this 50 year old mini bike was found in an old trailer all torn apart and missing parts, lets see what we can do to bring it back to life.

Hey guys and how's it going hey we're going to continue on this early 70s rupp mini bike that we dragged out of a it was like a shipping container on someone's property that it was a basket case. Let me tore it all apart and never put it back together, so we are in the process of putting it back together. On the previous video, we kind of figured out what we had and got into getting the drivetrain trying to get the drivetrain to function, which is what you see as far as the rear wheel. The the jack shaft the chain setup engine parts and we got that kind of squared away.

So we have that going and see. We got on the other side, threw a tire on the back, bought new tires for it, but, as you can see, we're just trying to scab stuff together and see what we have and what we don't have. So i ended up having to stop in the last video because we did not have a decent drive belt for it and we're trying to find a spring that was correct for the rear clutch tried making one out of. I think it was a seat spring for like a tractor, but it's just way too heavy.

Since then i went and did a little bit of shopping, and we have i'm not sure if they're the correct ones, but they are much more correct than we did have. We have a belt, i got another one coming. I think it might be a little bit skinnier from the old comic clutches compared to the modern ones and then the spring that should uh possibly take care of that clutch setup. And while i was contemplating on what to do for an engine in the drive setup, the original engine that came with it was the black briggs that is on there.

It's kind of beat up pull starts all messed up. We went to my stash and we grabbed this original briggs. Probably a three horse has the right: uh shaft set up for it for the front clutch, but it is not threaded in the center now that not that we can't thread it. I'm like oh yeah.

We got another one, let's go get that one, so i went back and grabbed that one that one is threaded, but it has a stepped shaft on it, so that clutch is not going to fit on that engine either. So between the three of them. We'll get one together, it just doesn't know it yet so, let's go get set up, let's get back in the wrenching and continue on this project and hopefully get the engine to run and spin. That back tire is my goal.

My guess is: we'll probably go with this one and we'll just draw parts off the other, but the problem with this one was trying to get the clutch set up to go fit on. That was really screwed up. We already cleaned it up with a wire wheel and all that so i'm gon na go take a little bit more time and probably take a file clean up the groove on the inside of it, and i don't know - maybe some emery will kind of polish. This up see if you can get this clutch set up to go on here, because this one also threaded so here's the center of that clutch.

You see the key. That's in there. It's not even trying. I took a file, i kind of cleaned up the leading edge.
I thought possibly somebody just whacked it with a hammer and a hammer and peened it over doesn't seem to be the case, though i don't think the width of it slightly off. If you go over, this is the other engine that we're going to use. It went right on on this one. Well, kinda right see the difference on that.

So, hopefully a little bit of cleaning up we'll get that one to go yeah. I don't think that was gon na work out for us just because of the fact that it's actually the depth of the key, that's screwing us up how far down that tongue is going yeah you can see the air gap is trying to make above it. So the diameter shaft is okay, it's just. How would we grind that in there? Oh, we could, but i think, we're better off, maybe trying to drill and tap the center of the other one that we worked with, there's not much there is there.

We thought they would have been the same foreign and a couple. Little drops of oil. I say we go risky, we need to get her off a clutch. Cracker up, the drill might have to go a little larger on the hole we got it.

Hopefully i think after we clean those threads out just needed a better bolt. That's all you guys got it now. We just need to polish our shaft up. Everybody likes a polish shift.

That's upside down nope! Had it right shiny, let's go see how the clutch fits on it. I don't know if that's supposed to be part of it and like lock together, but it doesn't just kind of pops in there now, but there's nothing there to hold it on the shaft. So i grabbed a couple of washers before just so that we bolt it together. Something's going across those two surfaces, there we go and then the other half we are missing is a bushing that goes on there.

We could probably get rid of one of those yeah because without it it's just yeah. The ring's gon na go pop off of it. Nothing's gon na be there to hold it together, and there will be that and then that gets a collar in the middle. I got ta go find it that the belt rides over when you're kind of idling kind of when you're idling and as you spin up.

This disc will walk out pinch on the belt and this is low speed and, as you get the belt travels further and further to the outside, the speed of the bike picks up and the pulley on the back does the opposite. It gets pulled in and shrinks down on the other side, we'll get that in a second. Let's go finish this up. It was right there yeah that rides on there as the belt goes over.

It gets something to slip on or stay still, while the clutch is spinning all right. So we need to get a longer bolt and a washer to hold all that assembly together and then i guess we can probably play with the other clutch and get the spring on it. Mount this motor get rid of the carburetor and the the uh exhaust, because we're not gon na use either one of those we're gon na come up with our own stuff. So anything i'm worried about is there's a little bit of a gap.
You know about that. Much in between where the end of the shaft sticks out and where the hub is, and i got i doubled up washers. I'm just afraid that, like over time, they're going to want to kind of kick in a little bit and then loosen up plus the pulley's. Constantly getting tension on one side and this side is always open.

The belt side has always got pressure, pushing it apart. So i'm just a little we'll just keep an eye on that. If that wants to back off on us, that's my only concern at the moment. Let's go get the muffler off and the gas tank out of the way it's already loose.

It says governor on it too. I'm not gon na use it. I think we're just gon na hook a throttle directly up to a carburetor governor is kind of like the cruise control in your car. You set it so you set your car at 60 and you want to just cruise at that speed and the car will give it the gas as it needs to that's kind of like what a governor does wants to maintain an rpm, no matter what the load Is on it so as you're going up a hill, it's going to give it more gas, maintain 60.

going down the hill, it's going to let off the gas and still maintain 60. there. We got a little kill wire. That is when you go off the gas.

All the way, how's that, on there you let off the gas all the way it grounds out the coil. That's out. Let's go get a punch in a chisel, we'll try to tap that collar off of there. It's actually kind of okay.

If it doesn't come off because we'll just we'll cut it right there and we'll attach that other muffler to it, let's see if it'll come out, though that's just a locking collar, hopefully it'll twist, maybe maybe not i'm gon na go grab a pair of channel locks. Put it right there for good measure there we go save that for another project. I think it's just a piece of uh pipe thread. You usually come out of there all right now that kill wire's off there.

Let's see if we got spark on this one, i don't think we had before, but the throttle may have just been off we're gon na go yank that pull starter apart anyway, but get to the let's just see we get come on now get on there. Now. Still, no spark, let's get that pull start off and take a look at the points should just be three bolts holding it. So this is the uh governor air vein and it moves the engine's air cool fan down here.

Air comes in here comes up and exits across the cylinder head, so as the flow of air changes, it moves this uh governor and that, in turn, is tied to the throttle and just kind of compensates the throttle to try to maintain a certain airflow, which is Also, a certain rpm: that's how they work so we're going to not use any of that. I'm not concerned about it we're going to pop that out, but we need to get down to the pull start. So we got to get the pull starter part which has got four screws on it, pull start the magneto four screws on it. We're gon na try to get this magneto off to get to the uh points that are behind it, because i have a feeling they're corroded up.
Let's go four screws off that held the fan on the screen on rather - and this is essentially it's just a big nut with a one-way clutch in it for the pull start. So hopefully we can just undo that there's a set of ball bearings inside here as this spins they excel to the outside and allows it to ratchet in one direction, but not in the other direction. When you kind of pull start all right, a little love tap should do it and then, under that cover right, there is going to be a condenser and a set of points don't want to lose our key. Neither let's go take a peek at them.

Generally, the tips of them just get kind of corroded. They look really clean, though no matter what we got enough parts to fix it, so the other engine already has spark. Let's get you close in, let's go see, i see some kind of like hair going across them. Let's go make sure they're closing they close.

They do look super clean though it could be a bad coil too. So here's the wires that come in you got one wire that runs up to the coil and then up to the plug, and then this was the kill wire again. Sometimes, if that's grounded it'll get you it all looks original. I don't think anybody's ever i don't know, i don't know about that.

Buddy, i'm going to go just quickly, we'll go run something over that surface. I don't have my meter with me. Usually i put a meter across you could tell it's got to open or closed circuit, but we'll file that real, quick and see. If we can get contact, i feel like you have to grind them to death you're just trying to get any coating.

That's on them. Often just make sure that they close the gap looks about right too. I think it's supposed to be 20. somewhere between 16 and 20.

I'd say: let's go pop, that on real, quick, we'll give her a spin and we'll make sure i don't see anything going on there. We're gon na clean this off with a wire wheel, looks like it's been rubbing. I see rub marks on it and we're looking right there see if we can spin it fast enough. There we go she's back awesome got spock.

Let's get rid of this, we're not going to use it. It's just more. It's going to be a pain, get in the way i'm going to grab a little pair of pliers. Look at these tabs down.

It's really not much to it. Some of the other ones. Some other engines they're a little bit more elaborate, they're internal. Not on this one, though, someone's having a party there's fireworks in the background, oh yeah, yeah off with that uh the kill wire we'll leave that we might hook that up to a kill, switch.

Let's go. Let's go kind of tuck that and i guess we could put the pull starter the rest of the way back together, i'm going to tighten that down a little bit and put the pull start back on. We actually set this motor on the uh bike and we'll set the belt set up on we'll get that where, where they want to be, we can start thinking how we want to uh fabricate the intake manifold. We got ta actually come up with a car too.
In the exhaust, let's pull that dust out first, but first i got ta, throw a little bit of gas down there see what she does right. She'll give us a little bit of fire. The clutch came out too. Did you see it? If your angle was good? Nice ripped out my screw what that clutch held up on the on the bushing in the center doesn't quite look like.

It went back all the way. No, the bushing's free looks like that should be. I don't know if we should pop that off kind of take that apart a little bit, give her a quick little look make sure the pieces behind here are doing what they're supposed to be doing just seems like it that'll just cycle a couple times, not sure. Ah, let's just fire it up again, it's more fun that way right, we'll keep an eyeball on it.

I think we already lost the screw in the back holding the engine down, so i throw it on the floor, so be it just don't catch it by the spark plug all right. It looks decent. It looks like, like i said, ah yeah, see that last little bit there that's what i was concerned about, not that we can't figure it out and free it up right. I would think when you have a belt on it too.

The belt's gon na help try to push it back out. Third time's a charm, yes, no have a feeling we're going to be playing with that a little bit later. So the next thing was that the back clutch and the spring that we had on there, which just fell out of key yeah and that okay, that's what i was trying to make. But it was just way too heavy and i'm guessing.

This may be what we need: it's a little hole for that to fall into, maybe just like that right and that puts tension how's that gon na line up with here just drop into one of them. I guess yeah, so we're gon na go put that set up on there and that should be back half of the clutch once i get the key in it, so i'm gon na go struggle with that. You guys don't need to see see that do you looks pretty good i'll, bring you back in a second he's trying to put the wrong half on, so that has a little spot right there. It looks like for to lock into here.

We go that's more like it, but it's got to get close to the ramps that feels pretty good. Then this goes on get in there with the key. You know. I'm gon na launch this whole assembly right across the room.

Huh work with me. Welcome me: goose. Don't let me get the good hammer get in there here. We go probably a good place for our washer huh.

All right. Take a look at the backside of that yeah. That looks better i'm better than that come on. I tried and again this one.

This is going to try to hold the belt all the way to the outer position and then, as the front one squeezes in as it revs up. It wants to pull the belt to the outside, and this one is just reacts to whatever tension that belt in uh is pulling and it drops down into this pulley, so they kind of fight each other and the gear ratio changes as the front. One goes from small to large. The back.
One goes from large to small spinning the back one faster and spinning the back tire faster, as it's allowed all right to get the motor on there and i i still think i have the wrong belt, but uh. Let's go see if we can work with what we got this one. This, i think, is supposed to be 5 8. The older ones and the newer ones are three quarters and i have a three-quarter belt.

I we think let's go plop, two bolts and caddy corner of each other missing one there. It is the other thing too, as you can see, our alignment is this way. Hopefully we're uh we're not even close whoops. We got something wrong.

I don't think that's going to work for us either that one's got to go in a ton, but this assembly's got to go this way. Hmm was there any difference with that other engine? I didn't think so. Let's go look yeah, i'm pretty sure they're. Exactly the same, the bolt holes look, the same case looks the same.

I know we have that one washer, that's in there do you think this assembly needs to get spun around like that. Can we do that? Would that hurt anything? Then you wouldn't need the washer right. Maybe i just have it on there wrong. Let's go spin that around see if that'll work, what fun would it be if everything went right, the first time right, hmm, let's go! Give that a couple of love.

Taps pardon me come through, so we can get rid of that. Hmm, it's going to have to come up with some kind of spacer, though, because that's it's already hit the bolts. Actually we could take those off. This was what was on here a it was a metal guard on here for a belt.

Let's just go eyeball that real, quick and see if that did anything for us, so this would now be the outer all right, so that would be the outer and then, when you bolt it, you can put a big washer on it. That would hold it. That's looking much more promising: let's go plop that on there real quick, let's go through, let's just go: throw something in there to hold it real, quick and if they line up, which i think it's gon na yeah, we could fix the rest of it. I'd definitely say that was looking more promising, so a bolt or two in it get to claim its spot now.

It looks like it's too far the other way, but we could shim it all right. Well, we want see the thing what's. Weird is why i was kind of going the other direction. Maybe no, i can't have the back one wrong is this? Is the movable part on this one, but this is the movable part on this one? You would think they would kind of be on the same side, so the belt doesn't change angles.

Hmm, i don't know, let's go look uh, there's a clutch set up on the beaver, upstairs little amphibious vehicle. I put together, it's a it's a modern one. It's not! This older style, one, let's just go, see how they're set up real, quick and back to my beaver, beaver people, people my beaver. Thank you.
What do we got yeah, so that's on the outside, so both of them are on the outside of that one which makes sense. You know they move together. Equally, hmm, let's go take a look on that back clutch see if we can flip that over. I don't.

I don't think so, though i think that's the way it was supposed to be. I never took it off, but you know it's not saying anything's wrong. Yeah, hmm, i don't know we could try. We could try taking this back apart again, i don't think so.

I don't think that's gon na i have a feeling this has a shoulder on it that holds it. Let's take it apart again, we'll see if this slides off of here and we're going to flip the whole thing over. I could probably google the topic real, quick and take a picture what they got, because it's not like it's lined. Well, i like it, it's not like it's lined up close.

You just look at that surface in that one. With that, it's going to push the belt's going to go way over here is that right and then this one will okay. So this is going to want when it rides up the belt's going to come over this direction when this spins. This pulley is also going to go that direction.

I don't know, i think, maybe we should just kind of move forward with what we got a couple of you yelling at me. Right now. I can't hear you yeah: let's go throw a belt on me, real, quick and just see if there's any chance of working nope that sucks it's not gon na work. First yeah! So, hmm, i'm going to google real, quick, uh, rupp mini bike clutches and see what pictures come up see if you can see anything that will help us make sense.

So what i think is happening is the back clutch is the original one and the front one is a later addition. I think this is called a 20 and this one is called the 30. So it's a mismatch of parts and that's why it's not going to work, but it does look like the outer is what moves on this and then the inner is what moves on the other. So maybe we can kind of play around with it.

I wish i had that other belt coming the one that's the 5 8, but maybe we can make this one work uh, maybe i'll just move that engine around. What do we need to do so? This has to come further away. We can fix that with putting a couple of shims behind it and then that's a lot, though let me free the engine up i'll move it over. I wonder if it'll line up to those holes right there instead of the sliding ones, maybe somebody even drilled them for just such an occasion, so that dropped that in it actually doesn't look terrible.

It's not a little too far. The other way i'm gon na go. Take it apart, we'll get rid of these these little spacers that are in here and get these bolts out and get see if we can close up this gap a little bit more and if that will line up for us it's better, it's definitely better, and it Also has a little bit of play in the belt too. You can't have it so it's right, taut down against the pushing that's in there, it'll cook it again.
I think this is a little too fat for where it would normally sit. I think these would come together and rest and just maintain a position where this belt's so fat. It still wants to. You know, i don't know if you can turn it it's going to want to jump up out of that groove more and if you can see it or not, i'll show you yeah, so this belt's kind of fat.

So that's where it wants to rest. Just like that, it won't it's not going to stop until it tries being that fat out and it's going to be pulling on that front. Pulley yeah. Unfortunately, i think we're stuck until the other belt shows up.

I don't know if i want to invest any more time trying to set it up to something that may not work for us. I think the skinnier boat will still work in the front. You know it's just it'll take another second for it to squeeze in that much tighter on that belt. What a mismatch of crap huh! I can look real, quick and see if i have any kind of belt that we can use to mock up.

I don't think so now this belt's too long, but it's the 5 8 belt. You see how it sits. Even in the groove, that's the one i got coming how's that going to fit up on there. I actually think that one will be okay, because you know worst case we could slot.

We can slot them and make it do the same thing. This one did or just to tweak the belt a little bit. You would think all the junk i collect wait for it. I would have something, but i don't would be right in this area right here on the shorter ones.

Well, none of those are going to work for us so not saying that we can't move forward with something else right. So let's go work on setting up the carburetor, making a manifold for that and we'll wait for the belt to come in and we'll chase it. We got you know his front wheel, he can go, do we'll fix up a bunch of other stuff and we'll just keep moving forward one way or another that engine is going to drive that pulley. It just doesn't know it yet.

So, let's get that thrown back on there, we'll probably use the holes that were closer to what we needed bolt it down and we'll start trying to make a manifold for it. Let's talk about that noise in the background, that is the heat because it is winter. So this is the setup that was on one of these small engines and, of course, that's how it was set up, and this carb could actually run this way. This is one of the diaphragm carburetors.

It doesn't have a float ball on it kind of can run any direction with that diaphragm. I'm not convinced that that's going to be any good and if i can get a carburetor kit for that, so i would like to try to set up a manifold that kind of comes straight out, and then we, if we have a bad carburetor, we just switch Over to something else, but i think we maybe go with that for our preliminary - let's just go pop, we'll get rid of the air cleaner, we'll pop the diaphragm out, we'll take a look at it see if it's any good. I also like this one too, because it's got a separate air fuel mix, so we can kind of tweak it a little bit for some of the modern carburetors. It's just preset.
It's down about 19 degrees outside look at that picking my blood up for winter still used to summer. I think we're going to 67 degrees in like three days now. Unfortunately, this the car got a diaphragm in it, and the diaphragm is hardened up over time. If you can't get a replacement, it kind of screwed, so hopefully we take this apart and it's pliable.

It's not pliable! I'm gon na go look over my stash. I seem to remember getting a carb kit for something similar to this. I'm not gon na hold my breath, it's not a good sign, but it doesn't even want to come apart. There you go so i just stabbed it.

It's got a rust sitting in it does move a little damn. It sort of pays that long fingernail there we go so this kind of takes place of the float ball. It meters, how much fuel is in there, it's pretty stiff. That needs to be able to move back and forth fairly pliable and it and turn that's kind of like you oops.

That's like your needle and seat right there that setup. It was stuck for a second, but it's moving. Now i mean we could try it. Let's go get the screws out, that was a half one one and a half.

So one and three quarters that one that's got a ton of rust on it and this one forgot to count we'll figure it out and they'll have a little bit of packing in there it'll be a washer and like an o-ring, i'm going to leave them alone. For now real quick, i'm going to go, look at my stash and see. If i have one of these, we have one of these we're golden. If not, it's going to be questionable whether this is going to run for us yeah, not very good part of my stash.

I thought one of these i may have bought like extras of them these pop right out. What's that right, there looks a little big, though, doesn't it that might be a carp kit for it in stock? Usually what i try to do is if i need one, i order two at least two. While i'm doing it did something. Actually, i shouldn't say anything: no they're the same size.

This would tell wouldn't it bolt holes lined up those holes line up the plate on the back's a little different, but that's okay. I think we'll be okay with that see how much see how flimsy that is? You see how not flimsy that is awesome and i think we got all the little bits. There's the needle and seat i was talking about. We got the o-rings for the seals as long as they don't damage it.

I'm going to go. Take the carb the rest of the way apart, we'll take the body we'll throw it into carb cleaner, we'll pop these out, i'm going to leave the welch plugs in there, we'll just get rid of the rest of the crap. That's on there. I think we might be able to have an operating carburetor.
We can make a manifold too. While this is uh doing its thing, we can uh probably take where the gaskets go. That's all we need right is the gaskets yeah, so this gasket and this gasket, those are the two mating surfaces we have. We can make some steel flanges and try to weld a piece of pipe between them.

That's the needle and seat coming out of it. It's got a spring that pulls. It up definitely got some corrosion going on that too, oh rings petrified come out in three yeah yeah pieces. The other one looks like somebody hammered the crap out of the choke plate too.

It's all bent up. I might just leave that alone. It's functioning, maybe somebody went too far that way and crushed it, the car's in the ultrasonic cleaner. We need a flange like that too bad.

This wasn't steel. We just cut cut it right off and make what we want right and a flange like that. I seem to remember making something for uh an oxygen sensor. I made a couple of flanges um that i'm also thinking of a vw exhaust the heat risers, look very close to that.

I'm gon na go poke around a little bit see if we can find something that's already made, instead of us having to try to fabricate one, and they would look something like that. I feel like this is going to be. Oh wait a minute. They're the same! That might that might work yeah.

I made these up for all lawful purposes, honest. Actually, if that gasket fits on those. What about the other side that one's slotted we can, because we need that one too right that one's much smaller we got one you can hack. One of them off of there, let's go, take a quick look like i said that the vw stuff, so we're going to want one of these and see if that flange for vw fits.

It would look something like that problem is the holes are offset too, though. That's pretty close, i'm not going to cut this one up this one's too good, see if we can find one hunting in my stash, i'm looking at this. I wonder if we could steal the that's a little small see if we can find a piece of pipe. It's got a curve in it.

We can cut the section out that we need to make the angle while we're shopping, we'll keep an eye out for that. I don't want to take a good one, but one of them's junk. So with these, these are vw. This is what's called the heat riser heat comes up through here, and it keeps the intake manifold from freezing.

You can blow air through them. They're good yeah that one's good, i'm not gon na, kill that one the exhaust goes through them, though, so they do clog up and kind of die. Hmm, because the other side is the muffler side too, which is going to be this piece that part right. There is the same thing i don't want to kill a good muffler.
Neither you know that's what i get for throwing rusty, crapped out stuff out i'll, find something thrill the hunt you ever get the feeling. I've done this before yeah, it's a little a tad fat. That's like an eight horse. I was hoping i'd find a hunk of steel manifold connected to one of them, so the vw engine that we fired up that had really crappy cylinders, has a intake manifold on it, but the preheat is rotted right through right there.

So let's go cut that side off and we'll use that one start actually cut both sides off of that. You see the artery, how much it's closing up a little cholesterol build up. There huh looks like the makings of a intake manifold. For me, i'm gon na need the carb, though maybe we'll finish, cleaning the carb up put that back together and then we'll build from there.

It started at 30 minutes. It's not really up there that we're like 22 minutes in, i think we'll go with it. Quiet, usually i like to go longer than that, but not today, cleaned out the carb and going through the parts. This is that new needle and seat - here's, the old one.

You see how much further the pin sticks out of that one. Compared to this one. This one is me uh me is neat one more time missing. The seat is like a little nylon seat that the needle pressed against yeah.

It is not in there. I looked in the kit. I didn't think i dropped it looked around and i don't have it look at the old one you can see. It looks like there's one in there.

Doesn't that hole look much bigger than that hole like something else should be in there and that would put it in the right location uh, so i'm like well now. What do we do? We could probably either use the old one over and try to clean it up where i went looking back again, i found another kit and this one has not been opened. The other one, i think was open, has a zipper on the top. This one's got the bag seal on top.

So let's quickly go look at this one and see what this one uses and see. Let's get the same large hole there. It is right there a little green, so i may have stolen it out of that kit. For another machine i don't know, but we have one crisis averted yeah.

Sometimes certain machines definitely put up more of a fight than others. That's why i like try to get them when they're complete, even if they're all busted up and rotted and shot. At least you know what was there? You have something to go by where you get something like this, where it's a bunch of the parts are missing and swapped over you don't so that seal has to go in there and the best thing to do that with is a drill bit the back of A drill bit find the one that's close enough to it. You push that down in there and seat it and the other thing too and the other one the spring, the other kit, the spring was smaller.
Let's see if this stuff matches up yeah this one's more accurate, i think to what we need to replace it with compared to the other one all right. So i'm going to take a few minutes, we'll put that back together, there's really not much to it. It's essentially putting that seat back in the center of putting the two set screws on it, putting that back on the top of it with the four screws. I know people are going to ask so the groove goes in, so that the needle is going to rest against this side of it.

It's the smooth side and, like i said, you're, going to take a a drill bit works. You get one. That's close. I have a uh a pick that has a really close.

I want to lose this one. Let's get it started, i'm just going to push that down until it seats and then that new needle can rest against that and should have a stick out a little bit more than that might not be down all the way. It is as long as that. Diaphragm can push on that to open it.

This should be fine, yeah, okay, we're going to touch it. I was looking at the other one where's, the other one, much more stick out that one's got yeah. Unfortunately, that setup is not going to work for us, because the needle does not protrude far enough out to ever get pushed off at stop and i'm looking at the two of them and that one's definitely got a little bit more room to it. So i think we're gon na end up cleaning this one up and this one goes through yeah and that's able to open and close, don't know.

But i don't think the other setup was gon na work for us at all, not quite sure what was going on there. All those pieces were in the same package. You would think that it would go together and she would protrude, but she did not protrude, don't lose parts i'll launch. It probably should have put that on first time and where were we that's more like it? I gave it about a 50 success rate that that it's gon na do what it needs to do.

At least it opens and closes before you couldn't even push down on this. This is how it came out, so i'm putting it back together with this orientation that may or may not be correct. Somebody could have been in there before us and just like totally screwed it up and parts are not laying right that it's supposed to flip over the other way and that little tab could fit down in between. I don't know the answer to that, but what i do know the answer to is: i need to wash that and then we're going to set that back on screw her in so i i do know they've.

They stack the gasket, sometimes on one side and sometimes on the other, and i don't quite know why i'm sure it's for shimming and how much uh fuel gets let into there, and also. This is more of like a very common on like a two-stroke setup, and again it can kind of run in any position is, is what its benefit is, whether this is going to work for us on this four stroke. I don't know i i seem to remember these getting used on four strokes and again, if this was already on one of these engines that we got so we're going to move forward with it. It's definitely been hacked together.
You can see somebody kind of raised something kind of linkage to there the flange setup on it is the same as you would find on a regular float ball carburetor. So if this does not work for us, then we'll go to just a regular float, carb and uh again, the flange will be the same, so we'll be able to mount everything to it. But i want to give this one a shot. So that's the carbon.

That's built up, and that is the flange that essentially is going to be mating to to that. So we want roughly the bore to maintain that, or else we're going to choke off. How much is there? So, let's see if we can get this flange itself opened up, that's how much carbon was on there, we'll slice off the rest of the plumbing. That's on there.

We got a ways to go. Yet. Let's pick up the speed, i think my battery's dead yep. I don't have gaskets on them yet, but just have them bolted on.

So we need to get a piece of pipe to make that carb sit right about there, something clear. Actually it will come back a little bit, we'll give the exhaust a little bit of room. Let's um, because you can even kick it on an angle if you have to too, let's go see if we can find a piece of pipe that'll fit in there, we'll put that in its location, just to claim its spot, not that we're not going to heat Up and bend it and change it anyway, but let's just let it let's just do that. It's like the only piece i have, and i can run that in there yeah we can.

We can cut that and change the angle, but let that clean its spot. Let's go on the other side with the carburetor and again i want to leave room if we're going to go with the one of the other carbs i'd like to try to get it right about right about there. I think your leg would be out of the way we put an air cleaner on it. You know we claim the space behind it.

I think what we got that has a bend, maybe a bicycle handlebar we can cut like the section out of that part about the right diameter too right. Let me go see what he got we'll check here. First is this is like the the land of the lost that might maybe you can use that band right there and more? What's that that's gon na look that might be on the large side. That might do it see if we could find something - something maybe right in between those two.

If not we'll go back for that, that red could like upstairs to where some scrap bicycles are. I don't see anything else over here, see anything what's that right is that the other end of what we were looking at and there's a flange that we were remember we're looking for a plan, here's one on a muffler, let's grab yeah, that's the other end of The hand that handlebar, let's go see if that's gon na that might work, because i got ta open up that hole a little bit more, yet it's still a little shy of it uh. This is, i think, harley handlebars and then there's so there's two different sizes. I think one seven eighths and one's three-quarters, i'm guessing at that wow that one hurt that was thick too all right, so we'll go with this and we're quickly going to look upstairs see if there's any uh bicycle, maybe a little bit thinner bicycle junk! That's not bad right there right on top too.
Do i want to cut up a good set of handlebars. Some of you say: that's is that's a good set of handlebars yeah. These are a little smaller again, the motorcycle ones. These are bicycle ones.

This is more. The size we need, i think, actually we just kind of like eyeball it. We know we're coming out like that right, so maybe we'll nick it. We can always shorten it up later, we'll cut it there and we're gon na want it.

So it's level and on the angle out, i would say all right there and we just go a little further out again. If we need to, we can shorten it up so harder to go the other way. You agree because we could rotate it to get the the correct angle that we want so we'll cut this one off, we'll cut this one proud and then we'll sneak up on it all right. So if we went, i would say, that's almost three: can we flip it around? Will it do anything worse? It looks like it gets away from the exhaust a little further.

I think that's going to get away the pull start, though, right by the time it's got an air cleaner on it and it's getting kind of far away. You can shorten her up quite a bit too. You don't want to go too long on the it intake. Your torque curve and your horsepower - i say we go with that.

The angle is good, but i think we need to get rid of about well that much of it that'll get us that much closer in. I think that should be about right all right, so we will like that probably go a little shorter huh. You spin it around. Does that help us actually kind of like that, a little bit better again that pulse plus, you know when your legs on coming off the seat in this area with the air cleaner, i think we can even afford to maybe knock it's going to knock about that.

Much more we'll just use the bend, so that's that third time's, the charm. We are third fourth and we're going to want that so that the carb is sitting straight. I wonder if we should probably weld it to the carb flange. First then, we'll just rotate it to where it's level right about.

There looks good huh. Let's give a quick a couple of quick witness marshall give it where they were yeah. How good are we on that? One kind of crappy yeah so we'll do our best to center that one we'll get a couple attacks on it and then we'll bring it back over to the bike. We'll attack it on the bike.

If we don't like it, we'll pop it off and we'll try, it again looks like it's a hair like that, trying to see how i am centered on that flange. I think i could tweak her a little bit too. You know all the carburetor. Actually, tweaks got some room in it good, so enough of room to get it yeah, that's a level i got ta bolt it up couple of gaskets in there again, still not sure if that car is gon na work or not.
But i think now is a good time: let's go get a fuel supply hooked up to the input and give her a couple of tugs, see if she'll go on that and that's our setup for now anyway, i'm going to give it a little extra idle speed. Then we can back it off from there and see. If anything happens, the pulsar sounds horrible. Let's give her a little bit of a prime.

I think what happens is there's a few one. On a two stroke, it's got like a pulse that kicks back and that's probably what fires that diaphragm get in there get if it just runs and dies fire more fire. So it's shaking this up the dust. The noise was the clutch i for we forgot to deal with the uh, the clutch that was rubbing on the bolts.

That's what all that racket was that'll run on that carb, though that's a good sign. It definitely loosened up the uh. The bolt on that see that we were talking about, i think, i'm going to miss the shot there, a little bit sorry about that. We can just get rid of the clutch for now yeah.

I was rubbing on them. Let's get rid of that for now, because that's not going to be able to tighten up against those. Let's get the bolts in the motor and crank down real good. So i'll wait for the engine to fall completely off, but i was going to let it happen.

I'm like well wait a minute. The fuel line's connected to it and that's really gon na make a mess all right. Let's go fire it up again and then we're gon na try and dial in that air fuel mix. It was shaking so bad.

It was hard to even kind of hold on to so uh. Let's give her another shot iron hole, so i don't know if we can get the idle down low enough. I do know that throttle plate was a little beat up which wasn't hitting anything. I think we can get it it's good right now, we're not even on it.

The screws backed out so far might be having a fuel delivery issue too a bit of air in that line. I think we can get it. I should probably throw the now is that gon na be worse i'll, be trying to dial them in where's that muffler. We just shove that right on there for now - and i might direct a little bit of the heat away from us, try it again see what it sounds like too fire up for me, the black smoke that came out of it.

That sounds better yeah. I think the idle circus can be a little on the screwy side, i'm not sure which one's the higher the low i'm going to go play with them. A little bit see if we can dial in an idle and if not maybe we'll switch over to one of the other carbs and see how that does i lit myself up that'll wake you up, i don't know the other thing too. Is i want to take a little bit of sealer and kind of seal around these right here? I might have a slight intake leak and it might have a slight intake leak on these gaskets right here.
Yeah i just threw whatever i had in on them. It's close, but i wonder if we might have a little bit better luck with just like a regular snowblower carburetor. Let me go try one of those. I mean that's what i mean by a snowblower carb, very common one.

Let's go: try putting that one on there again. The problem with this is it doesn't have any air fuel mixers on the old ones did, but this one doesn't. So, let's see if this does anything for us laughs, none of them like to idle down very well, though i think i got an intake, let's uh spray it down with something there you go yeah. We definitely got an antiquity.

So that's what i got ta go deal with. That's why it's not idling! Well uh! I don't know. Maybe that carbide even seems to suit us a little bit better. It's a little large for this engine.

That's made for like an eight horse, there's only three. So it may have an issue where it bogs a little bit. I don't know: well i'm waiting on a belt and again we'll take those intakes apart i'll make some good gaskets up for them, so the ones i shave the hard ones i shaved off with a razor blade, and then we can get up with setting up once. We get that belt in where the engine needs to be comparatively and how that clutch gets set up and we got ourself a belt.

This is a 5 8 wide belt. This is the one that should uh normally be on the bike when it was new back in 1970s and it looks like it has enough room for the front clutch pulley to go fit around and we still have some adjustment with the engine. So let's continue on. Unless you can get this thing buttoned up and get that back tire to spin from firing up the motor and for the first thing, what we're going to do is we'll get rid of these two bolts, because the clutch is kind of running into it.

There's studs or spacers behind it that have these two sticking out too far. Let's get those out of there try to find some shorter bolts and get that hardware sucked in yeah they're too long and one good thing about having several engines. Those look like they'll do. Just fine we'll throw these back in their place.

I think the biggest thing is now is left to right. It looks like it clears everything, just go, throw it together and we'll see how we line up. I think the engine is going to have to come towards us somewhat though how's the tension. Look too.

We could probably go forward a little bit on that engine. Also, we just need enough of that when it's idling it doesn't want to try to drive, drive the belt. That's in all the way it's just mocked up. I think we got a bolt or two sticking in the fixed factory position.

I just kind of want to see it really doesn't. Look too bad. My only concern is again the clutch they're not a match set. So when this one goes to shrink up, this one is going to move this way.
This one is going to move the back. One is going to move this way, so i think the belt might rack on us a little bit. I guess the best thing we just fire it up and see what it does. I don't know what else we can do to kind of get around it.

We could flip that front clutch around, so this point is going to stay the same fixed and this point is going to stay fixed. Well, what happens when the belt moves? We shall see all right. Let's go get some gas going to it, we'll fire it up again, get that back tire to stop so run out of gas. Come on of course.

Now it works right. I think it's screwing with me, give it a little bit of choke that worked out. Well, i guess we should have checked to make sure the nut was tight on the back huh. Well, hopefully, we go find all those pieces.

It looked. Okay, i need i was trying to get a streaked shot down on. I want to see how the belt tracked. One way or another, but it looked like it - went up in the top gear fairly decent.

I'm going to go, get all my pieces back see if we can find them all found everything but the key, but i got more of those take that. Well, i think we just wing it with the belt like it is, and we move on to trying to get it to run a little bit better. Then we'll cinch down the engine, the intake manifold, the gaskets - are leaking real bad on it. So i'm going to go around we'll pop them off, make up some gaskets for them and try to reseal that back up that way should just kind of idle and do what it's supposed to do in rev.

It's all really takes a piece of gasket paper and a ball peen hammer and you use the round part of the ball beam hammer to make the line cut all the way around so and you get one perfectly cut gasket when you're done. Let's pop out the little holes, that's actually some sticky back if you wanted to stick it to it, but if you're good, if you're not trying to dance around too much - and you can hold it just walk your hand around it like i did not let it Kind of shift around on you you'll be able to get it without that one more to do on the other side, i think we're good. Oh, i got that original two-stroke carburetor back on there. Now that i did the intake manifold, let's go see if that performs any better now, if not we'll go with that other one, but i want to give this one a shot: the choke's on big fine line where it'll run on the high side.

I think next is fixing the pull start all right. That's the high side's gon na back out on the low side. It's in too far just go with something like that. So we'll do a burnout.

Well, i know a lot better. That tire is so stickier. She wants to stick to the bench it literally in 10 seconds did that when we get the nubs off right, maybe the other cardboard seems uh sounds like a run, ran a little bit better, probably going to go, swap that one out. I think that might be our better bet.
I could dial it in. It's close. We still don't have an air cleaner on it, so you have to kind of dial it in with that also, but uh i'm gon na go swap over the other one.

By Mustie

17 thoughts on “Trashed rupp mini bike, will it run? pt2”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Cameron Chrestman says:

    Just had to re subscribe been watching you for years and all of the sudden I'm not subscribed anymore

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars leemer1 says:

    Another Mustie moment where I wanted to yell out the clutch is backwards. But he figured it out. I think he does this to us sometimes on purpose to keep us in check.

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars paulg says:

    Mustie1…Where do you keep all your toys??? I asked you one time to make a "Where are they now" video and back then you said you still have most if not all of them. Are you trying to win at life??? You know the saying he who dies with the most toys wins??? You have got to be in the running.

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Texas Railroad Hunter William Hall says:

    Mustie1, just make the videos long enough to tell the story. Don’t worry about them being too short or too long. Big projects can be broken up into parts. Your videos are always interesting and well edited. You don’t need stock music. We are entertained and educated by your knowledge. Loved the new trailer tricking out and love the Rupp rebuild. Heck I even love you working on snowblowers and I don’t even have use for on in Southeast Texas.

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jose rocha says:

    I love this channel and Mustie , the only channel where we feel like we are in person with him in his shop just by the way he talks to us .. Amazing content 👌👌

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Chuck Small says:

    That second carb in your video is basicly the same carb i am using on my 3hp Briggs, but mine has the mixture adjustment on the bottom. Mine was off a Tecumseh H35 engine and is far better than the Briggs carb. I have been building intake manifolds using brass plate for the flanges that I bought on eBay and copper tubing I bought at Ace Hardware and then I silver soldered it together. Between the intake and block I used 3 insulating gaskets about a 1/8 inch thick each to keep the carb and soldered joints from overheating. It has worked good for about 1-1/2 years now.

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars whistlindixiesmallengine says:

    You can buy that whole new Tecumseh diaphragm carb for less than 15 bucks on Amazon if nothing at all you can use the diaphragms

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Andrew H. Cann says:

    Excellent video Mustie 1 🙂 like Snowblower carb better on low also high idles to and plus remember my Auto Mechanics plus Small engines shop teacher in High School said if see belts or chains on low idles 1/8 slack also light dragging also high idles complete stretch out straight you got made right on carb settings! Plus Snowmobile & Rotteiler does on belt same too ! Low RPM should be 450 to 650 and high RPM be 2000 to 2800 depending on hp also carb is too for mixture light blue white colors tint to clear too on 2 or 4 cycle motors on low idle and high RPM idles clear with heat too! Hope that helps out you Mustie 🙂 and everyone!

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Terry Robinson says:

    Great video mustie. I have a chain above my table to hang the iv drip system. It can be adjusted for any height.

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Shane says:

    "Someone's having a party fireworks going off" yeah apparently packers are playing in town… boom boom going off just after you said it XD

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars ludditeneanderthal says:

    Harley ran Tillotson carbs for a few years late 60s to early 70s, so yeah, a tilly can run on a 4 stroke, lol. Harley bars are 1 inch od, metric bikes are traditionally 7/8, though their modern hog clones tend to run 1 inchers too. As for your belt, both walking pulley halves move the same way (to the right), so your tensioned alignment should maintain reasonably similar geometry. Great rehab vid, loved the rubber flour production, lol

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Lord Leamington says:

    That carb looks just like the one from a Toro S-200 or 620 snowblower. The kits for them are cheap on fleabay, but the problem like you have with yours is that seat for the needle is wrong in the kits. It's that rubber plug thing. I don't know why they do that, but you'll need to either punch a hole in it or reuse the old one.

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Justin Case says:

    The diaphragm carb will be difficult to idle .. as the the vibrations drop, so does the fuel metering .. also, thus the delay speeding up too …

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Ion Pascu says:

    i think if you put a small spacer in between the two rear disks to make it feet the larger belt it will be a lot better, the belt normally goes almost all the way up on the clutch but in this case is like half way so the belt is too thin for it, the spacer will only take the spring presure at the very end so it will still grip all the way

  15. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Charlie says:

    My dad taught me how to do gaskets that way, when I was drag racing I always had gasket material in my tool box, one day a guy needed a gasket for his thermostat and I made him one. Most of the guys in the pits had never seen it done, they all tried to cut it out with a knife

  16. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Rickard Johnson says:

    Theme today Pullcord…. Maybe take the pull cord housing off and use a Battery operated drill to crank it, I know that you wanted to show what it would like to be on the trail but you only have to show it a couple of times. You have enough things to go through then having to pull that dam cord. By the way I love what your doing and I appreciate it Thanks….. Ricky from Cape May

  17. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars W.Ned Dusharm says:

    Smallville that spring that you have in the back of that green one, I think they're supposed to be a turn-on that

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