valve and I don't think that's the case. That feels like a little too much though.

We's see if I can look it up. see, find that what the Val clearance is in. it's adjustable in the center right there. It's got like a set screw.

You loosen the outside and you run the center in and out. It runs the whole rocker closer. or further. pardon the background noise the heat is on.

Here's a picture of that cam shaft I was talking about. Here's the two loads. that's the intake. I Think that's the exhaust valve and it's not a great picture but this lever right here.

That's that decompression valve that I was talking about and it has like a little I Think it's that piece right there. When the camshaft is not spinning very fast, it interrupts the it. I Think it holds the cam open longer to lower the compression. then once it starts to spin, it's got like counter weights on it that take it.

I Think it swings this way and allows that pad to go down and Tuck out of the way and allow it not, uh, interfere with the compression anymore. Let's go see what the valves are now. I'm going to run a screwdriver down inside there. try to find the Piston at top bed Center which is right there.

Couldn't be that lucky. Let me go bring it around again. so you see the valves will move. So that's not the compression stroke, that's the compression stroke right there.

So we want to check valve clearances right at top that. Center Let's go see what they are right now. so the exhaust is quite high. That is a 15,000 fer gauge I'm putting in there that should really be like I'm getting kind of like, um, different results.

but it's um, that's pretty open too. That one's probably like 12, but it should be like five and eight. Let's go try a 13. Here's a 10.

Yeah, so the intake is at like 10. Got to watch it. Don't push too hard cuz if the valve moves down, you're kind of defeating the purpose. Just have a little bit of drag on it.

So we're at like 10. and what did I say it before? It was like 15 or 14. There's a 14. yeah, 14.

Sloppy. So that valve is got too much play in it. so we're going to go crank down on that. I'm going to go just make sure we're good.

so the center is what's adjustable. I Think we have to go crack the outside loose. That looks like what? maybe a 14 or a 15? 15? Nope. 916 5 A about 5 a made in.

USA We're going to go crack that loose and then that Center has an Allen Wrench in it. We're going to go tweak that. Have a feeling it's not Metric. There we go.

Let me go double check my numbers. Our carbur has been humming away for about an hour 45 minutes. Go take that out of there. see how that looks? We rinse that out with.

um. water. Got little sludge that came out of that? Plus there's some sludge. Oh, we got.

Go fishing. Where is my little friend? You get it? I hear it skipping up. We got parts from something else. What carburetor is missing that that ran like crap? Whatever.

That was all right. Let that cool off. I'll go in and get it. Yeah, you stick your fingers in there.

There it is. There's all that sludge I tell you about that builts up in the bottom over time. All right. So I was looking at valve adjustments on this and I came up with conflicting reports and uh, we're going to kind of maybe skirt in between the two.

So uh, and other people had the same problem too. judging by the thread that I got got on to. uh, some say it's 6,000 and 6,000 Some say it's 6,000 for the intake and 9 to 11,000 for the exhaust. So this is between six and 11,000 on the exhaust again.

I'm not sure where the decompression valve kind of comes in. Sometimes that can get screwed up on which valve it's on and all. Um, we're going to set it at nine I see how we make out it? It's still tighter than what it was. Again, it it was really sloppy.

so so let's try to dial in ninth. Ow. Again, it's going an all wrench in the middle of it. I'm going to back the nut off I'm going to run it till I Get drag.

Get in there till we get nine. It feels pretty good. Sometimes it does change when you crank down the nut. Let's go hold Center Let see what that does.

That's maybe a hair too tight. maybe not. Let's go do the other one. Six is very popular.

Um, valve clearance on a lot of different things. That's why I have the six out out of that pack on this little hand tool. Let's go. Where are we at now Sloppy? Let's go crack that Center loose.

The center is what locks it down, not the outer. There we go. You go too hard. you're going to end up you're going to be out of whack because you're actually pushing the valve down.

So let's lock that one there. Come that one's a little too loose I Got to tweak them a little in the hole. So a lot of times when you go to tighten down whatever it uses for Jam nut. in this case, it's the center.

It'll uh, change a little cuz you're getting taking the play out of the threads. All right, that one feels pretty good. Let's go double check that one. Now that's sloppy.

Why is that sloppy? Now what change? That's the nine. All right, cuz it's not tight. That's why. let good too loose.

I'm going to play with this. I'm going to play with my tools. so I dial that in, seed it and we'll come back. Let's go right there.

There we go. All right. That one feels good. That one feels good.

All right. Good enough. Let's go get that little metal flake off of there. I'm going to go pop that valve cover back on there, keep the crap out of it and we'll jump onto something else.

So I want to go get that muffler off there and that is not happening. Not without breaking stuff. I put the spark plug back in so that that hole is not open and I was able to separate that that bracket that was up there. Let's go.

uh, wire wheel, clean some of that surface up there, bring the welder over and see if we can Buzz that back together on the machine. but I think a wise decision before we do that is to get rid of the uh open gas that is sitting I Just wanted to show the separation. Here's after it sat well. there's that water sitting on the bottom of it and what happens is the jet can't suck up like that.

That'll go to the lowest point and that's where the jet is sitting. It tries sucking that up and it can't work a lot of times. Machine will run and die. Run and die.

What it's doing is it runs, it tries to drop that water and It it can't The machine stalls out, the water kind of pulls away a little bit. It's able to suck gas up again until a couple seconds later and it does it all over again. So gas caps back on too and a little for the other side. Good.

We's see if we can get on each side of the BCE grip and then we'll get rid of the BCE grips. Hi, try that again. Might have welded the vice grips to it. Let's go see what happens.

Yeah, we'll get it off there. There we go. Rubbing is racing. let's um, hopefully get a good ground.

see if that'll do it going. Build up a puddle around it just because it failed once before. that's all. it already cracked there.

have to grind it down a little bit. Whatever. However, the two pieces screwed together before might have to just kind of put a dimple in the upper piece. What's your thoughts on? Um, doing another compression test? You want to see if we got a difference from adjusting those valves and we get that plug back out of there? We'll put the compression test gauge back in her and spin her around.

that's warm. Ask me how I know Again, there's no carburetor on it so it shouldn't starve for air. Yeah, my guess is that decompression valve is now working and it wasn't before. Again, that's just a guess.

we're g to find out. I gu I guess Um, let's go put that carburetor back together. We'll start butting some stuff up and see if we could fire it up. actually run it.

We'll have a better idea what's going on. It's looking a little crunchy in there afterwards. see if any of that's loose. Yeah, sometimes the aluminum gets, um, just stained.

I've already blown that out Every Which Way Um so the biggest thing is going to be a bow gasket on a carburetor that has a primer. If the bowl uh, has an air leak anywhere in it, the primer will not work. So I do believe we have a new one here in our stash and because what it does when you P push the primer bulb in it comes down, a hose pushes air into here. This is a all tense and purposes.

we'll call it a closed chamber and the only place it has to go push is pushes fuel up through the center of the carb and it just injects raw fuel into the center just to get it to start when it's cold. So a bowl gasket is definitely a uh, a need. or El the air is just going to leak right out wherever that you know that brake is that's in it all right. I'm going to throw this back together real quick.

I've done this 9,000 times before. I Think you get the idea. Look that two pieces going back together Of course it's got the Uh weld underneath it and it's missing a screw. So we're going to go get ourselves a big old fat self Tapper find our hole and make it fit TI now and button all the covers up trying to chase things.

Let's go see if we got enough fuel line left. I'm going to go cut it right above that split should fuel. L of self seems pretty good. I'm not going to change it.

It's kind of like a pre-formed line. It's got some bends in it. Let's go grab some pliers. I Think we're almost to the point.

we could put some fuel in it and see if it pisses out and we can. probably. uh, the cover has the um primer bulb on it I Wonder if we can possibly leave that to the side? Let's go trim that in here. You might be able to see this, the fuel squirt into it.

Let's go get some gas and dump it in the tank. All right. we got it filled up. I Don't see anything pissing out of it.

Let's go hit the primer bulb a couple of times see if we get that fuel coming up. Yep, see it pissing into it. So that's how the primer works. It's got kind of like a closed chamber.

you're pumping air into the bottom of it has the fuel has no place to go. It pushes down and it turn goes up up through the the center and uh, deposits it in just raw fuel to the center to give it a a bit of a prime shot. Ni's give it a shot, see if she starts out Parts Complying out of it, takes off out of the bench, eats the cabinet in front of it. Uh, you'll give a choke see how it idles.

It has an idle circuit so that's good. Let it run for a second. good. Only problem is you can't shut it off.

Go slow enough for where it'll die. There you go, we don't. I don't have the kill switch hooked up. Actually, we do.

We had it right over there. Uh good. It's got a little bit of heat in it now. let's go get the oil draining out of it.

Yeah, hopefully no little metal bits come out. Here you go BP the whole thing's turn. It's common. throw throw some Bice scripts on the on the shaft.

Probably it's first oil change ever. Yeah, yeah, definitely been. uh, a day or two. That was crudy, but that's why I want to kind of run it just for a second just so that it, um, all the crap will settle to the bottom.

you know if it sits long enough? So kind of want to run a little bit and let it get. um, what's a good definition for IT Help Me re uh I'm lost. Make up a word I Don't see much in the way of metal. Sometimes you'll see like a little puddle like a color difference in it.

See a little bit right there and it'll be like the particulates that are in it. reconstituted reconstituted dirt. We going go with that. Seems like I should have been more than that in there.

We'll let. We'll let it set for a little bit. I already got leaned in back too. So I think all the wetness around here.

this plug was just on the the loose side I think it was just slowly pissing out. It's probably what it's got. a little on the low side for oil too. something.

They have a o-ring on it I don't see what on there and sometimes there's a fill on both sides. They'll have one on each side. Let's go check the other one real quick if there is one, but we'll just give her a little bit more. Did I have that off earlier I don't remember.

Yeah, that one's loose too. I think both of them are loose. No. O-rings you can't see, can you? I'm not even looking at it.

Yeah. I think we just kind of popped that one off. All right. we'll crank down on those pretty good and rinse some of that dirt off of there while it's draining.

kind to clean it up. May take an air gun too and blow some of that uh rubber dust out of there and'll start looking into the dry part of it in the front. It all seems like it's functioning. Just button up all the Plastics that wants to go back on about as easy as it came off.

Let's go give it a quick and that's tight. There it goes I just push the choke plate out of the bottom of the carburetor. it's getting the good stuff cuz it's all I got she's got I think it's 10:30 supposed to get I got 5:30 synthetic Um run the thinner oil because it usually runs during the winter time and winter time your oil thickens up so thin oil. So like I said in the beginning, the belts are specialty belts.

You just can't take a regular belt and throw them on there you can. um. and there is an adjustment on the Um tension on the uh augur side and this one seems like it's got fairly good tension on it. Let's go I got the lever on it right now with the clamp.

Let's go release that it has a spring I'll show you so it's got the rod comes down. Got this Rod right here. and then there's a spring which is kind of like a um overt travel so that's uh, belt engag and then you can see how much stretch is that on. that also looks like somebody may have been in there adjusting it.

It looks like it's not up against the stop but the Uh ID low tension. it has a slot on it too. I'm not sure if it's showing up and that's already in, so somebody already adjusted it a little bit on the inside, so there's that and then that's full tension. that belt.

I'm going to probably have to go order one, but it should function for us for now. You can see it breaking up on the other side a little bit and again, like I said that, the tensioner is already all the way in so it's already been adjusted on. Let's go pop you on the stand. go check out those um uh ey look polies.

So we're going to go pull them off the belt and we're just going to give them a spin and listen to them. That one seems okay. this one's constant. Um, see, the best way to go do that one might have to get a big screwdriver behind it and lift.

Here we go. The belt's dragging on a little bit, but I'm just kind of I'm just listening for growling in the bearing and that one seems fine too. the bottom. Like I said earlier, when you're uh, pushing on the Belt if that's more of a bushing than a bearing, the one that's going that direction.

So when you put tension on that, the bushing will get plenty. It'll kind of like if if you could see that bottom pulley lifting up and dropping down, then you know you got a problem. This one generally does not much work being done to drive the wheels so that Jally does not have much of an issue. As far as the drive is concerned, that wheel tilts anyway.

The uh. idler. The Um Drive disc rocks down and touches and does not touch. That makes sense, touches and does not.

It engages and disengages on that that surface of that right there. Let's um, go take a peek under there. I Don't think there's anything up here we need to address that we can't address. And you know, getting a new belt on it's not that big of a deal.

When belt comes in generally. Um, you take the top two screws out and the top two screws out on each side and the whole machine will split. It'll Rock Open tension will come off the belt and it'll be a gap in between that you're able to get the belt out of that system that's in there. Most machines like that.

Uh, sometimes you can have a pulley. You'll take the bolts out of the pulley and the two halves of the pulley will come apart and you put a belt through it and then put it back on. Not sure what kind of view you got. So again, here's that pulley that we were looking at and for for the drive part of it.

and it spins this disc and pretty much spins it all the time. And this is a drive disc that goes out to the axles. It's got a a chain of sprocket on that side with a gear reduction and a chain of the sprocket on this side going up to drive the axle of the wheels and you can see how that spins if I go to spin the the wheels so that's in Top Gear Right now the closer to the center this disc is here I'll shift it so that was in Top Gear so now it's in like first gear. you see how close it the center of because the the say feet per minute in the center is slower than it is on the outside.

So this is walking speed or like crawling speed I should say and this will be walking speed the further is out here. Now to get reverse. what you do is this wheel goes to the other side and it spins the axle the other direction and that would be going down like that. so now you can see it's on the other side of the disc and it's uh, going to spin the disc the other way.

Now'll give us reverse. it actually has two speeds, but essentially just picking two spots on that disc. I'm going to take a little bit of time, probably a little bit of brake clean or something and I'm going to go and just kind of clean all the the rubber crap off of that little scotchbrite should do it, but you'll get the idea. I'm going to just take it and get rid of all that excess rubber that's built up on there and again that's all burned off from the disc.

So at some point generally when the discs discs, when the discs are newer, it's more of a taper coming down. it's it's like a V coming down. you can see this one's getting fairly flat, but as long as it still drives okay like it's you got to put it in like, say, first or second gear and you could hold back on the handlebars and it spins the tires, it still has enough snot to do what it needs to do. Uh, don't worry about it if it's out here.

If it's out here, this is more for just transporting the machine. You would never really be be blowing, uh, snow with the disc all the way on at on that outside edge. Again, it's more for just like you're done at the end of the driveway, you're going back to the garage you put it in Top Gear and it just kind of, you know, moves itself up really quickly down the line. All right, let me go clean that up there we go that looks better.

Let's hit the lever that engages it which is that you see that disc is moving towards us and I got I Got plenty of bite on the drive disc so no adjustment needed there. The one thing that does need a little bit of love though that you can see the rust on the shaft right here. I'm going to put a light coating of grease on that, but I don't want to go much CU I Don't want anything to fling off of here onto here. This surface needs to be dry.

Once you get oil on here, it's screwed. The transmission is not going to work, it doesn't need much. Give her a little and we just we'll slide that disc over the other side. We'll hit the other side just enough to wet it.

Like I said, you don't want it glob down there chains look okay Again, the same thing. You got to be kind of cautious that you don't um, overdo it. and uh, you don't want the chains flinging like on a motorcycle. You don't care.

um, you know Al you're not oil on the back tire, but you can go a little bit more vigorous. but on this we're just going to kind of give it just enough to wet its whistle and the chains look pretty good. I'm going leave them alone cuz again. I don't want to contaminate that drive disc.

So thing we talked about was the play that's in the axle. You see all that in there and that what happens is here's you see the rust that's on the axle. well when the machine sits over the winter time, the summertime rather. and when you go to use it, rust forms and then you run it.

it eats the plastic. This is just fluid film like an under coating. I'm going to go shoot some of that in there. You see how far the other side's moving I May have to put that on the agenda.

We'll see as long as it doesn't skip a a tooth chain. but look at all the play that's in there. So again, I'm going to go grab that one probably from the outside of the wheel. cu the sprockets in the way.

As far as the drivetrain too, we're talking about shear pins up on the augur. That's a shear pin too. I Don't know if that's a bolt that somebody put in there or if that's an actual shear pin. Just the end of it looks a little weird and suspect like it was going around in hitting in.

Top Gear that was hitting that pulley right there. Yeah, see that. I think somebody put that bolt in there I'm going to take a whiz wheel I'm going to go cut the rest of that head off of there, but that was clunking around in that thing. Either that or somebody has a linkage too far adjusted.

That looks right? Hey, I Got an idea? Yeah, I'm going to take a a whiz wheel I'm going to go cut some of that off of there. It's rare that you would break this too. You'd really have to kind of screw it up. The front happens very popular, but uh, drivetrain? not so much.

Good offal swap. Uh, swap bushings from side to side is the other thing too. Help that side out so the chain doesn't want to skip. Might be okay.

for now, let's get rid of that. Mouse Nest Down in there and give that a bath. So those are the shoes. Skids, skis, whatever you want to call them.

And what's nice about these is as they wear out, you have the capacity of having another one on top. You can flip the whole thing over, but you think the chances are that's going to crack loose? I'm not giving it a very good chance. I'm give it pretty much zero. Let's go throw a wrench on it.

Yeah, they're going to snap so let's go throw some heat on those and uh, see if we uh, have a little bit better chance at it. and it's not like they you can put a wrench on the other side of them. What they called stove bolt. something like that might have to wait till it's red, but give a shot.

Sometimes the whole thing spins too or you get halfway out and it starts to spin because it's keyed. Yeah, we're going to go for it on this one. I'm trying like to pull outward on it it cuz it's got like a square shank on the other side and you if you were to push in then the whole thing would spin on you and no I'm not going to grab that with my fingers. All right, let's go tap that out of there I Show you what I'm talking about.

So that was like that. You see the little square shank on top of it and if you were to let it fall in, it'll just strip itself out. I'm going to do that and and do that to the other one. Hit them with a wire wheel so they go back together.

Put a little bit of grease on them cuz they are adjustable I'll get into that after I get it apart. we'll go through this one side the other side. I'll do off camera. I'm going throw a little bit of grease on these I clean these off on a wire wheel after I Threw them in water to cool them off and what was on there was Jam Nuts.

That's what was kind of oozing out of the center was like the plastic that was still on them keeps them from backing off so we're just going to flip that over and again. They're adjustable depending on what surface you're going to use it on. you know nice clean paved driveway. You can go right down to where you scraping on the bottom but if you have like a like a older driveway that's breaking up or a uh gravel driveway you would you would run them like that.

You you leave like an inch or two of snow behind so you're not picking up all the rocks and chucking them. I'm going to leave this one probably here. so we're going to run this one. I'm probably going to leave like, um, maybe we'll set up for like a/ qu inch or so.

so. I'm going to run these in just so it has some drag on it to hold it all right. So the both of them has been taken care of. Grab a shim.

Is this going to be? oh just right. This is an E in. I'm going to flip it up and let that blade on the back, touch that and then on each side. I'm going to tape them, tape them.

take them. just tap those shoes down so that they touch the ground and that'll be the Gap that is Left Behind when we're done, so we're just going to loosen them up. I'll do tap both sides down, tighten them up, and um, that'll lead how much Gap is behind. Like if you have a really good paved driveway.

you know, fresh, freshly paved driveway. you can go and have that edge scrape right on there and actually kind of get rid of the shoes. but if there's any kind of irregularities in your driveway ESP he starts to break it up. that thing will jam up on there so much it's ridiculous.

It like every little bump that gets in the way, it'll just stop the machine dead and you got to, kind of, you know, lift up on it, get up over it, and keep going. So even if it's a a decent Drive drive way I still like to keep at least that much if it was like a gravel driveway. I'd go with like um/ in or 3/4 in piece of wood underneath there and really shim them up high because it'll be spitting rocks out like crazy. That sounds like a plow like a plow and we'll just lock them down same as the other side.

Maybe we'll take a look at that um, that gear box into Center real quick. Sometimes they have oil. sometimes they have grease in them either either. It doesn't spin very, it's not working very hard.

but let's go pull a plug on that, see if there's anything in it. I've seen them so wore down with the augur. blades are touching the back will wear down too. All right, let's get that out.

We'll shove like a Q-tip in there, see if we get any fluid coming out of that let. see. if anything seems fairly wet, there's a gear right in front right here. Yeah, they're plowing outside.

Good. let's go down deep. I'm going to shoot some thick oil in there. Like some gear oil in it.

It probably has grease in it. Worst case, it may leak out here a little bit. It's not going to hurt anything I Rather have it more on the Wet Side than possibly being dry. Again, some have grease, most have grease in I should say and some have oil in them.

What's inside there? like I said up top is a worm gear spinning around and then here. U Bevel gear I think it's called so you can't take these and grab them and turn them. You know the play will move, but you can't turn them any further than that because again, it's a worm gear that's in here. But the opposite is true.

You could turn the worm gear and it will turn the bottom gear just it doesn't feed back the other direction. I think we saw earlier too the way when it was running. it was, um a little bent. This shaft is a little bent.

you can kind of see the gearbox mov around a little bit. it happens to him. There we go. so whatever was in there was pretty full and we didn't hurt anything.

All right I think um we don't really have too much more to do unless we get some parts. Some of prob say hey, it's got grease fittings on it. why don't you put grease in it? So between the top and the bottom, the inner shaft and the outer there is we'll try to put GRE we'll see if it takes it it. they are not spinning surfaces.

The only time that they will spin if it breaks a Shear a shear pin. If not, they're kind of locked together so the but the grease does help keep the rust from building up in them and that's really about it. It's not like it's a um a spot that PIV um spins against each other all the time. If you get lucky, you see some grease kind of sticking out of the end of there.

but I have a feeling they haven't been greased in a long time. I'm not going to go take them apart I'm not going to go bother chasing that I'm going to try throwing grease in the other end and uh, you know, hope for the best. but um, that's a a nightmare in its own. The whole system has to come out of the middle and uh, get the augers off each end and sand them, put them back together.

Um, they pretty much have a built-in Shear um, shear pin because you break the shear pin out I Don't think. um, generally you would be able to move them if they were free. You should be able to move them opposite of each other and you can't so this one's all locked up. I'm not going to get into that.

Uh, the only downfall about that is if you ever did hit something really hard, um, you you stand the chance of stripping out the gear in the middle, we'll try to throw some gear in there. Some lube in there. hey, what do you want? It was free. I'll hit that one too.

I went through and I function Check the shoot. the rotation and all that stuff seems to be good. A Little bit of lube here and there, but nothing really needed any kind of love as far as that's concerned. Let's go drop it on the ground and and we'll check the drive out.

and I'm going to basically put it in gear I'm going to hold the machine back and I should be able to spin the wheels, especially in the lower gears. we know what Electric start? Let's go try it. Old Start: we on run, we are on run good Cloud Truck's out there pushing snow around but I think we can go find something to go play with. Go give us some heavy stuff.

All right. Well it worked out pretty good. You see a couple of the things that I was talking about where I was trying to hit that heavy stuff that the snow was just plowed up on the bank that was off pavement. so it was kind of like locking into the like, the gravel and the the dirt under the ground.

so I had to kind of lift up on it and let it go forward. but if your whole property was like that, that's where you would kind of lift the whole uh setup up. uh, other than needing a dry belt and the two bushings for the wheels, even the wheels I might let go, not might now that they're greased, they really shouldn't wear that much more, but it definitely needs a drive belt. I think the thing was parked because gu it's kind of come back to me with a conversation of six months ago was it was okay to start with the pulse with the electric start, but if he had to shut it off or ran out of gas down the yard, he couldn't get it to pull start afterwards.

and I think what was happening was the valve clearance got so large that the decompression valve wasn't working anymore when we first did that compression test and the compression was really high. Well, to try to pull start something through that would get you pretty good. Um, so I have a feeling that's was what it was and it was kind of like on a verge of holding a valve open too long. even not holding open too long, holding the valve open too short.

I don't know, you know what? I'm getting at it. Uh, the compression was greater than what it should be. That's the whole reason why the the comp. the decompression valve is there so that it makes it easier to pull over and again it just ended up being a valve adjustment on it for seems to be pretty good.

I got to adjust the rotation of the shoot. it goes very far One Direction but not far enough the other way. I think it's it's off a couple of teeth on the ratchet that's up on the top there. That is no big deal, but everything else seems to be okay.

I Think the oil leak was the plugs were a little on the loose side so it was wet on both sides of it. Definitely need an oil change. Parts Where we put into it, we put an o-ring in a bolt for the cover. We welded the exhaust bracket and um, oil of course and was there anything else that we used? Not much.

just needed. Love? Really. So this a fairly good machine too. Like this would probably cost you yeah, pretty close to 2.

Grand Maybe on this machine you some, maybe a little more. Now things are going, but you know again, need some love. Um, it's going to stay here. that's what his job is.

There's a plow truck that, uh, plows the property, but as far as the walkways and stuff do need to be done with a snowblower, so this will be staying here for that purpose, right guys? with that, I'm going to go sign off I Thank You' all for hanging out with me! I Got a couple other snow related things. a little bit more fun than this to go work on. Uh, as long as the weather stays, win and we'll play with those in the near future. But for this one, we're done all right guys.

later.